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About DaveKG

  • Rank
    Fiat 500
  • Birthday 09/02/1983


  • Location
  • extra_3
    Vauxhall Astra SRi
  1. Outstanding results

    Good the hear the car is looking good mate!
  2. swirls and how do i remove them!!

    Just a quick note on the Menzerna S34A Power Gloss that was mentioned... Please be aware that this is a very aggressive compound and should be used with care and only when absolutely necessary (that is, only if a few hits of PO85RD3.01 Intensive Polish is getting no where...). It will leave its own micromarring, especially when being used by PC as it wasn't really designed for use on a DA machine, and the PC struggles to effectively break it down. So do follow up with a finer abrasive such as Final Finish PO106FF to remove this marring. Also, the older Menzerna products, of which S34A is one and PO91L is another, suffer from dusting and drying out - they are best used with a slow cutting method to keep the polish lubed so you can fully break the polish down. Personally, I would kick off on a test spot by trying PO106FF Final Finish thoroughly worked, as if the swirls are light, chances are this is all it'll need even on harder paints. I have achieved excellent correction on hard paints with PO106FF alone when thoroughly worked. If the PO106FF doesn't remove the swilrs on the test spot, step up to PO85RD3.01 Intensive Polish and I would be surprised if this doesn't get you anywhere... Only if the IP really isn't getting you anywhere, step up to S34A Power Gloss on a 4" cutting pad, and follow with the 106FF.
  3. help needed with choice of clay

    For your first time using a clay, you are looking for a mild clay that is easy to use. Most cars only require a fiarly mild clay anyway unless they are exposed to extreme conditions, like being parked at the end of an airport runway where industrial fallout can be severe. If you are looking for an OTC clay, you only really have one choice and thats Meguiars QuikClay. Easy to use, mild clay that is very effective and comes with its own bottle of lube to use with it (quick detailer). If you dont mind sending off for a clay, I personally find the Meguiars Mirror Glaze Mild Clay to be a little better, or the Sonus Ultrafine Green Clay. Some tips for using clay: First and foremost, make sure the area of paint you are claying is well lubed with the quick detailer. Spray both the paint and the clay itself. Keep the clay warm and malable. If the clay gets cold, it will go brittle, and wont be anywhere near as effective as well as risking marring your paint finish. What I generally do is cut the clay bar into three or four, and use two pieces in rotation: one piece I keep in a cup of warm water to keep it warm, the other I use and I swap over periodically. Regularly fold the dirty side of the clay in (like folding paper) to reveal a clean side. Take your time and only use finger light pressure.
  4. pics from the ace cafe porsche meet tonight

    Cracking pics there Nathan, looks like a good meet.
  5. A Retorical Question...

    [ QUOTE ] As a rule we always get our orders out the same day if physically possible, the customers really appreciate it! [/ QUOTE ] That we do, Alex - the Bilt Hamber Autobalm arrived very promptly thank you!
  6. Super Resin Polish

    [ QUOTE ] Im due to pick the car up Saturday from the dealer - they have 'machine poliched' it so should I bother with DRP at all or just go straight for a pure wax??? [/ QUOTE ] Oh oh! The dealership have machine polished it for you? This may not be a bad thing, but many dealership machine polish jobs that I have seen have been dreadful, with cars coming out covered in holograms... Personally, I would have the SRP on hand.
  7. Super Resin Polish

    Remember that the SRP is actually an all-in-one product - as well as being a very very lightly abrasive polish (the main defect correction it achieves is through the fillers it is packed with), it also lays down a thin layer of acryllic sealent. This will offer some protection to the finish, but durability of it is not great. Which Zymol wax is it that you have? If it is the one from Halfords (liquid in a bottle as opposed to a paste), then this is actually a cleaner wax which will act to remove some or all of the SRP sealent layer and possibly some of the fillers as well... If you can, top the SRP off with a "pure wax", ie a product which is simply a wax for protection rather than a dual cleaner and wax. Something like Meguiars #16 works very well, or Collinite 476S for the best in durability from a wax.
  8. which shampoo?

