eldavo69

2006 987 Boxster 2.7

119 posts in this topic

State of his hair he's hardly a good ad for a hairdresser, is he...?! :P

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Hey eldavo - I have to say you are Mr Thorough when it comes to all things 4 wheeled. Properly impressed +++

Is this where I admit that the majority of the time I pay somebody else to wash my company car?

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Sod that - it's a company car +++

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Is this where I admit that the majority of the time I pay somebody else to wash my company car?

 

No, I wouldn't admit that, if I were you :coffee:

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No, I wouldn't admit that, if I were you :coffee:

I'd better not then!

Anyhoo - ordered some replacement wheel bolts as I wasn't happy about how corroded the radius collars were.

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The Boxster has parking sensors but MrsEldavo is used to a reversing camera and given the blind spots caused by the roof shape it seemed a good idea to fit one - especially as the Parrot Head Unit has dedicated connections for one.

This nice deep lip between the number plate lights seemed ideal:

D2AF5ED7-0813-40C7-A144-E39FB205A6BB.jpg

So it was "spoiler up" to remove that and get to the first few fasteners:

85509923-D7DF-4022-A8B1-70AF3661BFB6.jpg

Then the lights out to reveal some more fasteners, another 8 underneath and the bumper simply slides off:

326AE28D-056D-4841-B320-5B0605D8DD31.jpg

The camera kit was about a tenner off eBay and came from China, it included the camera, all the cables and even a hole saw. After a quick check that it worked, I measured the centre point on the bumper and fitted the camera:

EBCA37E3-7645-406D-B83A-01007D733C58.jpg

The grommet for the bumper wiring was as slack as a hooker's chuff, so held it open with a screwdriver (the grommet, not the chuff) and fed the video and power cables into the boot area:

F64E803C-A4DB-4C62-A98A-574386DC75DD.jpg

Took a 12v and a ground off the rear light cluster wiring, the positive is tapped into the reverse lights so that the camera will automatically power on when reverse is selected. I'm not a fan of Scotchloks so stripped back the insulation, soldered the wires into place and reinsulated with electrical tape:

7DBC73CB-FAFD-4654-9C92-D3997A61FF83.jpg

A neat touch is that the video RCA cable also has a separate signal wire attached to it, I hooked this up to the positive wire that fed the camera. The other end of this signal wire connects to a cable on the back of the head unit, when it sees 12V it automatically switches the display over to the rear view camera input. Saves me running a separate wire for this purpose from the loom in the driver's footwell:

C4CC1878-010A-4D0E-8B1D-29728356B989.jpg

Everything back together and ran the video cable around the edge of the boot floor, under the roof mechanism, into the cabin by the roll bar, then tucked under the carpet around the engine panel and then under the central transmission tunnel into the back of the unit. You select reverse, the camera powers up and the screen changes to the relevant input:

A9EC97D0-1802-4586-BBB4-0BEC830DEDF8.jpg

Works well at night too:

04437B1D-A897-4FE0-AE7F-268EBA196012.jpg

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Replaced those horrible corroded wheel bolts with some nice new ones too:

0775DBDC-63E9-4114-84D3-DC198E67E4D7.jpg

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You could just completely rebuild the car out of new Boxster spare parts you know...

 

:bike:

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He's going to sell it to Daz in a years time. :roflmao:

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The Boxster has parking sensors but MrsEldavo is used to a reversing camera and given the blind spots caused by the roof shape it seemed a good idea to fit one - especially as the Parrot Head Unit has dedicated connections for one.

This nice deep lip between the number plate lights seemed ideal:

D2AF5ED7-0813-40C7-A144-E39FB205A6BB.jpg

So it was "spoiler up" to remove that and get to the first few fasteners:

85509923-D7DF-4022-A8B1-70AF3661BFB6.jpg

Then the lights out to reveal some more fasteners, another 8 underneath and the bumper simply slides off:

326AE28D-056D-4841-B320-5B0605D8DD31.jpg

The camera kit was about a tenner off eBay and came from China, it included the camera, all the cables and even a hole saw. After a quick check that it worked, I measured the centre point on the bumper and fitted the camera:

EBCA37E3-7645-406D-B83A-01007D733C58.jpg

The grommet for the bumper wiring was as slack as a hooker's chuff, so held it open with a screwdriver (the grommet, not the chuff) and fed the video and power cables into the boot area:

F64E803C-A4DB-4C62-A98A-574386DC75DD.jpg

Took a 12v and a ground off the rear light cluster wiring, the positive is tapped into the reverse lights so that the camera will automatically power on when reverse is selected. I'm not a fan of Scotchloks so stripped back the insulation, soldered the wires into place and reinsulated with electrical tape:

