nicknick Posted September 24, 2007 Report Share Posted September 24, 2007 Hi, Thinking of adding HID kit to my A6 ..but I have full DIS with bulb checks etc and was after some experience of HID kits on Audi's and as I've seen some of the regular posters on the A8 forum have put them on wondered if anyone can comment ? Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shark_90 Posted September 24, 2007 Report Share Posted September 24, 2007 I have HIDs on my S2 and they tripped the bulb warning. There is a modification that can be done on the S2, UrS4 and UrS6 to stop the bulb warning. I believe VAGParts sell a kit that will not trip the bulb warning. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ska Posted September 24, 2007 Report Share Posted September 24, 2007 No warning on the DIS for me. Got the kit from ebay quite a while ago and, fingers crossed they're still going strong today on the first set of bulbs Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nikw Posted September 25, 2007 Report Share Posted September 25, 2007 I've put two sets on my car. The first was absolute rubbish, with a capsule (bulb) and then a ballast failing, but the second is still going stong 18 months later. Neither have triggered any bulb warnings or cost more than £120. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LostKiwi Posted September 25, 2007 Report Share Posted September 25, 2007 I'll let you know in a couple of weeks.... I just ordered my set today..... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nicknick Posted September 25, 2007 Author Report Share Posted September 25, 2007 Thanks for all the comments ...think I have to get this done soon as the lights on my early C5 model A6 are crap and with winter approaching I can't cope with not being able to see. Any tips on where to buy ...I've seen some for sale at £95 from turborevs (any thoughts ?) and from aceparts at £175 ... Is there that much difference ...or is there some middle ground that is ok ? Also - do I need to cut my light covers or can I buy the covers from audi (do the OEM covers have the hole in for the cable ?) Thanks again Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shark_90 Posted September 25, 2007 Report Share Posted September 25, 2007 You will need to cut your covers, the Audi Xenons are completely different and so the covers will be no use to you. Let us know how you get on Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nicknick Posted September 25, 2007 Author Report Share Posted September 25, 2007 I need a recommendation on where to buy first....£95 seems too cheap ...but then £175 seems too much when NikW says he paid less than £120 Any one help with some real world advice ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LostKiwi Posted September 25, 2007 Report Share Posted September 25, 2007 I ordered mine from www.sharphid.com - they do a number of versions from an economy version with a limited warranty through to a version with a lifetime warranty. Bulb colours can be chosen to suit and there are 35W and 50W variants too. I went with the Economy 50W version with 5000K 'bulbs' - cost was about £124 all in. 35W bulbs would reduce the price by about £50. If you can wait till I get them I can report back.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nikw Posted September 26, 2007 Report Share Posted September 26, 2007 I'm not sure that there's necessarily a relationship between price and quality. From experience I'd say that you have a choice - take a chance and buy cheaply from eBay, or pay more for the peace of mind offered by a warrantied kit from a reputable vendor. Either way I wouldn't pay more than £200 (you could buy three kits from eBay for less than that). As I mentioned above my first kit (£130) failed within four months, but the second kit (£89) is still going strong more than 18 months later. Both came from eBay. For reference, this kit looks identical to my current kit - same box and ballasts (the transformers that step the voltage up from 12v to 8,000-23,000v). 6000K colour temperature looks about right - slightly bluer than OEM Audi (4300K) but very similar to the appearance of late BMW HIDs. Any other questions? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nicknick Posted September 26, 2007 Author Report Share Posted September 26, 2007 Nik, Thanks for the info ...I'm after something that looks as OEM as possible (I have headlight washers already so I don't have that obvious giveaway) ...so do I need to stick with a 4300K bulb or is 6000k the way to go ?? Also - had a look at your link but can't see any more than the box photo ...also found this one http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Xenon-HID-Conversi...1QQcmdZViewItem Claims to be bosch (I'm sure !) ...but is going for £70 via best offer and feedback seems ok though I guess if they fail after 4 months then the feedback is not much use. If they fail what do you do ...go back to original bulbs until you replace ? Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ska Posted September 26, 2007 Report Share Posted September 26, 2007 I've gone for 8000K which is a little blue so have compromised on light out put; I intend to turn down the tint to about 6500K next time in favour of some more light. I payed around £140 IIRC from an ebay seller with a massive feedback score: no regrets. Also carefully check for the correct alignment when putting the bulb in the light lense unit; I found that moving the bulb fore or aft changes the illumination pattern in front of the car becuase of the projector typr lense Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nikw Posted October 1, 2007 Report Share Posted October 1, 2007 Nick, 4300K is to the best of my knowledge the colour temp of all OEM HIDs, but there's something about BMW headlamp lenses that makes them look bluer. If you like that look you'll want 6000K capsules (which are my preference). I seem to be getting my eBay kits mixed up. The link I posted has a box which is identical to my newer set, while your link shows ballasts which look identical to mine. My original unreliable kit has cast aluminium ballasts branded as JSM. In the event of failure you can indeed just reconnect your old incandescent bulbs. Alternatively, if it's the capsule that has failed you can buy replacements (complete with compatible connectors & cable) from vendors such as HIDS4U which is what I did, although shortly afterwards the ballast packed up too requiring the purchase of a whole new kit. Although it's inconvenient, at £70 per kit you can afford to have a few failures... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nicknick Posted October 2, 2007 Author Report Share Posted October 2, 2007 Thanks for the reply Nik....I've bought a set from ebay ( the fake bosch branded set I linked to ) for £70. I've asked the seller about bulbs - initially I thought I wanted 4300K as I want it to look OEM (initially I was concerned anything other than 4300K might look purple looking etc) but I've got doubts. I wonder if the 4300K will look more white/yellow in the bulb having been watching out all day for OEM xenon cars today...but of course I've no real idea and so I don't really know what to do ! Part of me thinks the 4300K will be best ...will have to see. Do I need to be concerned about anyone going in my engine bay once I've converted (like a garage etc with the high volts from the kit ?). I was wondering if I should try and mount the ballasts well out of the way (think the OEM position in A6 is underneath the headlight itself). Also - does your kit take power from the original bulb connectors - or have you run a relay from the battery triggered by the bulb connector ? Lastly - did you drill a hole through the back of the light cover or can you fit the wire through the existing connection for the stock light wiring Thanks again Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nikw Posted October 5, 2007 Report Share Posted October 5, 2007 If you can only get 6000K capsules then I really wouldn't worry - they're more a sort of steely white rather than blue by comparison to 4300Ks. The kit should be entirely safe once fitted. The ballasts are sealed units and the cables and connectors are usually insulated with good quality silicone. After my intial problems I was reluctant to mount the ballasts in too well hidden a spot, so they're loosely secured with cable-ties and easily visible. My MOT guy was quite happy with them as they are. I do wonder if my failed ballast was caused by heat. It was the one on the nearside of the engine bay and therefore only a few inches from the heat shield on the exhaust manifold. I've positioned the replacement further away, almost inside the wing behind the indicator housing. The other thing to consider is water - I wouldn't want them getting too wet with that kind of voltage floating around. Bear these things in mind when choosing a mounting position. My kit plugs into the original dipped beam wiring. This is what makes it so easy to revert to standard. You'll need to make a hole the size of a 2p piece in the back of each headlamp cover (the thing you unclip to get at the bulbs) in order to get the 12v supply out to the ballast and the resultant HT cable back in for the capsule. I was happy to do this on the basis that it would be easy to replace the covers if I made a mess of it or wanted to remove the kit permanently. Carefully check the size of the rubber grommet before mkaing the hole though - it needs to be a snug fit to prevent muck getting into the back of the headlamp unit. I'm happy to post some pics of my setup if you wish Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nicknick Posted October 5, 2007 Author Report Share Posted October 5, 2007 Thanks for the info ...some pictures would be very helpful. I 've taken the covers off my lights plenty of times ( to switch the beam when in France) and noticed there is