    Meguiars Shampoo Plus for me. Super slick wash solution, you can get loads of suds from it too if you like suds (I dont personally - lubricity is the key to a safe and effective wash). Has optical brighteners like Megs Gold Class wash to leave a nice bright and clean finish, and rinses freely. Comes in gallon sizes which makes it excellent value. I have used loads of shampoos from Megs, Poorboys, Pinnacle etc but always come back to Shampoo Plus simply because it does what it says on the bottle very very well and is great value for money.
  9. Drying Towels

    Is it by chance a Meguiars Water Magnet you have? If so, I have also found that these loose there effectiveness with use, become hard and smear the water around rather than absorbing. Also, at this stage, they can marr paint. By contrast, my Pakshak and Sonus waffleweaves are lasting very well and are showing signs of "going off" like my Megs ones have... I cannot explain why the Megs towels I have have done this - they are washed and used in exactly the same way as the others, but if its Megs Water Magnets you have, your aren't the only ones...
  10. Paintwork Swirl Removal : A Guide

    Bird lime can etch into the clearcoat, and is similar in many respects to scratchesm just over a wider area... If you can feel the etching with your finger nails then you will struggle to remove it, however, it ifs mild etching then you wull be fine... Actual staining of paint can be removed using a chemical cleanser. G3 is a pretty aggressive polish - its a standard compound, and when applied by machine is capablt of removing severe swirls... Ensure you thoroughly work this product and it will deliver good results.
  11. Annoying Rattle

    I had a rattle coming from the rear of my Astra, and it turned out to be the little locking screw that keeps the spare wheel in place had come off and was rattling around the wheel well, so check this as well while your in the boot. When I got my first car, a seven year old Astra Mk3, it had a few interior rattles and I spent the day in the garage going round and tightening every screw I could find on the inside (eg under the door arm rests, inside glove box...) and that certainly quietened things down.
  12. Porter Cable 7424 - Starters' Guide

    I dont personally as I find it easier using microfibres. You can do this though, with a microfibre bonnet wrapped over a cutting pad to remove product residues using the PC.
  13. Paintwork Swirl Removal : A Guide

    A product like Ultra Deep Shine achieves the vast majority of its defect correction by filling swilrs to mak them. Autoglym Super Resin Polish contains very mild abrasives, but its the fillers in the product that do most of the work, however by hand this is an effective way of dealing with swirls. Also, on cars where the paint is very thin and machine polishing with abrasives is just not possible, then filling swirls with these products is a good option. If you are keen to remove swirls rather than mask them, my first port of call would be Meguiars ScratchX.
  14. So what Car Wax do you recommend?