7DBC73CB-FAFD-4654-9C92-D3997A61FF83.jpg

A neat touch is that the video RCA cable also has a separate signal wire attached to it, I hooked this up to the positive wire that fed the camera. The other end of this signal wire connects to a cable on the back of the head unit, when it sees 12V it automatically switches the display over to the rear view camera input. Saves me running a separate wire for this purpose from the loom in the driver's footwell:

C4CC1878-010A-4D0E-8B1D-29728356B989.jpg

Everything back together and ran the video cable around the edge of the boot floor, under the roof mechanism, into the cabin by the roll bar, then tucked under the carpet around the engine panel and then under the central transmission tunnel into the back of the unit. You select reverse, the camera powers up and the screen changes to the relevant input:

A9EC97D0-1802-4586-BBB4-0BEC830DEDF8.jpg

Works well at night too:

04437B1D-A897-4FE0-AE7F-268EBA196012.jpg

 

Look everyone.

 

In those last 2 pictures that drill is powering a car!

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One of the available options on the car from new was an extended leather package. Part of this involved the replacement of the two vinyl covered panels either side of the centre console with stitched leather ones. These are not only easy to change but make a big visual difference as they're one of the main parts of the interior you see whenever you use any of the heating/nav/etc.

As luck would have it, a couple of panels popped up cheap on eBay as they were slightly damaged and also happened to be the wrong colour! The leather handbrake sleeve had some ring marks on it that I intended to repair with a kit from The Furniture Clinic so the arrival of these parts gave me a suitable test bed.

I paid about £65 for the leather repair kit, including a £10 charge to have the colour matched exactly to the existing leather rather than their off-the-shelf colour. As the company is local I took the gearknob to them and they used the gaiter to colour match from. The kit is more than sufficient to do the console panels, handbrake cover and give the seat bolsters a spruce up too.

First thing first was to assess the panel, it was the darker of the two interior blue colours (I needed the lighter one) and had numerous indentations in it:

9E49E6A5-37A6-4F5A-8775-BDB15E3BDA8F.jpg

The first stages involved scouring the surface with a solvent and then alcohol cleaner to remove the protective coating and reveal the true state of play:

7DA53859-A767-4AB0-AFE7-887A24AF175C.jpg

With that done, it was time to set about using the flexible leather filler on the indentations:

630E3FED-4213-423A-BEE6-178FB671110D.jpg

This was gently sanded back with 1200 paper and then a colour coat was sponged on to act as a base and to reveal any parts that were still uneven:

5A9EB448-952F-4EF5-814C-70E7859AF6E1.jpg

A bit more work needed:

892EB4DE-0103-43CA-9169-141B27E0E487.jpg

So another bit of filling, sanding and sponging necessary before I was happy with it and then onto my state of the art home spray booth:

D1D6A19B-00DF-4A2A-85F3-4418E62B8350.jpg

Colour coat on and then a gloss finish sealant applied carefully as it is very thin so easy to get runs in it, still wet in the picture here - it's not THAT glossy, but it does show how smooth and uniform I got the surface:

537B2C43-580D-4E82-B298-9C24D82FC9B9.jpg

Based upon the leather sample I'd been given a semi-matt finish to match the OEM leather so once the glossy sealant was dry I sprayed a light coat of this and when it dried I was left with this:

195EDEA9-4E45-46E6-B1BA-FBCE48E829F0.jpg

Off to the Garage and time to remove the vinyl-covered plastic:

0BE2BC4F-F8F2-4C89-88F9-5B5C6887C074.jpg

To be replaced by the new part (and in true Blue Peter style, the other side was "one I prepared earlier):

C8614B95-BE97-413F-9130-51B6A56C739E.jpg

Overall - very happy with how it came out and a nice visual upgrade to the car as well as being a relatively shallow learning curve for doing the handbrake and driver's seat bolster :)

Edited by eldavo69
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If I buy a vintage car to restore, do you have much free time?  :roflmao:

 

As usual, very, very impressive.+++

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If I buy a vintage car to restore, do you have much free time? :roflmao:

As usual, very, very impressive.+++

I have a 2,700 piece Lego Technic GT3RS to build first :o

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I have a 2,700 piece Lego Technic GT3RS to build first :o

 

And then replace half the bits and cover the rest with stickers... :coffee:

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And then replace half the bits and cover the rest with stickers... :coffee:

I can work to 1:18th scale too (including stickers):

286D9FB4-7F10-46C2-AD02-52AD9EC0A12B.jpg

Edited by eldavo69

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The boot aperture finish is rubbish, all jagged and out of true. Do you own a dremel?

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The boot aperture finish is rubbish, all jagged and out of true. Do you own a dremel?

It's not actually! It's worn from where the boot lid has rubbed against it when it's been opened and closed repeatedly by a certain 8 year old.

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