Biscuits

Audio upgrade in E60 535d

467 posts in this topic

Sounds like bollocks to me.

If you are going to go down that route at least use soem decent amps and speakers.

For £3k I would want Genesis or Audison amps and Morel speakers, not Hertz!!

And to be honest offering a 10" sub over a pair of SWS-8s in the enclosures that are in the car, meaning the door sills just makes me think they know sod all.

Mark Tuner from TeamPioneer used an E90 for his system, the stock locations for the small subs are superb.

I would look for another installer.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Ric sorry but i agree with Gizze £3k for an audio upgrade sounds bollocks unless they are looking to install a new stereo setup with new wiring with new equaliser etc. But if it is just a speaker upgrade, amp etc then it is bollocks.

I have had an audio upgrade done to my BMW E60 and it sounds awesome, here is what i had done:

1. Hertz ESK163.3 components which included 6.5 subwoofers under seats, 4"door components and tweeters.- £200

2. Audison SRX5 multi channel amp - £150 (ebay)

3. 2 12" JL subwoofers in boot. £250

4. Factory stereo and sound still controlled by i-drive.

5. Cables etc and all fitted

Total cost was no where near £3k and sounds awesome, it cost me £700.

Talk to the guys at LM Audio (Google them)(speak to Lee and say Mukul recommended you) and if local to you allow them to do the install or give Gizze from this forum a shout, he knows his stuff but don't pay £3k to this audio installer, belive me it is a rip off. Out of curiosity which audio installer quoted u £3k.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi,

will the 2ohm version of the sws subs work in my standard hifi car with the tha-555 ?

please let me know

i ordered 4ohm ones and they sent 2 ohm

thanks in advance

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

They will work but you will have to wire them like this....

2SVC_2-ohm_mono.jpg

Where as with 4ohm subs you can wire them like this...

2SVC_4-ohm_mono.jpg

Or just wire both individually from teh sub out, which will also give a 2ohm load, which is far easier to install.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi,

your the man !!

will let u know once its installed...

waiting on tweeters... my bmw guy says they are £50 each !! i might be better of buying components ..someone posted something about £150 for a set inc tweeters..

thanks a mill

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I wouldn't, the mids you have in the car work really well in the space they are in, the L7 tweeters are also really, really nice tweeters, loads of detail, never sound brittle or harsh and they take less than 10 minutes to fit.

Even if you take the amp out and the subs you can leave the tweeters there as well.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi all, should be picking up my e61 on saturday, can't wait.... you've tempted to go for the upgrades as discussed (especially you guy, and thanks for all your help some time ago on babybmw.net with my 130i).

Can i just check a couple of things (apologies i have searched but didn't find the specifics above).

a) Part number for tweeters: is it 65 13 6 978 631 ? The stealer quoting £50 each (as mentioned above) but on real-oem it shows as being a quantity of 2. [see RealOEM.com   BMW E61N 535d SINGLE PARTS F FRONT DOOR TOP-HIFI SYST. ]

b) should i order the 4-ohm SWS8's, as my car only has the basic audio install (ie. no hifi or logic7 upgrades) and i'm going to run it from the blaupunkt amp anyway ?

c) cable/harness: should i order the 5.5m harness from bluespot ? Or do BMW (or other third party supplier) produce something better ?

d) Speaker cable: i have some custom-install cable from our home install which is a 4-core with LS0H cover - should i use this to connect the two subs directly to the amp ?

e) For the touring, is the best place to install the THA-555 in the side panel or under the boot mat in the wheel well ?

Apologies if i'm asking obvious questions that have been covered - i did try to search for answers but didn't find the specifcs. Any guidance would be much appreciated.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

i ordered 4ohm ones and they sent 2 ohm

friend of mine at work may be interested in buying the 2-ohm versions if you're selling rather than returning back to the shop.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hello to all,i am new on this forum,i am from Europe Romania,sorry if my english is bad :P,so i want an advice from u guys,i have an BMW 520i E60 2005 and i want to upgrade my sound system,i have standard audio,bussines navigation with small navigation,please if u can recomand some speakers,subs,tweeters and amp,i want to know if is fitting the EARTHQUAKE SWS-8X CAR 8" under the seats,thank u!+++

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi Guys,

I have just ordered the THA555 AMP and the Earthquake speakers. Will order the tweeters today.

I was just checking how I was going to run the cables in the car, I have come across a couple of problems. The plastic trim on the rear passenger door does not seem like it is going to come completley off, feels like it may snap. Any idea how to get it off?

Also do I need to remove the back seats to be able to run the cable into the trunk. I have the standard seats. If so how do I go about doing this? I have got some guides from the E60 info sites. If these are guides I should use please let me know.

When I run the speaker cable for the subs. Can I just run all the cable down the passenger side and then route the cable for the driver side sub from under the passenger side sub enclosure to the driver side sub enclosure.

Also I will run the 5.5m AMP cable down the passenger side. Should this be run up behind the glove box and to the head unit? You can see in the pic attached the contents of my glove box. The Dension 500GW (silver box) is sitting there with the BTA1500 (blue) on top.

