eldavo69

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Posts posted by eldavo69


  1. I had a day off and some time to spare so decided to fit some bumper mesh to protect the radiators and aircon condensers. 

     

    Due to their location they get stuffed up with leaves and dirt and rot out - the previous owner had replaced the aircon condensers for this exact reason - so I figured it made sense to whip the bumper off, give everything a clean out and fit some mesh to the back of the bumper. 

    ZunSport makes a kit that just clips in from the front of the bumper but it’s about £160 and sticks out like a particularly ugly sore thumb. Far more subtle if you put some mesh in behind the bumper - and far cheaper, less than £30 all in for the bits. There are thick black plastic tabs around the cutouts that you can screw into without fear of damaging the actual bumper so it was a relatively quick and straightforward job! Took the opportunity to remove the front arch liners and clean them up and everything behind too - then even some trim gel on the air ducts you’ll never see - just because.

     

     

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  2. Removed the fuel rail, distributor, drive belt and cam tower, replaced the gasket with a standard one and buttoned it all back up. Found a slight coolant leak from one of my new hoses too, replaced the jubilee clip and all sorted. 

    Still running like crap, with massive oil blow-by. Seems to be running on 3 cylinders which would explain the huge overfuelling if one injector is spunking all it’s fuel down the exhaust. Pulled the plugs, yup - plugs 1,2 and 3 and black and oily, plug 4 looks like it’s done nothing. 

    Compression tested all 4 cylinders and there is no compression on cylinder 4 - uh-oh. Best case scenario is a top-end rebuild/valve job, worst case (accounting for the oil blow-by) is knackered piston rings/damaged bore liner.

    Will take the head off in June and investigate then, that’ll give me a better idea of what to do next as well as give me choices of dropping the sump to remove the pistons or dropping the whole engine and doing a full rebuild on a stand (which sounds scary/expensive but also something I’d quite like to do - albeit planned for and in a couple of years)!

     

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  3. Also whipped the headlights out (looks drastic, takes about 30secs each side) and gave them a light polish with some AG glass polish and Menzerna Final Finish - not bad for 90k miles and 16 years!

    Gave it a quick wipe over and polish with AG SRP then some Chemical Guys Wet Mirror Finish that I had lying about - seems to bead well. Needs a full machine polish and some Gtechniq but that can wait. 

    Also added a rubber EZ-lip to the bottom of the front bumper the other week, looks good (in my eyes) and is obviously creating so much downforce I can park the car upside down now - these photo uploads, grrrr. 

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    1 person likes this

  4. I’m off to the Nürburgring at the end of the week, so thought I’d give the car a going over. Since fitting the spacers I’d had a little bit of steering wheel vibration at motorway speeds so I pulled the front wheels off and wire brushed all the mating surfaces as there was a bit of crud on them - now sat perfectly true (got the micrometer out) so hopefully solved. 

    Of course, with the wheels off it seemed daft not to give them a proper clean, de-tar, polish and sealed with Gtechniq and popped some new centre caps in (crests to the valves of course) as the old ones had gone a darker colour. Gave all the arches a clean up while I was in there and put some cavity wax on any exposed metal. 

    Then on to the rears, same drill on the wheels but also removed the arch liners (3 10mm plastic nuts and pull) and cleaned the muck off the back of them. There are plastic rear sill trims on either side too and one wasn’t flush at the leading edge. This could mean it’s bent, full of crud or hiding a load of rust so that had to come off too. 

    The metalwork was in perfect condition underneath, the trim was just a bit bent. There was quite a lot of dusty dirt in the back of the trim and when wet this would be sat against the metal at the end of the sill so well worth removing these for a clean out annually (I’m looking at you Patently). And then (because it’s me and the Mrs and Child were STILL at the MetroCentre) I cavity waxed all the rear arch and back of the sill before refitting the liners and plastics. 

    I was just about to put the last wheel back on when the ice cream van stopped at the end of my drive, and then the rest of the family got home 10mins later - perfect timing!

    *bloody picture uploads, that’s one way to make sure your ice cream doesn’t drip onto your hand!

