LostBok

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Everything posted by LostBok

  1. MMI early firmware issue

    probably better off checking on one of the Audi forums as TS is pretty light on Audi activity... In case you're still looking for an answer - I usually go to HazzyDayz for any Audi electronics purchases (https://www.hazzydayz.com/). Iif anybody can do the software update, then they can... and if they're offering to do the MMI replacement, then it can be done!
  2. A6 3.0TDI versus 3.0TFSI

    To reply to the original question about what the fuel consumption, etc is like.... I've always found the Audi TDI's very easy to get the quoted consumption figures and if you drive like a saint, SIGNIFICANTLY above those (most experience with the 1.9TDI and 2.5TDI 180PS, but some 2.0TDI and 3.0TDI too).... and even with fairly enthusiastic driving (some acceleration / high speed cruising) won't see you fall more than about 20% below those figures... In contrast, although it is certainly possible to get the quoted figures on the 3.0 TFSI, the mpg rating plummet with any enthusiastic acceleration or high speed cruising... The two cars that i've taken the most notes on in the last few year: my old A4 2.5TDI quattro, quoted as 35mpg, I used to get 34-35mpg normally, the odd 40mpg tank and very seldom below 32mpg. My 3.0 TFSI is also quoted at 35mpg, I have seen over 35mpg on a couple of long, very slow drives, but I seldom see over 32mpg average and I've had a few tanks averaging 22mpg, normally averaging around 27-29mpg.
  3. GTI on Vredestein Wintrac Extremes

    Unless it was completely dry roads and significantly above 10deg C, the winter tyre would outperform the normal tyre by a decent margin. My summer Toyo Proxes T1-R's are VERY good in the wet, by my Wintrac's are at least as good as them in current conditions (5-10deg C and damp): the rubber compound in normal tyres is designed to last on 50degC+ summer tarmac, so goes very hard and and loses traction below 10deg C. The winter tyre will still perform well above 10degC, but they advise changing them in summer as the sun will warm the tarmac significantly above the official temperature (which is only the air temp, in the shade) and this will increase tyre-wear... that said there are people using these year-round and although they say the rubber does get very soft in summer, they still get 15k+ per set (possibly due to the much deeper tread depth on winter tyres)... Quite the opposite: if more people were buying them, then the online suppliers would start supplying more winter tyres, so they wouldn't be the "special order" items that they were a few years ago... more competition and hence lower prices. Granted there would be a bit more admin with changing tyres over, but tyre shops are happy to keep your extra rims in storage as it keeps you coming back to them, so you're more likely to be a repeat customer with them. Not quite sure where you are in Hamps: but I was driving back and forth between Portmouth and North Surrey last year and it was pretty hairy, lots of snow and ice on the roads and that's including fairly big A-roads like the A3... and this week is due for another repeat of the weather we had in Dec... welcome to climate change... the UK is losing the North Atlantic drift, so less of that winter cloud to keep us warm. And I'm pretty sure it gets below 8-10deg C more than "every 10 years or so": winter tyres are significantly better on any cold roads, not just ice/snow. Agreed entirely: £50-£100 a corner for everybody to have winter tyres would be better than the council charging even more than the £2k a year in council tax that I already get charged for my little 2 bed place (which is sat on a residential area of mostly untreated roads!). Grit is okay, but largely wasted: it only works to -6degC, it's washed away as soon as it rains and a bit NSS statement, but it only covers the roads that ARE gritted - having the cars ready for it makes more sense...
  4. Newby - MFSW A4 S line

    Agreed - it doesn't do that - it is stupidly fiddly: you have to say "CD" - then hit the Source & Drives buttons - I've just about rememebred mine again now, but when I had the software updated on mine, it shuffled the menu's around so my the default button presses changed: used to be a very easy "top right" - "top right".... Sad to hear they didn't bother fixing that on the latest update: I can understand why MP3 wasn't at the forefront of the designers thoughts, but you'd think they'd realise it needed fixing by 2010! I assume the MMI is better? My dad doesn't have the phone prep in his A6, so I've not had a chance to try out the SDS on an MMI system.
  5. Xenon lights

