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What to look for in old TT's?


Atomic
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Looking at some of the older TT's - around 1999/2000 and would like some advice in terms of wear and tear and common faults.

Not so much battle damage, I'll make sure the car is inspected if need be but more then running gear, engine, interior, dodgy painwork etc.

Thanks,

AG>

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Ensure the cambelt has been changed at least once as it should be done every 60k or 5 years.

Check that the wheel bearing recall has been done too as this was need for early 99 models.

Usual TT probs. are dashpod failure (can be repaired for free if the dealer is nice), MAF and Coil failure which can be seen if the engine is runing rough or lumpy when idle. Diverter Valve split means a high whistle when go up the gears and loss of performance and finally clutch slip which could mean new flywheel and or master cylinder going. These are probs. which are not going to break the bank but the cambelt change can cost a lot more.

Mine needs doing really as my car is 2001 with 68k and no cambelt change was done on it. Then again the car is under a 2 year warranty and the dealer assumes it needs to be done at 80k, so in that respect I should be ok if it did go.

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The cheapest TTr you are likely to find will probably be the same combo that my first one was:

http://www.woofdoggy.com/Audi_TT.htm

Nimbus with Baseball.

The best colour though is definately this one:

http://www.woofdoggy.com/audi_tt_berry.htm

I do think that Black with Baseball looks cool with the roof down as its a nice contrast and then with roof up its all one colour 169144-ok.gif

As for engine - I'd go for either 225 as you can get a reliable 260 - 270 bhp from these engines should you ever feel the need for more or the 150 fwd as these have far more boot space than the 225 or 180.

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Cambelt as said,

water pump,

check servicing has been regular

Tyres - check wear patterns - many TTs seem to suffer from uneven running/bad alignment

Boost - does it come on boost properly and are there any odd noises/smoking signs from anywhere?

ARBs - they can clonk when going over bumps - relatively easy to fix and may be the bushes wearing

Look for BOSE if possible - better system and good for resale

Make sure no flat spots on acceleration or lumpy moments - could indicate coils/MAF

Check the dash pod as mentioned - does it give accurate readings on things? Check if imported car at all, may affect warranty on things like the dash pod.

Enjoy!! cool.gifgrin.gif

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[ QUOTE ]

I'm surprised you mention the 150... I was tempted earlier but thought i'd get flamed smile.gif

[/ QUOTE ]

The 150 is great, it isnt as fast, but it still looks the part, plus it has a boot you can get shed loads into, My mrs had one after our daughter was born - she could get buggy, plus baby rubbish into the boot with ease 169144-ok.gif Also 2wd means less transmission loss so it doesnt feel that slow.

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[ QUOTE ]

[ QUOTE ]

I'm surprised you mention the 150... I was tempted earlier but thought i'd get flamed smile.gif

[/ QUOTE ]

The 150 is great, it isnt as fast, but it still looks the part, plus it has a boot you can get shed loads into, My mrs had one after our daughter was born - she could get buggy, plus baby rubbish into the boot with ease 169144-ok.gif Also 2wd means less transmission loss so it doesnt feel that slow.

[/ QUOTE ]

I have a 150 Golf with a Revo remap and it's very quick. Quicker than my ~230bhp quattro A4 certainly. If you're not bothered about not having quattro I'd wager that a remapped 150 would be (noticeably) quicker than a standard 225.

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