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About Ady_E

  • Rank
    Ford Ka
  • Birthday 07/03/1970


  • Location
    Plymouth UK
  • Occupation
    Submarine Radio Engineer
  • Car Make
    Saab 9-3 2.0T Aero Convertable 05 fully loaded
  1. Hi all I have a Nearside Wing Mirror for an Audi A6. Its for the C6 late 2005 to 2007 plate. It's cover is black but can be resprayed. I bought it on eBay following a mishap with the garage door frame. I bought it in haste as I didn't want to miss out. I did a quick check on ETKA before purchase as it came off a 2005 A6. I later learned that it came from the later model (C6) so won't fit my 2000 C5. What can I say! I was having a bad day! The mirror looks good and I'm assured that it is electrically and mechanically sound but there's no glass. Replacement glass from stealer costs around £20. I bought for £50 + £10 p+p Will sell for £30 + £10 p+p or you can collect
  2. Yeah. I might be interested in the rest of the machine if someone else can make use of the monitor. What colour is the case? (Wife's only question :confused: )
  3. I take it you've checked all the fuses. Just a thought.
  4. Cold start problems

    Turn the power on without starting the engine, If you here a buzzing noise for a second or so, that's the fuel pump pressurising the fuel rail, so it's, at least, electrically sound. I'm sure this side of things work the same way for diesels as it does for petrol engines. (If I'm wrong, I'm sure someone will correct me. ) Because this is an 'intermitant' fault, it could just mean the garage (or someone else) may have unplugged it at some point in an effort to diagnose the ploblem. Fault finding by process of elimination if you like. Clear that code and see if it re-apears.
  5. Squeaking Steering Column

    Dolphin 26 Bravo
  6. Stereo replacement

    There is yes. Plenty. I fitted an Alpine to my A6 with Bose setup for rear speakers. Here's a list of issues you could face. 1. Facia adapter, but you already have that one covered (that's the easy one ). 2. Antenna amplifier, If your antenna has an amplifier you will need an adapter to provide power to it once you've removed the concert unit. It's basically a de-coupler that seperates the rf (Radio Frequency) for the radio receiver circuits and DC (Direct Current) used to power the aerial amp. 3. Bose amp harness adaptor, These interface your new stereo with the Bose amp. However, I ended up bypassing my bose amp completely because of loud thudding noises every time a button was pressed. Audi and Alpine couldn't help but once I bypassed it all was fine. 4. ISO harness adaptor, to interface the new stereo with the car. 5. Steering controls, you'll lose these unless you stereo manufacurer can provide another interface unit (which is expensive) I bought one, it didn't work, had it exchanged, that didn't work either so I sent it back for a £70 refund! Now I live without it. I found Nexxia Audio Solutions - Perfect Solutions for Quality Sound to be very helpful. They have guides to help you with what you'll need. You can also e-mail them. Prices are reasonable too. Good luck.
  7. If your throttle is electronically controlled, try checking the throttle body. The inside maybe coated with hardened oil causing it to stick shut causing idling problems and the loss of power when pulling away that you spoke of. (I had same problem). If your throttle is cable controlled, you should feel the pedel stick also but with electronic control you won't feel it because it's uses a servo system to control the position of the throttle valve. Overheating and fan problem could be a seperate issue but you seem to have had some good suggestions about that. Good luck Hope this helps.
  8. jump-starting problem

    Yeah, I thought you had to have the car running before connecting too. Few! I thought for a minute I had been doing wrong all these years. If you do have fault codes as a consequence of the jump start and don't have access to vag-com, you could always disconnect your battery for about half an hour or so. That should clear them. (doesn't work on airbag controller though)
  9. Central Locking - Security or Safety?

    Yeah, I didn't realise why it was doing it until I'd fixed it and it stopped. :confused:
  10. Central Locking - Security or Safety?

    OK I have changed the dodgy safe motors for the ones stated above. Physically, they fit like a glove but electrically, they are reverse polarised compared to the old ones. All this means is that you'll need to cut back the metal strips and solder wires to the motor and reverse them as shown in the picture. This ensures that the motor rotates in the correct direction otherwise the lock will 'safe' when you try to unlock the car! Not good! I have also learned that if there is a problem with the any of the central locking motors it can be heard when locking/unlocking the car. The controller has a second attempt at locking, safing, de-safing or unlocking if the first attempt fails. If, for example your car sounds like it is trying to lock itself twice (as mine was), it's your first indication that there's a problem. If the doors are locked it just means one or more lock has failed to safe (deadlock). £230 saved from the stealer's pocket!
  11. Hi all I'm getting this very annoying squeaking noise coming somewhere from the steering column. I've had the cowl off and had a look but can't seem to pin point its location. The intensity of the squeak does differ depending on the angle/position of the steering wheel so believe it to be coming from the universal joint at the bulkhead. This was backed up by other threads on this forum. I'm tempted to just go straight in grease guns blazing but don't want to make matters worse later on. Before I do does anyone have an idea of what can be done about it or what oil or grease should be used. Thanks
  12. Central Locking - Security or Safety?

    Like I said, dude...
  13. Central Locking - Security or Safety?

    OK. Point taken. I still beleive there to be potential hazard brought about by car manufactuers (not just Audi) putting security before safety. If readers want to ignore this possibility, however slim, that's up to them. The insight of how the lock assemblies work and possible repair solution still stands though. Some might have use for it.
  14. Central Locking - Security or Safety?

    Your absolutely right Dave. I wasn't concerned about my own situation as my dodgy locks both fail to safe. I do have a friend with a VW who has a door that occasionally fails to de-safe, and therefore unlock. It's this situation that can be potentially hazardous. An accident, by definition, is an unplanned and unforeseen event that leads to injury or damage to property or the environment. However, being a qualified Risk Assessor, in my experience, accidents are usually as a result of several errors combined together. Seldom is a accident caused as a result of a single error or 'failure'. No-one ever worries about how 'safe' their car is until it's too late to worry about it. But, perhaps they should be. In 2005 less than 200,000 cars where stolen while there were 258,000 casualties as a result of motor accidents in 2006. I don't want to be seen as a scare mongerer, I just don't want to hear that someone somewhere couldn't get their kids out of their burning motor because the doors wouldn't unlock following an accident! Extreme? Yes, but that is worse case. Ya never know maybe it'll be the car thief that'll be stuck in a burning motor unable to get out! lol Thanks for your input.