Thanks for any advice in advance.

post-28577-137914436092_thumb.jpg

post-28577-137914436097_thumb.jpg

post-28577-137914436101_thumb.jpg

post-28577-137914436107_thumb.jpg

post-28577-137914436111_thumb.jpg

post-28577-137914436116_thumb.jpg

post-28577-13791443612_thumb.jpg

post-28577-137914436124_thumb.jpg

post-28577-137914436129_thumb.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
I have just ordered the THA555 AMP and the Earthquake speakers. Will order the tweeters today.

DOH ! I have one here you could have at half the retail price, not going to use it in the X6 now as ended up with Logic7. :ffs:

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I have just ordered the THA555 AMP and the Earthquake speakers. Will order the tweeters today.

I was just checking how I was going to run the cables in the car, I have come across a couple of problems. The plastic trim on the rear passenger door does not seem like it is going to come completley off, feels like it may snap. Any idea how to get it off?

Also do I need to remove the back seats to be able to run the cable into the trunk. I have the standard seats. If so how do I go about doing this? I have got some guides from the E60 info sites. If these are guides I should use please let me know.

When I run the speaker cable for the subs. Can I just run all the cable down the passenger side and then route the cable for the driver side sub from under the passenger side sub enclosure to the driver side sub enclosure.

Also I will run the 5.5m AMP cable down the passenger side. Should this be run up behind the glove box and to the head unit? You can see in the pic attached the contents of my glove box. The Dension 500GW (silver box) is sitting there with the BTA1500 (blue) on top.

Thanks for any advice in advance.

I'm almost on the same boat here. I have E60 2007 with standard speakers (non hifi). Opened it today from the back like you had in your pictures and wondered about wirings if I should do the 4channel amp solution.

I have ordered Audio System AX08BMW subs and AS100BMW mids for front doors. Tweeters are already in place. I think that I can get more out of those speakers if I get amp to drive them.

I think that most ideal would be to get a small 2 channel amp (maybe blaupunkt tha275pnp), and put it behind the glovebox and just plug-and-play it to original cables and have it to take power somewhere from glovebox.

Couple issues ...

1) Can that amp take power from somewhere in the glovebox with some blaupunkt adapter cable?

2) How about those ohms... dont really understand those, but would it be ok to drive 6 speakers (front tweeters, mids and subs) with 2 channel amp?

Thanks!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Received my Audio System speakers today. Took the door-panel away just to notice that these AS100BMW midtone speakers wont fit to existing screws. Also the ring, what goes inside, seems to be 2-3 mm bigger. Nice.

Didnt dare to start drilling holes next to original holes, for two reasons. If there is something wrong with the speaker, I'm sure that guarantee will be voided. Secondly, I could not be sure that it would fit inside because of that bigger outside ring. (Also, could'nt be sure, if that speaker is too deep to fit in the door. As it seems it was not designed for this car)

In worst case I would have drilled them, then noticed that it still wont fit. Then tried to return them, and they would answer that "its not in original condition, we cannot take this back anymore".

Strange thing that they advertise that it will fit to E60, and it seems that they have not eaven tested it.

Browsed through many forums, but couldnt find anyone who have installed these to E60.

So, I sent mail to the dealer... Now waiting what they say.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Evening All,

I have just completed the install of the Blaupunkt THA-555 AMP and the Earthquake SWS-8 Subs, man does it make such a difference, the bass now sounds amazing! I did not have enough time to install the tweeters, but by just adding the amp and the Subs, I can already hear the differnce.

It has taken me nearly 8 hours today to do this work, I still did not manage to put the back seats in as it got dark :-)

There were 2 tricky parts in the install.

1. Removing the back seat, had to remove the centre seat belt and then disengage the secure locks from the boot, best thing is to lie on your back in the boot and use a screwdriver and move the spring connection to the side. Also by doing this the trim on the rear door can be removed easily.

2. also removing the climate control took some time. First i removed the air vent panel, remebering to unclip the hazard,keylock button, then some screws are visisble that you must undo, you can then pull it out a little and you need to use a long screwdriver to unclip to hinges. then the headunit comes out easy.

I ran the Blaupunkt cable under the glovebox and then back into behind the head unit, it is quite tight in there so had to move all the connectors to some space on the left hand side of the head unit.

The speaker cable was run down the trim of the car and then below the rear seat and through the hole back into the boot where the big red cable runs into.

I got a few questions

1. Does everyone run the sub remote control cable? If so which side of the car do they run it down and where do they install the control?

2. At the moment the power feeding my amp is from the head unit, is there any danger in doing this? (so Amattila, you can run the pouwer from the head unit)

3. When connecting the Blaupunkt adaptor to the back of the headunit, on the power cable connectors there is a yellow (constant) and red (ignition) cable and then on the loom which goes back to the amp there is just a yellow connector. Do these need to be connected?