    Just read my post and Paul's again... a full beam Xenon that blocks off the highbeam part to make a "dipped" beam is legal, it is NOT THE SAME as turning off the dipped beam light: when it unmasks the highbeam component, it does not change the dipped beam, it simply opens up a high-beam: so yes, if it did change the dipped beam, it would be illegal, the factory fitted ones do not do this, so they are fine. OEM factory fitted lights wether dipped beam Xenon / "Bi"-Xenon are legal in every guise I've seen them so far. Retro fitted Xenon's without auto-levelling and washers and lights set to run high-beams without dipped beams are not legal: that said, you'd probably get away with correctly adjusted Halogen "projector" headlight units retro-fitted with Xenons for a fair while, but the insurance companies are within their rights to invalidate your insurance if they inspect the car post accident. And if you're running "reflector" style headlight units with Xenon's you're pretty silly: you will get caught because they be identified at >100metres as illegally retrofitted items due to the beam pattern and they're pretty dangerous to other road users. Don't worry Dave: if you've got factory fitted Xenon/Bi-Xenons you're fine and I'm sure they'll update the website the next time they change the law.
  6. Newby - MFSW A4 S line

    It doesn't, but if he's getting the OEM phone kit, then the SDS High conversion is pretty simple (or cheap) and he can do all of that via voice controls. 1) OEM Audi kits work with all Nokias (that I know of) and very well (fast sync speed) with the iPhone, but struggled to sync the phonebook with my HTP Touch (although the basic phone function still worked), but I normally just use a Nokia 6700 now as battery life is a priority, which works beautifully. 2) most people refer to the "DIS" as the screen itself, and "Full DIS" is the toggle and button on the stalk which gives you the extra info (avg mpg, etc).
  7. Xenon lights

    Erm... that was a direct quote for the UK DfT website, so I'm pretty sur that that is the law in the UK (check the link), only comments I put were in [] brakcets... not me saying it: if you're in the UK and you have a car that is configured to turn off the dipped-beam when it switches the high-beams on, then it is illegal. "Bi"-Xenon (where the Xenon bulb is the dipped & high beam) is NOT the same as having a car that switches off the lower part of the headlight pattern when the highbeams are showing: it's probably easier to think of mirror-system "Bi"-Xenons as permanent Full pattern lights (dipped and high beams) and there is a screen/mirror that gives it a safer dipped beam pattern when that is required... when you switch to highbeams you don't lose any light from the foreground, which is what that law is preventing (why you would want that is beyond anybody's guess, but I can only imagine somebody tried it once and now there is a law against it).
  8. GTI on Vredestein Wintrac Extremes

    Granted: most of the winter, the UK is just wet, but given the rubber hardens up and Summer tyres start struggling on anything below about 6degC, I'd have to agree. In the last few weeks, the fact I have Winter tyres is the only reason I've avoided several accidents: the two worse ones were 4x4 cars on summer tyres: a Volve XC70 and a Rangey because they couldn't control themselves on obviously VERY VERY icey roads: in both cases, if I hadn't been able to stop, then accellerate (in one case backwards) very quickly, I would have had a decent amount of damage to my car and all the inconvenience associated, just because people were driving in vehicles that were not adequately equipped for the road they were driving on. In the case of the XC70, he hit the curb next to where I had been reasonably hard (and sideways), so I'm guessing he might be getting winter tyres when he goes to replace his two alloys and get his wheel allignment sorted out. If your car doesn't have proper winter tyres on it, you should NOT be allowed onto the road at any temperatures where ice is likely: they could have a website / phone number / nightly weather report as to wether you are allowed to drive in each area on non-winter equipped vehicles - it's just inconsiderate to other road users if you're driving around in a car that's not able to stop / turn properly. Look at it this way: if you went out in dry weather in a car that only had a drum hand-brake (rear wheels only) and no front brakes at all: with and all the associated handling and stopping characteristics, then you'd get prosecuted.... and you're in a worse position regarding stopping mid corner or at a junction if you're driving on ice using the wrong tyres!
  9. Xenon lights

