Ska Posted April 15, 2005 Report Share Posted April 15, 2005 Right an annoying problem has turned up. It's a violent jerking action at about 1400rpm in most gears... Hmm could have phrased that a bit better! Its almost as if either the engine hesitates or more probably the G box stutters at this level of revs between about 1300-1700 rpm. The annoying part is that this sort of rpm level equates to about 45mph, town cruising so it happens often. It initially started a couple of months back and only happened once when the car was cold now it happens when ever I hover around the 1400rpm mark trying to accelerate gradually. However, if I floor the pedal the G box changes down and accelerates hard. Is this something to do with the TPS on the G box or engine or can this be caused by something other like the throttle body or the TCU. Has it lost pressure? the cars only done 108k miles and I had recently got the ATF changed Cheers Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AnArtist1 Posted April 15, 2005 Report Share Posted April 15, 2005 Sounds similar to the Infamous "Shunt", lazy gear syndrome or something like that. The b@stards at Audi fannyed about for so long my warranty expired!!! Still don't know whats causing it my self! I have had the ATF done and Air Mass Meter replaced, still does the shunt. I am not paying them another penny to investigate it further! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
a4tdi130 Posted April 15, 2005 Report Share Posted April 15, 2005 Surely you could take it to an Audi dealer, tell them what the problem is, and then they would fix it.... and if they don't, but replace things that didn't cure the problem, you don't get billed? It's an Audi, they are an Audi garage, if they replace something and it doesn't cure the problem then tough sh!t to them - they shouldn't be so rubbish - keep replacing things until it sorts the problem, then get billed for the last item on their list! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ska Posted April 15, 2005 Author Report Share Posted April 15, 2005 I thought the shunt syndrome happened when you came of the throttle then reapplied the accelerator causing the shunt into gear and it doesn't matter where on the rev range you are this more jerky thing happens at about 1400rpm and is a similar experience to running out of fuel but only more violent. Can it have something to do with the throttle position swicth do you reckon? As far as the stealer is concerned I'm afraid it doesn't work like that Parklands Audi said they'd charge for the fuel pump that was actually working and wasn't the cause of the fuel tank problem I had a while ago. They made up some banter about not trusting the part. I love the A8's but the recent amount of problems is seriously getting to me now and the stealer experiences only add to the gutt wrenching feeling. The cars only covered 107k but it has had a few owners I'm thinking of part exing it for something a lot newer, how much do you think its worth? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cruiser647 Posted April 15, 2005 Report Share Posted April 15, 2005 Try spraying in some carb cleaner (as it is running and being revved) from Halfords. Maybe a sticky butterfly valve??? And clean the MAF. Good luck. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ska Posted April 16, 2005 Author Report Share Posted April 16, 2005 Cruiser, I'm about to clean the throttle body with some cleaner from halfords but what do i use to clean the MAF sensor? A thought has risen if the there was something wrong with the g box then wouldn't the PRND432 lights , light up, because they arn't. When is the meet at windsor may be someone can Vagcom it B4 and if I have to take it to the stealers. Has anyone got VAGcom in the home counties or London that could help out? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pnifa1 Posted April 16, 2005 Report Share Posted April 16, 2005 Hi, Did you get the filter in the box changed at the same time as the fluid?? as it sounds like a dirty fluid issue to me, if the stealer has only changed the fluid by draining and refilling, there would still be heaps of filth built up on the oil pan surface and half the dirty oil still in the torque converter, add a dirty filter, and the oil change would have been a waste of time!, you need to ensure the pan is dropped, cleaned, new filter fitted and oil changed either by flushing through or a double change to get things something like, ckeck back with them as to exactly what they did, mine was behaving just like yours at 134K miles, after a double flush and filter (did it myself so know it was not skimped!) I simply can't beleive the difference in smoothness, additional acceleration & power I seem to be getting now. Also, if you use am independent, make sure they ONLY use the Audi fluid! no matter what they tell you! Good luck with it Paul Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ska Posted April 16, 2005 Author Report Share Posted April 16, 2005 I just took it for a spin and at the end I could smell ATF in the cabin prked up and dived under the car but the tranny sump is dry. The dealer charged me for a changing the strainer and said they'ed dropped the sump and is says so on the invoice but it also said they only used 3 qts, I'm beggining to think they pulled the wool over my eyes. Anyone know of a good trust worthy transmission specialst either around gloucester area or London? