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Z4 M Engine Light

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Hi I've Just purchased a Z4 M Coupe and the engine light is on. I called the BMW Dealer and they have informed me that the light stays on until the engine has been warmed up.

So I took the car for a 15 min drive and the light is still on. I think I'm going to send the car back to the dealer to fix. Any advice would be appreciated.

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I thought the engine light went off almost as soon as you start up on almost every car.

What does the manual say about the engine light ?

Welcome to Tyresmoke by the way. beerchug.gif

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I think your right. Having just looked in the manual the symbol is for the Exhaust emissions and it states that I should get it checked a soon as possible.

It looks like it going back then.

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[ QUOTE ]

Hi I've Just purchased a Z4 M Coupe and the engine light is on. I called the BMW Dealer and they have informed me that the light stays on until the engine has been warmed up.

So I took the car for a 15 min drive and the light is still on. I think I'm going to send the car back to the dealer to fix. Any advice would be appreciated.

[/ QUOTE ]

A load of rubbish that it should stay on until warmed up!! I had a similar problem a few months back and it turned out to be a faulty lambda sensor, so that was replaced and all is fine.

Have heard the Z4's are prone to this as they suffer from carbon build up on the sensor's. I take it your car is not new?

Jay

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We had a faulty lambda sensor on the A3 last year, which also resulted in an engine light staying on, get it back to the dealers 169144-ok.gif

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Hi, this happens a lot on german cars which have been run on high octane fuel (shell optimax for example)and then somebody has put 95 ron in it (probably the dealer). The z4M should ideally not be run on 95 ron. If it persists run a few tanks of optimax through it and it will go away hopefully. VW R32s have been known to have this problem.

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I'm about to get my second lambda sensor. About 5000mls apart. I see from various threads lambda sensors on Z4M's are a bit of a problem. One owner on pistonheads has had 5! Anyone on here have any ideas as to what's causing them to fail?

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Never really heard of this being a problem, can't say I ever got an emissions light on my Z4 M. The dealer probably thought you were on about the lights around the rev counter - which do dissappear when the engine warms up.

Just have the sensor replaced under warranty and put high octane fuel in. Shell V-Power High Octane and Tesco Ron99 keep the engine putting out it's maximum power and keep it feeling responsive, both of these are lost slightly when putting in standard grade unleaded.

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Had the two sensors in front of the Cat replaced today. One was showing as 'sensor not connected' the previously replaced as 'open circuit'. Technician said they weren't seeing a run on them and mine weren't as contaminated as some he's seen. Shorts runs shouldn't contaminate them and they're heated too. Although a weekly m-way run would be a good thing to do anyway. He also said choice of fuel shouldn't matter either - SPUL would be better though. So no clues as to the problem / cause.

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LAMBDA MYSTERY???

Hi guys,

I have a Z4M with 26K miles.

The symptoms I'm getting are much like thoses described for the lambda probe:

- yellow check engine light comes on and stays on for 2 weeks, then goes off for a week, then comes back on

- hesitations on partial throttle

- holding back on full throttle for a couple of seconds

- 4 times on the motorway (once every 2 tanks of fuel), the car suddenly developped major stuttering (+ check engine light) as if running on barely 3 cylinders. This forced me onto the hard shoulder. I cut the engine and restarted 5 secs later. All was fine again after each of the 4 incidents.

---------------

Problem is, the car is showing no sensor-specfic error codes (just a general misfire code or a lean mixture code, i.e. a code for the symptom rather than the cause...)

BMW has already changed all 6 coils and plugs under waranty - to no avail.

They reckon it could be the fuel pump playing up, due to swallowing some gunk.

My questions to you guys:

1) Do you think this is the lambda probe problem?

2) If NOT, then what on Earth else?

3) If SO, then why no lambda probe error codes?

4) Without lambda probe error codes, how does one know which of the 4 probes to change?

5) In view of the apparent frequency of the lambda probe problems on this forum, should I just consider the lambda probes to be consumables and have all 4 changed - almost as a preventative measure?

6) Or should I just have the 2 pre-cat probes changed and see if it's any better?

This is getting FRUSTRATING - not so much the cost as I'm still under waranty but the hassle and the fact that I LOVE my M When if runs properly! ;-)

Thanks guys!

Alex

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