    [ QUOTE ] [ QUOTE ] Collinite Marque D'Elegance for me. [/ QUOTE ]Thats the same as the 915 is use correct? [/ QUOTE ] Yep, exactly the same.
  15. In this thread I aim to present some general guidance tips for people who have recently bought a Porter Cable 7424 and describe the machine a little! <u>The Porter Cable 7424</u> Browsing this forum, you cannot help but notice that the PC7424 is extremely popular. It is a dual-action polisher that is safe to use and can remove paint defects to help you achieve that sought after swirl free finish. Its a popular tool owing to hte dual-action nature which makes it very safe to use, much safer than a rotary in the hands of a novice. Yet swirl removal is still possible with it, so you come close to getting the best of both worlds! The tool in all its glory: <u>What Is A "Dual-Action" Polisher</u> Dual-action describes the way that the pad moves with the polisher, and the dual-action nature is what makes the Porter Cable 7424 (and 7335) a speical tool. Shown in the diagram is the difference between a conventional rotary polisher and a dual-action polisher: The conventional rotary pad spins on a single axis, forming a circular orbit of constant radius. This nature makes the rotary quite an agressive tool with the ability to cut paint quickly - while this makes it more effective at swirl removal, it also makes paint damage a real possibility in the hands of a novice. The dual-action pad not only spins, but it oscillates as well developping random orbits, with varying elliptical orbits. This makes the cutting action much less aggressive and much safer for novices to use. The motion very closely mimicks hand polishing, only the 7424 can oscillate up to 6000 times a minute, which is completely impossible by hand!! This fast oscillation generates much more heat than by hand to more effectively break products down and cut into the paint. <u>So Many Polishes - Which to Choose??</u> Once you have you're PC, you are confronted with a daunting array of polishes from a wide variety of manufacturers. At the end of the day, all of these products can be summed up into groups that carry out certain tasks: <u>Compounds</u> These are the most aggressive cutting polishes and are generally applied by rotary polisher to deal with severe swirl marks and scratches. You can use a compound on a PC but it requires a 4" pad to generate enough heat to effectively break the product down. Examples of compound: Menzerna Power Gloss Compound, Poorboys SSR3. Only choose a compound if your paint has very severe swirl marks and the cutting polish is proving unsuccessful in dealing with them. <u>Cutting Polishes</u> These are medium abbrassive polishes that are designed for the removal of medium swirl marks in paint. They can be applied on a 6" pad, or for extra cutting ability, a 4" pad. Only choose a cutting polish if the swirls in your paint are too severe to be removed by a light cutting polish. Examples of cutting polishes are: Menzerna Intensive Polish, Poorboys SSR2.5, Meguiars #83. <u>Light Cutting Polish / Finishing Polish</u> These are light abbrassive polishes that are designed for finishing - ie use after a more aggressive polish or compound to remove any marring that may have been left by the more aggressive product and to restore surface gloss. The can be applied on a 6" pad. Examples of light cutting polishes are: Poorboys SSR1, Meguiars #80. <u>Glazes</u> These are essentially moisturisers for paint! They add paint oils to replace depleted oil and to wetten the shine and deepen the colour and are a highly recommended part of the detailing process. Examples of glazes are: Menzerna Finishing Touch Glaze, Meguiars #7. For further information on which polishes to choose for swirl removal, see also this thread: http://www.detailingworld.co.uk/showthread.php?t=4536 <u>What Pads to Choose??</u> There are four main classes of pads available from manufacturers and these are colour coded so you know which pad is which. Alas, different manufacturers use different colour codes! The texture of the foam effects what the pad does - ie how much it cuts etc. Summarised in the table below is a breif guide to the uses of the classes of pad: If you are using Lake Country pads, the colour coding is as follows: Yellow = Cutting; Orange = Light Cutting; White = Polishing; Black = Finishing. If you are using Sonus DAS pads, the colour coding is as follows: Orange = Cutting; Green = Light Cutting; Blue = Polishing/Finishing If you are using Sonus SFX pads, the colour coding is as follows: Yellow = Cutting; White = Light Cutting; Blue = Polishing/Finishing If you are using Meguiars pads the colour coding is as follows: Burgandy = Cutting; Yellow = Light Cutting/Polishing; Beige = Finishing For further information of which pads to choose for a specific task, have a look at this thread: http://www.detailingworld.co.uk/showthread.php?t=4536 Note that the above table is intended as a starters guidance only, and over time you will find out which pad and product combinations that you like best! <u>Setting Up The PC7424 For Use</u> Getting ready to use the Porter Cable... If you turn the Porter Cable upside down, you will see the following: Make sure that if you are planning to use 4" pads that you have the counter-weight for 5" pads fitted. Some pCs are now being supplied with a 6" counter-weight which will make the machine very hard to control with a 4" pad fitted. 