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Golf GTI Mk2 rear brake carrier


bobbuild
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In the process of replacing the rear discs on an 8v Golf GTI Mk2. I've managed to do one side but the brake carrier bolts on the offside are absolutely solid. I've drowned them in WD40 and tried a bit of heat but they just will not budge. It feels as though the hex socket is starting to get a bit sloppy and I am worried that I may round them off if I use any more force. Anybody had a similar problem and if so how did you get round it? Any advice gratefully accepted!!

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Do NOT tighten them Bob. Heat it the only way to get them off, unfortunately. Only use a hex socket - don't use a multi-hex one.

If you do end up rounding off the bolts, you'll need to hacksaw off the ends and slide the carrier off, then use more heat and a pair of mole grips on each bolt.

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Do NOT tighten them Bob. .

May i ask why you so strongly disagree ?

If you try tighten it, it brakes the hold/seal it has, therefore it makes it easier to loosen.

Its a tried and tested method for any bolt just about any mechanic uses especially if you have started to round the bolt off.

Edited by Snoopy
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If you use a proper hex socket (not a multi-hex socket) then you shouldn't have the problem to start with. I worked as an auto engineer for a long time and tightening before loosening was never a practice I saw or knew of anyone using.

If you try to tighten and already tight bolt, you're applying an excessive amount of torque to the bolt head, so you risk stressing the metal and shearing it off.

WD40 and heat are your friends on older cars +++

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You only slightly tighten it too crack the rust/corrosion seal nothing more. You hear it free itself. I don't know any mechanic that does not use this technique its a very well known thing to do in the industry and it often works were heat and wd40 for many attemps have previously failed, especially if you have slightly worn the head by that point. Your applying excessive amounts of torque to the bolt to loosen it when its rusted/corroded in to start with. Applying opposite forces after many attemps the otherway can be benificial. I have never heard of anyone shearing the head off in 30+ years in the industry with this option were more and more heat/cooling/force to loosen it easily will. Ive used this countless times on my many 50s, 60s and 80s restoration projects as well as when i was in the trade without any problems were the other options have failed.

Each to there own though.

Edited by Snoopy
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All the wiser for posting Bobbuild?

Let me help you make the right decision and show you previous work from these two thoroughly helpful chappies:

Snoopy:- I have never heard of anyone shearing the head off in 30+ years in the industry with this option were more and more heat/cooling/force to loosen it easily will. Ive used this countless times on my many 50s, 60s and 80s restoration projects

1116505-10472d1173336897-proof-man-.jpg

And now the trusty Mr Mook who says:

I worked as an auto engineer for a long time and tightening before loosening was never a practice I saw or knew of anyone using.

If you try to tighten and already tight bolt, you're applying an excessive amount of torque to the bolt head, so you risk stressing the metal and shearing it off. WD40 and heat are your friends on older cars

RedRobinsDiff.jpg

:P:p:p

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