4. I bought 2 x 2 ohm SWS-8 subs. I ran a separate pair of cables for each sub and connected them separatley on the amp. Please confirm if this is fine. For each sub I ran the cables down each side of the car, i hope this will not be a problem on the driver side of the car where the 12 volt cable is.

5. I found a problem with the sound cutting out, when the bass was pretty low, if I reduced the volume it was fine. Any ideas what this could be?

6. on the idrive i set the treble to 3 bars and the bass to 3 bars? Is there a better setting for this?

7. I set the amp settings as follows, is this optimal?

tha555_settings_1.jpg

8. I tried to connect the AMP directley to the battery, but I saw the protect light blink red twice. All I did was run a cable to the battery in the boot for the +12V and then connected the earth to the chassis of the car. Anything i done wrong?

9. Also down the passenger side door there is some trim below the glove box, I am finding it difficult to put this back, any tips?

Thanks for any help in adance.

post-28577-137914436592_thumb.jpg

post-28577-137914436595_thumb.jpg

post-28577-137914436598_thumb.jpg

post-28577-137914436601_thumb.jpg

post-28577-137914436604_thumb.jpg

post-28577-137914436607_thumb.jpg

post-28577-137914436609_thumb.jpg

post-28577-137914436611_thumb.jpg

post-28577-137914436614_thumb.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hate to tell you this, but running 2 x 2ohm subs will give the amp a 1 ohm load and that amp can't handle it.

You need the 4ohm subs so the amp sees a 2 ohm load. The amp will go into protect mode with those subs and turn off.

You can use them, but you need to wire them differently, see this diagram.....

2SVC_2-ohm_mono.jpg

I always run the amp off the battery, positive to the positive, there is a block above the battery where you can add it, you don't have to go to the actual battery, in fact best not to, and the neg wire to the nagative.

When you hook to the battery make sure the power cables from the head unit are not connected.

I ran the sub vol down the right hand side and into the cubby hole under the steering wheel so it was hidden.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks Gizze, I done that this morning, was not too much hassle as all the wiring that needed to be changed could be done directly from in the boot.

I will try to run the sub remote today. Will let you know how I get on.

Are there any drawbacks from running the power from the head unit?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Only that the amp 'may' pull too much current and fuse the radio fuse.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Oh Lord, I googled E60 speaker upgrade and ended here and confused!

Just bought a pre-reg'd E60 530d M Sport with Media and standard speakers. Wanted to upgrade to something equivalent to Logic 7.

Firstly I dont even know how many speakers are in the car in the first place but I assume we have front door speakers, under seat speakers(?), rear shelf speakers(?) and possibly rear door speakers(?). Please feel free to correct me.

Anyway if we go for the full upgrade I understand that I will need a 5 channel amp. Then I will need Logic 7 tweeters in the door pillars behind the mirrors. Also new Earthquake sub-woofers to replace those fitted under the front seats(?) What about the other speakers in the doors etc?

Basically what is my initial shopping list? Want to make sure I get the right gear before I start dismantling the interior of my new car.

Also my climate control panel is nothing like the one in the pictures demonstrating how this is removed with a bent credit card. Has anyone tried this upgrade to a recent model with I-Drive etc.

Any advice gratefully accepted and please excuse my ignorance on the matter

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Further to prevoius post I have ordered the THA555 amp and wiring loom and now need to order the SWS-8 subwoofers.

Should these be 2 or 4 ohm?

Thanks

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I bought the 2 ohm ones and as long as they wired correctly as Gizze has suggested they should be fine. I am no sure if there are any advantages in having the 4 ohm ones?

I just tried this other day on a 2005 520d, I just have a single slot CD Player and the climate controls, you can see the pics in my previous post.

For an initial parts list I got

Blaupunkt THA-555 AMP

2 x Earthquake SWS-8 Subs (2 ohm)

2 x L7 Tweeters (Just remembered something, I have the grill, do i still need to buy any additional housing)

Just make sure you have a ratchet/screwdriver kit for all the Torx screws. I also bought a plastic trim removal tool set from fleabay, can be useful and also used my hands alot to pull the trim off directly.

In my car I only had the underseat , front door and rear shelf speakers.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The 2 ohm subs will be wired for 4 ohm, and give you around 80watts to them, however, wire the 4ohm subs seperately and you will get a 2ohm load, giving the subs around 150watts.

That is the difference, a bit more control and a bit more volume.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

wow, that is quite a big difference! Well it makes sense, when I had them wired incorrectly yesterday it seemed the sound was louder and a deeper, lower bass sound but obviously not doing the amp any good.

Damn.. I could not find a UK stockist of the 4-ohm subs and did not really prefer to ship them in from the USA :-(

However this still has improved the sound in the car by quite a lot!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I bought mine from New Jersey, they were only $90 each and $27 for shipping, and arrived in 2 days.

Not sure how much they are here as they weren't available here at all when I got them.

The 2ohm ones were a direct replacement for the factory L7 system.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks I'll order the 4 ohm units.

In your opinion, should I change the door and rear shelf speakers? If so to what?

Thanks

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!


Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.


Sign In Now