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  5. 13 hours ago, Andrew said:

    Time flies! My M3 is now 10 years old. I still think of it as a new car ... !! 

    Is it still on “delivery mileage” or have you used it?

    3 people like this

  6. 4 hours ago, Riz said:

    M3 Competition Test Drive booked for Sat folks! :o will let you know if I wrap it around a tree etc ;)

    Who remembers when TwinSpark test drove a Honda S2000?

    (Before ultimately buying a Boxster with the wrong engine and wrong transmission)

    2 people like this

  7. Managed to get the Bank Holiday afternoon all to myself so set about stripping the seats and centre console out of the car to fit the wiring looms I had already made up for retrofitting the heated seats. 

    The switches are supposed to go in the “batwing” just in front of the gearstick but I wasn’t keen on putting them there. I had considered getting rid of a couple of switch blanks on the “horseshoe” either side of the radio but eventually decided to put them where the rear window switches go on the cabrio. This is where they are on a 986 Boxster so I bought the Boxster parts so that the diagram orientation was correct. Those blanks annoy me more than any others so it seemed a good enough reason to get rid. 

    Install was slow but straightforward, running wiring looms down the sills and under the dashboard meant getting myself in some tricky positions upside down with not much room to work. 6 hours later everything was back together and working for when the weather no doubt goes freezing again shortly!

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  8. 3 hours ago, Rachel said:

    This is getting waaaay too serious...   Are you going to apply the same electrickery wizardry to the 996?

    Nope - 996 electronics are much more modern and happily do their own thing with a hot wire MAF. 

    This ECU would be overkill on a standard 944T but really supports the modifications I’ve made. 

    Annoyingly, the cam gasket I used is an uprated multi layer steel one but they sometimes have sealing issues. Am still having a small oil weep from one corner of the cam tower so will whip it back off and change to a standard gasket that I already have. 


  9. The service intervals on a Boxster are every 2 years, alternating between major and minor. The intervals on other things are every 4 years, 6 years and 12 years. 

    Our Boxster is 12 this year therefore we had the perfect storm of the 2, 4, 6 and 12 year service items all arriving together - add in the waterpump and a couple of “while you’re in there jobs” and you get a £1000+ bill. 

    All things considered, given that it will only need an interim oil service in 2 years that’s not bad going - makes you question how many “cheap” Boxsters are getting maintained the way they should be. 


  10. Oh yes - this sounds nice, best way to describe it is a harder edge to the exhaust note under load. No resonance, no drone - I’ve been advised to get a remap to bring everything together, will need to do my research on that as the benefits on a NA engine are slight. 

    Had a wheel alignment done gratis too - a couple of tweaks to bring it into line after fitting the spacers and some potholes.

    £100’s worth of Titanium studs, bolts and washers with £20’s worth of K-nuts. 

     

     

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  11. Back together and running like a dog - supper rich and constantly on the edge of a misfire. 

    Borrowed a Smoke Tester from my Porsche Indy’s - it generates a harmless smoke and you hook it up to an airline to pressurise the system to find leaks in the intake and vacuum system. Handily I have a compressor tucked away in the garage and a retractable air line on the wall - naturally. 

    Found a split hose under the throttle body and a leaking vacuum manifold - both now sorted and running improved a bit. 

    Pulled the plug leads and they weren’t in great condition, fitted some new Bosch plugs and new Beru leads and everything “seems” ok now - needs a decent run out to test it, then an MOT. 

    Opened up the ECU and made a couple of changes to enable the boost gauge on the dashboard, need to add a switch into the case to toggle between Bluetooth connection for the Head Unit and wired for the laptop as the Bluetooth is a bit flakey and drops out every now and then - not ideal when tuning and burning the config file to the ECU!!!

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  12. Boxster is going in for a service when the 911 is finished this week (pick one up, drop one off) and it’s bloody typical that it’s got a problem. 

    Noticed a graunchy sound under low load that went with a dip of the clutch or a bit of throttle - thought it was the gearbox!

    Got under the car with it running and the sound is coming from the waterpump area, there’s also a slight coolant leak and the coolant level has dropped - pretty conclusive then! Spoke to the garage who laughed and said “they all do that eventually,” then told me they keep 5 waterpumps on the shelf at any one time it’s that common. Sounds like the cost of the service has jumped a couple of hundred quid - but apart from that it’s absolutely spot on and has needed nothing.

