p_gliddon

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About p_gliddon

  • Rank
    Shank's Pony

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  • Location
    Southampton
  • Car Make
    Audi S3
  • extra_3
    Audi S3
  1. New A3 8l owner

    225/45/17 is the standard tyre size for an s3. Offest is to do with the wheel and not the tyre. Find the details of the standard s3 avus alloy and then choose any wheel with the same offset. (7.50Jx17H2 ET32 PCD 5x100)
  2. If the car is taking longer to warm up then it will need a new thermostat. Has it ever had one in the life of the car? Age or a waterpump failure can kill them. Located in behind the back of the alternator and make sure you disconnect the battery before replacing as the alternator is 'live'.
  3. Did you reset the ECU after you changed the MAF? Disconnect battery for 15mins to reset as this clears the ecu learning of settings for a failed MAF. After reconnecting switch on ignition and wait. Should hear a whining noise from the TB alignment. I think you are supposed to wait 5 mins but might want to check this. DV- yes you are in the right place. Large hose in the side of the black cylindrical unit and one out the base. Small vac hose in the top which controls the valve. Takes air from downstream of the turbo and returns it to the air pipe from the filter housing. Does your engine keep a constant temp?
  4. I replaced my DV recently with an OEM 710N one and it was somewhere between £20 and £30. If its never been replaced it is probably worn out anyhow. I'm not sure of the exact symptoms but the test i mentioned is fairly conclusive as to whether its working correctly. Have you had a look for split vacuum hoses. Try spraying carb cleaner with the engine running and see if there is a change in engine revs. If so prob a split. Hard plastic hose between the brake servo and the inlet manifold is a common one to split at joints. Feel around the outside of the plastic joint. Vacuum hoses under inlet manifold can be a cuplrit too. Could be coolant temp sensor? Do you have black or green one? Green one is the revised part. Google 'TTweakers guide'. A good pdf for diagnosing 1.8T engine problems... Next step would be try and get VAG COM and run some tests
  5. Audi a3 ABS light and air bag light

    It switches itself off when you have sorted the fault. It took me a few tries on my A4 to solve this problem and ended up using switch grease/lubricant on the contacts. They sell it for radio controlled cars so most hobby shops sell it. Prob exists in other forms too. A VAGCOM scan would tell you for definite that it is that connector.
  6. Did you replace the MAF or just clean it? Try disconnecting the MAF and see if the problem continues. Could try cleaning the throttle body as maybe that is sticking around the closed position? Have you checked if the diverter valve? Remove it, push the diaphragm up and finger over the small hole on top. When you release the diaphragm it should create a vacuum else it needs replacing. Part number ending 710N is the revised part so if you don't have this one it might be worth replacing anyhow. The DV affects the low boost so could be the cause.
  7. Audi a3 ABS light and air bag light