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ska Posted April 16, 2005 Author Report Share Posted April 16, 2005 Well clean out the throttle plate; quite a bit of crap built up inside. The result a much more responsive car but the jerkiness is stil there with a slack gear changes. I geuss its to the stealer on Monday then Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cruiser647 Posted April 16, 2005 Report Share Posted April 16, 2005 Hi, Your car is the 2.8 non-quattro??? I think the gearbox will hold less fluid. 3 qts sounds like how much my old Audi V8 with the 4 spd auto box had in it when I changed the ATF. Anyway, clean the MAF with alcohol and cotton buds. VERY CAREFULLY. The thing is easily broken. Did you have the engine running when you sprayed the stuff in? You could alwyas use alcohol and physically clean the throttle body? Still might be oily crap in it? BumpRT is your man for the tranny stuff - I think he used Audi Swindon. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ska Posted April 18, 2005 Author Report Share Posted April 18, 2005 OK the cars been into the stealer and they reported back just the one code; It refers to the Throttle body, they said they tried to reset the settings on the throttle body but it just wouldn't let it do it? So implicating the throttle body as faulty. BTW they wanted £850 to replace it Phoned up VAGparts and they would supply the part for £205 and £49 for fitting it from a local tuning specialist in eastcote including the electronic adjustment. Thing is can the throttle body be accountable for this jerking at low rpm One person at the stealer said to chage the plugs and to put some fuel treatment into a full tank of optimax 98ron. The plugs in the car are about 6-7 months old and are the Bosch super 4 platinum ones, the guy at the stealers insisted they be audi ones would that make a difference? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cruiser647 Posted April 18, 2005 Report Share Posted April 18, 2005 I think the dealer is talking out of his bottom, when it comes to the spark plugs. PW swears by the Super 4 Platinum jobs. You can try some Millers petrol stuff - the diesel stuff is genius, so I am sure the petrol one will do just as well. The throttle body is a possibility. I had a problem with mine. The car would sometimes cut out as I coasted down motorway slip roads. ONLY after a good kickdown session on the drive before it????? If I did not kickdown, then the revs would drop and idle would be VERY ROUGH for a small while, until it recovered up to 700 or so. Tobes tried to reset it on VAGCom, but it did not repsond. I think mine was slightly faulty. On the V8, I don't think fitting was a long job......half hour max??? for a decent mechanic. You will defo need the electonic adjustment though! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ska Posted April 19, 2005 Author Report Share Posted April 19, 2005 With regards to bloody jerking problem. Sorry to go on a bit but I'm struggling to diagnose it the dealers charged £116 for a diagnosis but when I asked them if that was a new throttle body was the cure to this problem they're answer was... wait for it..."Its a start, it could be or it might take more work" They even said they had cleaned it out to see if that would make a difference (so now its been cleaned twice once by me with the engine switched off and once by the stealer). But still no joy they couldn't reset the settings. I've experienced a couple of misfires but can a faulty throttle body be responsible for misfires? From what you say about the symptoms of your throttle body problems, you can notice rough idling which I presume is noticeable on the tacho. However when the my car jerks around there is no fluctuation on the tachometer or any signs that the engine will shut down, just a violent shudder as if the chassis will be ripped out from under you? To add to this my fuel economy has gone really crap around the low 15mpg's around town compared to a normal of around 22mpg. Another problem that has developed is the resetting of the memory seats and wing mirror settings randomly when unlocking the car with the second key. If this is connected to the above problem do think the ECU is playing up especially when I know the car has misfired every so slightly but the stealer reported only one code in relation to the throttle bloody body and said there were no others, doesn't a misfire get stored in the cars brain. If it was the ECU shouldn't the yellow engine management light, light up on the display? At the rate of problems I'm having with this car and the amount of hard earned that’s going into it I am seriously considering selling it cos the dealers are an absolute farce as well Yours truely p1ssed and full of questions Ska Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cruiser647 Posted April 19, 2005 Report Share Posted April 19, 2005 If you rev the car when it is in P or N, does it sound OK? Is it only when the engine is under load? And only when the revs get above a certain rpm? All the time?? Check the plugs, what colour are the tips? Maybe it is the coil packs (if fitted)? Disconnect all the leads (1 by 1) and have a look at them - spray with the old WD-40??? Check your cars Earth cables. and battery. Also, check out on Audiworld if anybody else has had this. Good luck - sounds like you need it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ska Posted April 19, 2005 Author Report Share Posted April 19, 2005 Hey Cruiser, It does sound Ok in P and N revs freely but on occasions when i have experienced the