a nice flat area in the middle of the cover that should be fine to pass the wires through. in terms of bulbs - I can get 4300 or 6000 (or even 8000k). I was initially going to go for 4300K but have since wondered if I should go for 6000k. I haven't confirmed yet so do have time to change my mind. You say the 6000k will be more white than the 4300K which wll be blue by comparison ?..if thats the case then I think I'd rather go with 6000k . Is that what you meant ?..as I though they went blue to purple as you went up the temperature scale ? Thanks again Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LostKiwi Posted October 5, 2007 Report Share Posted October 5, 2007 4300 will be more yellow than 6000 which will be less blue than 8000. White (midday daylight) is generally held to be 5000-5500K (in the photographic world at least where this is very important) so expect 6000 to be slightly blue (as opposed to 8000 which will be nearing purple). I have a set of 5500K studio lights (I have a small photography business) and they equate to a very white light with just the merest hint of coldness (blue) about them. The 6000K bulbs will be very similar. My own kit is coming as 5000K - as white as I could get. In my research there is a fall off in light intensity as you go away from from 4300K in either direction. Bulb Temperature 35 watt lumens 50 watt lumens Colour 3000K...............2950............3700.......Yellow 4300K...............3200............4100..White with slight yellow 5000K...............3150............4050.......White 6000K...............3140............4030..White starting to look blue 8000K...............3100............3600..Blue with a hint of purple 10,000K.............2950............3300..Blue to Purple 12,000K.............2920............3300..Purple As can be seen the difference in light output between 4300K and 6000K is nothing at all hardly....and personally I'd prefer the whiter light of 6000K to the yellow of 4300.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nicknick Posted October 5, 2007 Author Report Share Posted October 5, 2007 Thanks for this ...very useful. I was swaying to 6000k and now you've helped me make my mind up Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ska Posted October 5, 2007 Report Share Posted October 5, 2007 Heres what 8000k look like through the 8's projector lense when the suns going down;but they get bluer as it gets darker, and heres where the balasts live: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LostKiwi Posted October 15, 2007 Report Share Posted October 15, 2007 Well finally got the kit fitted and what a difference! No warning lights, a shed load more light and easier on the eye too. A trifle more blue than I was expecting but not an issue at all. Now all I need is another kit for the main beams.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ska Posted October 16, 2007 Report Share Posted October 16, 2007 Weldone M8 now you can see where your going There is a stark difference; I popped the halogens back on after a few months on the HID's - you might as well hold a candle out of the window I am never going back to halogens in any car Got any pics of how they look on your car? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jettadeluxe Posted October 16, 2007 Report Share Posted October 16, 2007 Why would you want to put HIDs in your main beam, you wont be able to flash anyone effectively anymore? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LostKiwi Posted October 16, 2007 Report Share Posted October 16, 2007 [ QUOTE ] Why would you want to put HIDs in your main beam, you wont be able to flash anyone effectively anymore? [/ QUOTE ] You're right, the start up time of the HIDs is a lot slower... but it would sure be nice to have the extra brightness (with the HIDs it barely makes any difference going to main beam!)... Hence the winky smiley.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ska Posted October 16, 2007 Report Share Posted October 16, 2007 [ QUOTE ] [ QUOTE ] Why would you want to put HIDs in your main beam, you wont be able to flash anyone effectively anymore? [/ QUOTE ] You're right, the start up time of the HIDs is a lot slower... but it would sure be nice to have the extra brightness (with the HIDs it barely makes any difference going to main beam!)... Hence the winky smiley.... [/ QUOTE ] Thats what I thought but I saw a new BMW the other day who flashed to give way and I could have sworn thay looked HID but with instant ignition? Have they improved the technology now? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LostKiwi Posted October 16, 2007 Report Share Posted October 16, 2007 Pics - one of the installation (left side only since the right is so well hidden by the airbox), one of the front of the car and one showing the light output shining into my front garden... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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