    A vagcom scan would tell you. - Airbag light is probably the connector under one or both of the front seats - Yellow connector i think. Take it apart and spray with electrical cleaner. - ABS light could be a failed brake light switch on the pedal. Simple to replace for less than £10. These are common parts to fail, otherwise maybe Yaw sensor or something else.
  8. Audi S3 1.8T common faults/ buying check list Hopefully it may be of use to have a list of common S3 faults in one place. Based on experience on my car that I’ve owned for 6 years and/or research through these forums. I've noticed a large number of these faults in the last couple of months hence I decided to write a list, feel free to add to it. Apologies for any inaccuracies in advance. Shocking how many common faults there are for an Audi… My car is an Audi s3 1999 8L, APY engine (pre facelift) 87k, 11 years old Part Common Fault Solution Age Mileage Window Clips Plastic clips that run up and down on regulator are prone to fatigue causing window to malfunction and not close. Replace with A6 metal clips 5 34k Waterpump Plastic impeller prone to failure causing overheating and damage to thermostat Replaced with metal pump, replace thermostat if overheating occurs 7.5 59k Concert Stereo volume EPROM memory is ‘write only’ memory which fills up every time volume is changed. When EPROM is full, every time volume is adjusted it will go silent or full volume Repaired by OE Electronics, Salisbury 7.7 62k Backup battery in Alarm Siren Siren battery stops holding charge which leads to car alarm going off. A sign is 3 beeps from the rear passenger side before siren continually sounds. Remove or replace alarm siren. Some have repaired this unit. 7.7 62k Heat shield for cat Bolts holding heat shield rust and break off causing a rattling exhaust noise Replace bolts 7.7 62k Front ARBs Plastic collars break off. These collars butt up to the mounting bush. Part from Audi has been updated. Replace entire ARB 8.7 73k Track rods ends and wishbone bushes Prone to wear out. Wishbone bushes crack. Replace part 8.7 73k Roof rail corrosion Sealant along weld line joining roof to quarter panel breaks down and allows water in and hence corrosion Respray both sides covered by warranty if less than 12 years old and not neglected 9.7 80k Brake Vacuum Hose Vacuum pipe connecting brake servo to inlet manifold uses a hard plastic which cracks at joints from heat cycling Replace part 10.7 86k Rear springs Rear springs corrode and then snap at the base Replace part 10.7 86k Diverter Valve Lumpy cold running and low boost problems. Test by removing, pushing diaphragm up then placing finger over vacuum tube on top. Diaphragm should stay put else needs replacing Replace with OEM P/N ending 710N 10.7 86k Brake light switch on pedal Prone to fail overtime. Throws a fault intermittent fault code and eventually brake lights stop working. Less common on facelift models Replace part 10.7 86k DIS dead pixels DIS pixels fail overtime 5 34k Glovebox lid hinges Hinges snap over time Replace glovebox lid. 9.7 80k MAF Rough running at idle, running rich, running lean, cold start problems, poor mpg Test 1 - Disconnect MAF and default MAF values will be used. Engine will run better if MAF is faulty. Test 2 - Log Block 002 using VAG COM. MAF values should be 0.8xengine BHP. Reset ECU with MAF changes Clean with electrical cleaner or replace MAF. Reset ECU. 10.8 87k Rear wash wipe Pump running but water not coming out of rear wash wipe Check jet is not blocked and then check pipe joins through the car by running pump and looking for leaks. Joint under the bonnet LH side tends to be first to come apart. 4 26k --------------------------------------------- Common Faults not yet had: Xenons pointing towards ground Sensors on nearside suspension front or rear can fail, or motors within headlight. If it’s the motor normally only one light is affected Replace sensor or headlight motor Rust along lower door trims Door panels rust behind lower trim Some have claimed on warranty Clutch pedal switch Causes car to over rev when the clutch pedal is depressed Replace switch Clutch pedal Plastic part of pedal prone to failure Coil Packs Early models used Hitachi coil packs and few failures. Hitachi packs replaced by bosch part which is prone to failure Replace part Venturi vacuum pump Can clog up with oil from the oil breather (this might only be on A3) Can be cleaned or replaced Breather / vacuum pipes Prone to failure overtime from heat cycling Replace affected pipe Clutch/ clutch slave cylinder & flywheel Clutch slave cylinders can fail, leaking fluid over clutch. Both slave cylinder and clutch require replacing if slave cylinder fails. If clutch goes maybe worth replacing slave cylinder at same time Thermostat Can fail with age or if waterpump impellers fail and engine overheats. Plastic impellers can travel round engine and get caught in thermostat preventing to open and close correctly. Temp gauge no longer sits bang on 90 deg. Coasting downhill tends to drop below 90. Replace part. Ensure battery is disconnected as thermostat is directly behind live connection on alternator Coolant Temperature Sensor Early models used a black sensor which are prone to failure. Uprated part is green. Causes poor running. Temp gauge become erratic, check values on block 011. Replace part. Open then close header tank to release pressure before changing. Door sensor microswitches Switches cause DIS to indicate door still open after it has been closed Microswitches need realigning Front Sus Top Mounts Top mounts wear out causing knocking noise Remove suspension, Replace part Oil dipstick Plastic outer of oil dipstick becomes brittle and cracks. Sometimes broken parts can fall into engine. Replace part Ignition Barrel Fail overtime Oil sump pick up pipe Pickup pipes can become blocked with grit like material. Thought to be worse on BAM engines or engines running longlife servicing. Drain oil, remove sump, clean oil breather pipe or replace (£12), reinstall using audi sump sealant. 3 bolts particularly difficult to reach Rear ARBs Same problem as front although less common, collars within bushes snap at the ends and entire ARB has to be replaced. Some have found ARB needs replacing after rear springs have been renewed Replace entire ARB Coolant Level Sensor Sensors can fail overtime and indicates low coolant on DIS. Cabling to the switch can come loose from plug Clean sensor or replace. Replacement involves whole new header tank Fuel Pump Relay The fuel pump relay is located under the driver’s side kick panel. Remove the lower panels to gain access to the relay box. When the fuel pump relay goes remove the lower panels to gain access to the relay box. When the fuel pump relay goes bad it will trigger many fault codes with electrical shorts to ground. The fuel pump relay is also used to turn on the injectors, and will show injector short to ground failures. If you open your door you hear the pump kick on, if the pump no longer kicks on, and you experience these codes repeatedly, replace the fuel pump relay.
  9. I'm guessing the waterpump went and so they then replaced both pump and timing belt. Should have been done after 60k or 4 years really so hopefully this was not the first timing belt on the car. If the waterpump had gone and you drove it the temp would shoot off the scale so I think you need a new thermostat. Hour long job at a garage and part is cheap so should be £80 quid to fix at a guess. It maybe that you have some of the impeller preventing the thermostat opening and closing properly. If you do this job yourself make sure you disconnect the battery first as you will be working near the 'live' terminal on the back of the alternator. I would avoid driving it until fixed. Post how you get on. Paul
  10. Yeah quite likely to be the water pump if it was the original. Plastic impellers had a tendancy to break up. Has the cambelt been done? Waterpump should have been done at the same time. When my waterpump had lost part of the impeller it sort of worked except made strange gurgling noises till it failed altogether and completly overheated If the waterpump failed previously and has been replaced then it is quite possible that the thermostat now needs replacing. Either the overheating from the pump failing damages them or the plastic impellers that break up can get caught in the thermostat. I think it'll be one of these.
  11. S3 Turbo lag or a problem?