juddering it has missed acouple of times but no mre then that. It occurs only when the engine is under load. And only when the revs get above 1200rpm and below 1900rpm. Mostly the the top 3 gears going uphill with a slightly depressed accelerater i.e trying to slowly increase speed in the same gear. Going to replace the plugs today. As for the coil packs I remember John at Allaudi removing them and saying he had replaced them to see if they were the cause of engine not firing up when I had the fuel pump/tank problem... By golly I think that may be it Criuser!! right how much are the coil packs then. Cheers M8 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tomk Posted April 19, 2005 Report Share Posted April 19, 2005 yup i had similar problem on my A3, replaced both the throttle body and the coil packs, its much better now ++ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ska Posted April 19, 2005 Author Report Share Posted April 19, 2005 Hmmm...much better you say. I'm gonna end up going the same route as you Tom, so is your car completely cured or better? Were your symptoms noticable as missfires and violent judders and could you see the tacho. jumping about the place? Cheers Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tomk Posted April 19, 2005 Report Share Posted April 19, 2005 check your pm ! id get down to AMD in bister and get them to have a look over ( they charge £60 an hour but wont change you to have a look ) my car is indead better now , still get the slight twinge in it , but recon thats down to needing better earthing on the engine , Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PaulW Posted April 19, 2005 Report Share Posted April 19, 2005 Do you have vag-com? Without it....you're in the dark. With it, did you check if there are fault codes? Occassional misfires are really no big deal unless the engine is running like it is misfiring. Did you try putting some fuel injector cleaner into the gas tank? I do this once or twice a year, I have seen an older A8 injectors block up. Did you do an output test of the engine? Does the intake manifold swap over valve stay "sucked in" at low RPM's? Or is it half way sucked in....here's a picture, the diaphram thing on the right: That is a 32 valve motor, the 40 valve motor has two of them, which is three stages. It changes the intake runner over from low to high RPM's. I wouldn't sell the car because it has a simple problem.....but without a service manual and vag-com, you are in the dark. Good luck! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ska Posted April 19, 2005 Author Report Share Posted April 19, 2005 Hi Paul, The stealer carried out a diagnostic and the only fault code reported relates to the throttle body. They we're unable to reset it so they diagnosed the throttle body as being faulty. Theres some fuel treatment in the tank right now. As for the intake manifold swap over valve how can you check if its working right I do have a diaphram thing with alinkage that connects to the side of the throttle body at the back of the engine. The problem with my A8 is that its a 2.8 V6 30v so as far as I know there is no workshop manuals for it. I was going down the route of replacing the throttle body and coil pack with new ones? But rest assured I intend to purchase VAGcom asap. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PaulW Posted April 19, 2005 Report Share Posted April 19, 2005 I have a workshop manual for a 2.8, but it would be the same as the A6. I do not know if you have a dual runner intake manifold, but I believe so. Open the hood when the car is idling and check to see that the diaphram is completely "sucked in", it is shown relaxed in the picture above. If it's stuck half way, this could be making things worse. If you post codes, I can help. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ska Posted April 19, 2005 Author Report Share Posted April 19, 2005 Thanks for that Paul . This manual is it readily availible? I think the A6 2.8 30v motor is similar but has some small differences. Not least on the throttle body; my one incorporates the function of ISV as well as God knows what else. I'll check the diaphram tonight. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PaulW Posted April 19, 2005 Report Share Posted April 19, 2005 I have a manual that is not readily available, but the A6 maual from bently publishers would have your engine in it.....plus you would need the A8 manual to combine the two together. When you get vag-com, I should be able to help. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cruiser647 Posted April 19, 2005 Report Share Posted April 19, 2005 Get along to a meet. If you get to the MK meet (first week of the month), then tobes might bring his along. Send him a PM.......offer of a etc etc..... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ska Posted April 19, 2005 Author Report Share Posted April 19, 2005 I was going to try to get to the next meet but I replaced the plugs for some older ones I had lying around and now the car is misfiring badly even in N and P and the hesitation has spread throughout the rev range. I checked that diaphram Paul there seems to be two of them one is linked to the throttle body housing and the other is under the coil pack, but none make any movement during revving? 1st things 1st I'll have to get the throttle body replaced then see if the coil pack needs replacing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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