    apols - I don't know the "DoT" regs in the USA, but for the UK (DfT) the rules are pretty clear (I believe they are based on the EU laws): (DfT site LINK) So if anybody who has fitted or drives a car with an aftermarket kit that does not have the correct lense type, auto-levelling and washers is breaking the law - if you have the proejctor lenses, then you're unlikely to get caught, but if you're involved in any sor tof accident, then you're not going to have a leg to stand on - i.e. your your car will be completely uninsured becuase it has been illegally modified. More likely to get caught out by an insurance company than the cops. I have some sympathy for people who have retro-fitted HID's into cars with projctor lense and get caught: if they're correctly adjusted and clean, then they shouldn't be causing any extra glare, but if you're driving a car with reflector lense (e.g. Mk3 Golf, that Renault in the video, etc), then (1) you're very, very likely to get caught and (2) I have zero sympathy becuase that setup will be dazzling people everywhere you go (which will most likely just be to your local McD's car park or up and down Romford Highstreet).
  10. 3.0 Tdi avant

    It was massively overhauled (and made bout 30% more efficient) sometime around Oct 2008, so the latest varient has only bee around for about 14 months... I think they gave them the "TDV" tag... the TDIe are the super-efficient versions that definitely have the stop-start technology, but those are only around in 2.0TDI, not sure if the TDV version does the stop-start stuff.
  11. Xenon lights

    Agreed - DOT requirements are that you have headlight washers and auto-levelling, so i'm not sure how they're claiming that those are fully road-legal. That said: I've had a few bits of work done by that company now and they are very good and very open about when they are using OEM components or 3rd party alternatives and they will give you the option (and an alternative price) where they have a choice. Agreed: a proper Xenon retro-fit for an A4 would be a LOT more: I think the headlight units are about €300 each, plus bulbs (€150 per Xenon alone!), the top bumper is £300 and no idea how much the headlight washers would be, but just the lifting nozzles are about €60 each...
  12. Winter tyres maybe worth investing.

    Granted: a PROPER off-roader (i.e. Defender) is going to be better than any other combo once it's equipped with the right tyres: but a friend of mine who has a Mk2 Shorty in deepst darkest Surrey reckons although there's never any fear about getting stuck in the snow, "fear" is the operative word when you get near any compacted snow or ice; he reckon's he's got less chance of sliding across juctions or spinning out in his (summer-tyre-shod) BMW 330d... and that Landy is on deep-tread Army-spec off-road tyres.
  13. Winter tyres maybe worth investing.

    Agreed - I have a front splitter that's being "straightened" on my workbench to proove that they're no good for that....
  14. Winter tyres maybe worth investing.

    Forgot to mention before (and have been prompted via PM): The "winter" wheels I'm using are the OEM "Avus Silver" Audi Sport 16's that came with the car: they're 16", 7J, ET45, PCD 5x112 with Vredestein Wintrac Xtremes (215/55/16). And my "summer" wheels are OEM S4 "AvusIII" wheels: 18", 8J, ET45, PCD 5x112 with Toyo Proxes T1-R's (235/40/18). I'd recommend going the 16" route as it seems more manufacturers do higher profile verison of winter tyres: if you're looking for 19" 35 profile "winter" tyres, then you essentially have Sottozero's and nothing else...
  15. Winter tyres maybe worth investing.