    Just to close this thread - it was the MAF, put a new one in today and now MAF readings are twice what they were, peaking at around 165g/s. This equates to 78% of the engine original bhp which is about right I believe. Feels like i have a new car!
  12. S3 Turbo lag or a problem?

    Logged requested boost vs actual in the file attached. Anyone able to look at it and tell me whats wrong? Shows hard accel through all the gears. MAF readings peaking at 80 (expecting 140-150) and now when i disconnect the MAF its seems to cure the problem. Ordered a new MAF. Question is does this rule out a vacuum/boost leak? Thanks Paul
  13. S3 Turbo lag or a problem?

    Hi James, Yes it could be your clutch that is worn, they generally last for 80-120k miles. If it is an 8L chassis consider getting the clutch slave cylinder checked though as this could be leaking onto the clutch giving the same symptoms. They are known to fail. Whichever is causing the slip I would consider replacing both. This is far different to the problem described in this thread though. Regards Paul
  14. S3 Turbo lag or a problem?

    Hoping for some advice here on a 1999 APY S3 87k... Car seems to be running well unless I floor it in lower gears, 2nd or 3rd where this problem is really noticeable. Car pulls well in these gears except after about a couple of seconds or at higher revs (not sure if time based or rev based) there is a spike in power. I haven't really noticed it before (owned the car 6 years). Seems either like a low boost problem or turbo lag getting worse somehow. -No faults showing, -I've disconnected the MAF and that makes no difference, -just replaced the DV as the old one had died and this hasn't seemed to have made a noticeable change. The old one was definitely nackered and now have the uprate 710N one. Would have thought i should notice a difference with this?? Maybe the vacuum line to it not controlling it correctly? My thoughts are either checking the vacuum lines again or maybe a N75 issue. Read somewhere the N75 solenoid on the turbo does not always throw a fault and might be slow controlling the waste gate? If its the N75 are they a cheap easy fix or not? The only other part that I though it might be is the engine coolant temp sensor but monitoring this through the AC display it rises constantly up to 90 degrees. Not sure if this could cause the fault described. I still have the old style black sensor not the uprate green one. Another £30 i dont want to spend if it doesn't sure anything though! What else could I look at? Really appreciate any help. Thanks Paul
  15. Audi S3 8L 210 APY Brake Vacuum Hose repair

    Finally got a round to replacing the rear springs after a slight incident on a wet roundabout. Lift off oversteer took on a new meaning. Turns out both springs had snapped, and the left spring had snapped twice and was missing almost a full 360 of the coil. The spring on the right didn't look broken, only when i removed it did it fall apart. Handling much better needless to say, but also subtle improvements to the steering in a straight line. Before it felt like the tracking needed doing. 1999, 87k. Photo attached for your amusement.