5" counter-weights are available from http://www.polishedbliss.co.uk if required. First off, choose the correct backing plate for the pad you intend to use - 3.5" backing plate for a 4" pad, 5" or 6" backing plate for a 6" pad: First off, fit the backing plate to the Porter Cable. Using the flat spanner supplied with the machine, hold the centre nut as shown: Now, screw the plate into the thread in the middle of this centre nut while holding the nut still with the spanner to prevent it from spinning with the pad, and tighten the backing plate continuing to hold the centre nut with the spanner: The pads fit to the backing plate using a velcro (sometimes called "hook & loop") system so just stick the pad securely to the backing plate, trying to keep the plate in the centre of the pad area. Once the pad is fitted, you just need to plug the PC in and you're ready - make sure you use a transformer however!! Plug the transformer into the mains (230V) and plug the Porter Cable into the 110V output of the transformer: Never plug the PC straight into the mains, this will damage it irreperably! <u>Polishing with the PC7424</u> The key to successful polishing with the PC is to work on small areas, and take your time. What follows is a generic guide to polishing with the PC, as you work with the machine you will develop the technique that you feel most comfortable with, this is aimed at being a starting guide. To hold the PC, I like the place my right hand over the head of the PC and have my left hand at the back of the PC: This allows me to put pressure over the polishing pad while the PC is in use, and pressure is required to get decent swirl removal (but not too much, see later!) First off, apply the polish to the pad on the PC, in either an X (which stops three quarters of the way out from the centre) or a circle round the edge of the pad, about quarter of the way in from the edge. Next, with the machine switched off, smear this across a small area of about 2' x 2'. Make sure you can comfortably reach the hole area and that you are not stretching too far - the more comfortably you can reach areas the happier you'll be operating the tool. A small ladder is useful for doing the roof, especially if you're short! After spreading the polish, turn the machine on at about speed 3. Do a single fast pass with light pressure over the pad to further spread the polish out. Then turn the machine up to speed 5, and make a single slow pass with pressure applied over the pad. Move the PC at around 2cm per second in either a fore and aft motion or a figure of eight motion, what ever you are most comfortable with providing you achieve even coverage. (I prefer a fore and aft motion). Next turn the machine up to full speed - speed 6 and make several slow passes with pressure applied over the pad until the polish begins to dust. At this point, switch off the machine and buff the residue away with a microfibre towel. If the residue resists easy buffing, a little spray of Quick Detailer spray on the mf towel should help remove the residue more easily. How much pressure?? - apply about 10 - 15lbs of pressure. To get an idea of what this feels like, you can get out the bathroom scales and puch down till it reads 10 - 15lbs plus the weight of the PC. Or, I much prefer the following: push down on the PC until you get a noticebale change in pitch from the machine and the pad stops visibly spinning, it is just oscillating. Then reduce the pressure ever so slightly so that the pad begins to spin again, and this amount of pressure is good. <u>Glazing with the PC7424</u> The PC can be used for other tasks than polishing. Glazing really benefits from using the PC as the extra speed of the PC over hand application works the oils in glazes nicely into the paint. I find the following process works well for applying glazes: Apply product to pad (as above for polishing, X or circle) and smear over a small area. Turn machine on at speed 3 and make one fast pass to spread the product more and then one slower pass to begin working the glaze into the paint. Then turn the machine up to speed 5 for two or three more slow passes. All with light pressure over the pad. Then buff off residue with an mf towel. <u>Applying Liquid Waxes & Sealents by PC7424</u> The PC can cut down the time taken and effort required in applying liquid waxes and sealents! Again, apply the product to the pad as the glazing or polishing stage above. Turn then machine onto speed 2 or 3 and move the PC slowly across the paintwork to spread the product evenly. Fast speeds are not required for this process. Always observe the manufacturers recommendarions for the time left for the product to cure before buffing off residue. <u>Applying Paste Waxes by PC7424</u> Even some paste waxes can be applied by the PC, though, many people prefer to apply these by hand. If you wish to apply by PC, follow the process for liquid waxes and sealents above. Most pastes waxes can be popped out of their containers, just rub the wax round the PC pad to charge the pads up, a but like buttering a piece of toast! Again observe the manufacturers guidelines for the length of time the product should be left to cure. And there we have it! If you've just bought a PC, I hope you find this guide helpful in getting started. You will develop your own methods with experience (for example the speeds you like, the pad and polish combos you like) which may differ from those here, what ever works for you, go for it! I hope you enjoy the tool that I consider to be one of the best detailing purchases I ever made!