    Interestingly - having disconnected the battery for a while while doing the door card (with my head right next to the airbag), the heated seats now don’t work. Apparently if the battery is disconnected too long then they lose the coding and have to be redone via the OBD, garage will re-enable them for nowt while the car is in there but there are stories of Porsche charging up to £100 for the privilege, worth remembering. 


  13. Dropped the car off yesterday for the manifolds to be fitted. 

    All the titanium hardware had just arrived too. It’s nice and light - predictably. It shouldn’t resemble Spongebob’s Door Knocker after 5 minutes either! 

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  14. 14 hours ago, patently said:

    Be a good chap and nip down here to show me.  Ta +++

    Actually . . .

    I may have all the spare bits to do another one and am down at the office in a month. If you’re about it’s a quick job and then we can go to that dodgy non-vat registered Thai place again.

     

    2 people like this

  15. New header tank and hoses fitted, I rationalised the air intake pipework a little to remove an extra couple of joins. Filter now sits in the space between the bumper and the wing hidden behind the arch liner receiving nice cold air. 

    Everything fully reassembled and the final flourish is a new distributor sticker - what you didn’t think I’d remove all those bits without cleaning and painting them did you?

    I have a new intercooler pipe sticker too, so will be fitting that when I’ve painted the pipe as it looks a bit scraggy next to everything else now. 

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  16. I’d noticed a slight blow from the exhaust manifold too, with the cam tower off access to the manifolds was “easier”. I say that as you have to double-nut the studs and remove them from the head as there isn’t enough room to get the manifolds off in situ. If s stud breaks then you have to remove the cylinder head and get s machine shop to get it out due to the lack of access. 

    Luckily (or probably due to the oil leak) all the studs came off no problem in 15 mins - the six bolts holding the bottom of the manifold to the crossover pipe took me a further hour to remove, access was tight and they needed 2 grunts of effort to free off. 

    Manifold off, problem was clear to see, one inlet was cracked and the other had actually broken!

    Dropped it off at a local Exhaust Repair Specialist to be welded up as it’s made of Inconel Alloy - no such thing as cost savings in the 80’s it would seem, Porsche were a proper engineering firm back then. 

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  17. I got the car back a couple of weeks ago and it’s been busy busy since then. A few snagging jobs that it’ll have to go back to the body shop for but until then the main focus was in getting it started. 

    Starter motor was making a horrible noise and turning over slowly so I removed that - it’s at the very bottom and back of the engine, an easy job of it wasn’t for all the heatshields in the way. Took it to the guy who refurbed my alternator, he stripped it down re-lubed it and reassembled it for no charge. It’s running faster and quieter now, the horrible noise was a copper washer I had dropped down the back of the flywheel when doing the reference sensor gaps and it was just bouncing around a bit - oops!

    Chucked some new spark plugs in and it fired into life, although still super rich (AFR around 10 for those who understand such stuff). It’s been said that these cars and engines don’t like being stood around a while, I guess that’s true as oil was dripping from the cam gasket seal onto the exhaust manifolds and billowing white smoke. 

    Fuel rail off, distributor off, timing belt covers and timing belt off, then remove cam tower trying not to drop the hydraulic lifters everywhere - a couple of hours later and it looked like this:

     

     

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  18. There is something called a Helmholz resonator built into the airbox- it’s basically a sealed enclosure that has an opening to the air inlet. As air passes across the opening it produces a tone in the same way as blowing across a bottle does, this tone is the opposite sound wave to low speed induction noise and therefore cancels out some of this for low speed drive-by noise reduction. 

    Removing the resonator and capping it off frees up a bit more induction noise but more importantly the resonator blocks off about 1/3rd of the air filter. The filter has already been replaced with a BMC one which is the usual supporting modification so it was a no brainer to remove the resonator, cap the hole and fit a replacement silicon inlet hose without the resonator outlet. 

    Total cost - £30, benefits - bit of induction growl and a useful 1/2 litre extra air in. 

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