    Sorry to rain on your parade, but the Sportrac's aren't "Winter" tyres - they're not even all Season: they're out and out summer tyres... There is a significant difference between Summer - All Weather - Winter and Studded tyres... granted that the Winter versions will not perform quite as well as fully studded tyres on ice, but the advantage is that you can drive on normal roads and at motorway speeds using them. I have friends that live in Switzerland and they swap their tyres over every year (legal requirement) and when we were driving around the Alps in a little Citroen Estate, I was stunned at the car's ability to stop quickly on smooth ice and even hill-starts when loaded up with 5 people and luggage wasn't a problem at all! The idea of "Winter" tyres is that the Rubber has special properties that will allow it to stay supple enough to be able to release ice and snow from the tracks and the newer generation ones have special fragments in the rubber than are supposed to act like mini-spikes (not that you'd know it to touch the tyres). But I'm not a tyre specialist: there's a few websites that get into the technical detials of it all: e.g. TireRack.com) I started driving this winter on my Toyo Proxes T1-R's and was amazed at the Quattro's ability to get me moving forwards very effectively, but braking was severely impaired on ice / snow and steering was more hover-craft than car when the ice was smooth. When the December predictions of heavy snow came along, I decided to buy some Wintrac Xtremes and chuck them on my original (16" Audi Sport alloys). Best decision ever!!! The only time I see even a blink from the traction control is in I'm accellerating HARD out of a solidly iced side-road or on ramp.... aside from that, the car behaves impecably, even on glass-smooth ice! You can get the car to start to break traction iff you turn the traction control off and accelerate too hard and you will still get a "shudder" from the ABS when braking to a stop, so they're not working complete miracles, but they really do improve grip significantly. Come late Feb / March I'll put my 18" AvusIII's back on (nicely cleaned) and I will have saved myself from some silly fender-benders and protected my nice 18" alloys edit: When looking around at other options, the Avon Ice Touring came highly recommended. And I gathered that Pirelli Sottozero were prone to excessive wear at "marginal" temps (0-10 deg C), but my local tyre place said the only winter tyres they normally fitted were the Vredestein Wintrac's and I'd seen some decent reviews on those too... also - have a look on YouTube and also some Canadian / American websites (e.g. TireRack.com) as there are a lot of reviews and tests there, including a whole series of showing the differences in accellerating, stopping and handling on snow and ice using various ice tyres. edi2: remember - just ;'cos you have grip, doesn't make you invincible: 1) other people are still tryign to drive on the ice with "summer" / "all-season" tyres, so they're still slipping around (I've have to swerve to avoid a few stupid Range Rover drivers that seem to think that 4x4 + seat warmers = the "ice handling package", and have come sliding back down the slope they've just tried to tackle). 2) It is still a car and only has that much ground clearance: I was driving on solid ice with 2ft of snow on top over the weeknd and hence why my Cupra-R splitter has now been taken off: it wasn't working well as a snow plough
  16. Xenon lights

    yep a 2005 Cabriolet is a B6 (just look at the kits for the 2000-2004 for the saloons and avants)... Try these guys: £185 for Xenon upgrades, incl fitting and 2 yr guarantee... EU legal and safety approved... Volkswagen & Audi - Xenon Lights
  17. I know it's an old thread, but I just searched on Google and TS and this was still popping up.... so here's a link: RNS-E Manual ver 11.04 and quick ref guide. Quick reference guide is actually from Audi!
  18. My subscription to the Enigma database for my Neo Snooper S4 is running out in a month and I figured that now would be a good time to upgrade to the latest SatNav and speed camera detection. I was thinking Indago or Syrius with one of the add-on Laser/Radar detectors. http://shop.instant-shop.com/Snooperdirect/product500186.html Any comments / recommendations??
  19. 6.5J on a Mk3?

    thanks for the tips guys - the MG/Rover alloys have gone up to half the price of 2nd hand BBS alloys, so I'm happy to double my budget and get something closer to the real thing... they really were just becoming too much of a compromise! Where's the best place to get a set of 16" 7J BBS RX's (or look-a-likes) to fit my 4-stud Mk3.... I've got 17" rims on there right now (w/205/40/17 rubber), so I'm replacing the tyres too, but I'm able to get decent tyres (either EagleF1's or Exalto's) VERY cheaply, so it's just the rims I'm after. Thanks 6deg - I'm after the cleaner BBS RX look, not the RX2 (split-rim, bolts, etc). Budget - for the rims only - hoping to keep it to under £200 if it's any sort of compromise and £300 if it's the real thing in decent condition - I've been VERY close on eBay a few times, including being offered a second-place on one mint set for £200 inc delivery, but then the first place guy came through and paid up
  20. 6.5J on a Mk3?

    I've been on a bit of a mission to get some 16" BBS RX alloys for my Mk3... only prob is that mine's a cabriolet, so it's the old 4x100 stud pattern... These are the ones... 'cos I'm after this look (sorry if it's your car - I found this online and cropped out the plates): Now dilema of all dilemas, I've found these MG alloys... 4x100 PCD ET44 offset - which sounds high, but they're 6.5J width. That means that they're wide enough to take the 205/45ZR16 tyres I was after and SHOULD fit fine as far as offset is concerned... http://www.1010tires.com/WheelOffsetCalculator.asp According to that calculator - I'll have 1mm less clearance on the inside edge and bit more (13mmmore) on the outside, but then the tyres are about .4" narrower than my current tyres according to the Toyo site: http://www.toyo.com/tires/tire_specsheet.cfm?id=20 (my current ones are 205/40ZR17) I was thinking if I put a small-ish spacer (maybe 4mm-5mm) to push the wheels out a shade, then I won't lose too much width on the track), but can anybody spot any problems with goign for the MG alloys?? cheers, LostBok
  21. Cam advice please?

    I've got a 2.0 8V Golf Cabriolet that I've already had slightly moddified (PiperX induction, Milltek cat-back and engine remap). It's been rolling roaded at AMD at 142bhp@5550rpm, 148lb/ft @3300rpm, pretty nice, smooth torque curve. I was wanting to find out wether people would recommend getting the camshaft changed and if so, what to go for. AMD are offering a "Shrick Camshaft", but provide no details on what sort of change should be expected from that. I'm very conscious that some wilder cams can leave the car just bleeding fuel and much lower in torque at low revs for the sake of lots of torque higher in the rev range and the ability to rev a lot higher. I don't want this. I'm looking for a cam that will keep the low-end grunt that makes the 8v so comfortable and relatively frugal to drive normally, but would like it to be able to rev a bit more freely and slightly higher up the rev range when I want it to. What are people experiences with cam changes in thw 2.0 8v and in particular the Shrick cam as offered by AMD? Any advice / info appreciated!
  22. I have a 1998 Mk3 Cab that currently has the standard 17cm front door speakers, dashboard tweeter, plus a 13cm teardrop grill with tweeter in the side panel. Looking to replace speakers, but NOT going for a boot-built / bass box setup. I have an Alpine headunit with a built in 4 x 60W RMS "V-drive" amp. Was considering: Either Pioneer 1700R and 1300R OR Alpine SPR-136A and SPR-176A. I have been told that since I'm not going for a separate sub, I would be better off getting co-ax speakers than component sets. But that I can still put a separate tweeter on the front speakers and mount that under the dash - using a bass-blocker. Not bothered about the rear tweeter since the tweeter is right next to the main speaker. Keeping this in mind, I was looking at the Pioneer TS-E1796 and TS-E1396, not sure what tweeter to go for / what would fit under the dash the easiest (budget £40 for tweeter) approx. Other dilema was that the TS-E1396 only has a nominal input rating of 35W - are there any 13cm co-ax speakers out there that will handle significantly more than this (the SPX-137R does 60W, but is SERIOUSLY expensive!). Budget around £200 for front, rear and tweeters. Can anybody recommend what I should be going for? Thanks!
  23. 911 Turbo Conv, SN04 *** + added bonus!!!

    seen a few around... not that impressed really.
  24. Cam advice please?

    shao - does this guy enjoy talking shop THAT much - 'cos I'm pretty unlikely to travel all the way up from SW London to North of Birmingham to get this done.
  25. Cam advice please?

    I've yet to find anybody who will give me any idea of the change in torque / bhp on the engine with a new, fairly mild (probably Schrick) cam. I'm not looking for concrete guarantees, just looking for a ballpark. If the engine nature is changed so that I suddenly get 180bhp @ 7000rpm, but the torque is <130lb/ft for the first 4000rpm, then the £800+VAT might be worth it for track days, but not for me.... on the flip side if it keeps the engine nature very much the same, sacrifices little / now low-end torque, but only bumps me up to 150bhp, even with the 2nd remap (included in the £800), then I'm also not sure if it's worth it.... What is a pessimistic / realistic / optimistic expectation? Like I said the car already has PiperX induction, Milltek Jet and it was remapped previously, but the remap was BEFORE those current mods. Currently putting out 142bhp @ 5550rpm, 148lb/ft @ 3300rpm. Any ideas / guestimates?