Jump to content

Low battery cause: battery, alternator or fanbelt?


Oli18
 Share

Recommended Posts

First off, HAPPY NEWYEAR!

I would like your advice regarding an electrical problem that i've gotten over xmas.

Since a few days, my car has hardly been charging the battery. I have had to resort to starting the car with a Halfords 'booster pack' that i clip onto the battery terminals.

Sometimes, if i've driven it for a little bit and start it within a few hrs, it just about manages to start but you can tell it's using every last bit of electrical juice it has to do so.

Not sure if this is true but am i right that the fanbelt drives the alternator and the alternator charges the battery?

The reason i ask is because something that has been occuring as of the last month or 2 is that there is a humming noise that seems to have gotten more noticeable. It makes the car sound more like an electric remote controlled car. When i last had my car serviced, Dean Hill (4Rings) said that the fan belt + tensioners needed doing next time. Could it be that the 'electric humming' is coming from my fanbelt and (as it has become a bit louder) could it be that it is the cause of my battery not charging properly?

Other things i thought it could be is

the battery

the alternator

Any idea how i can check? I have a 'multimeter' but have no idea how to use it! lol!

Any help much appreciated!

-Oli

Link to comment
Share on other sites

If your alternator were not charging the battery light in the car would stay on whilst driving.

I suspect your battery is knackered

You can easily check with a multimeter, it should read ~12.6v+ without the ignition on and ~14v with the car running.

I should think your alternator is charging but the battery is not holding charge.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Botang is correct, just put a volt meter on the battery terminals in the boot. If it's not at least 13 VDC with the car running, something is wrong with the alternator or wiring. If it's just the car starting....it could also be the electrical connection to the starter behind the RH wheel well, they go bad on some early A8's.

However, it does sound like the battery is going dead. If it has over 13 VDC on it when it's running, it's probably on its last legs.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks Botang and Paul!

I had a look and put the multimeter to work.

Readings were as follows:

Engine off: 9.7V

Engine on: 14.2V

I take it that means the battery is due for replacement?

If so, does anyone have a good tip for a deal on car batteries? and a cost indication?

Many thanks for the replies!

-Oli

Link to comment
Share on other sites

14.2V when running is spot on, which suggests that the battery is the cause. Have you tried hooking the battery up to a proper charger overnight? It is possible that the battery has become drained, but you aren't running the car long enough to fully recharge it.

The battery should read 13.2v immediately on coming off charge, dropping fairly quickly to 12.6v if fully charged. If an overnight charge doesn't fix it then it may be a new battery.

At this time of the year, with heated seats, blower, lights, heated window all running at the same time the battery can be drained very quickly, especially if you only do a short run.

The r/c car noise could just be the alternator working hard to recharge and power everything....

Steve

A useful website explaining this in more detail is here: http://www.aa1car.com/library/2004/ic120434.htm

Link to comment
Share on other sites

[ QUOTE ]

14.2V when running is spot on, which suggests that the battery is the cause. Have you tried hooking the battery up to a proper charger overnight? It is possible that the battery has become drained, but you aren't running the car long enough to fully recharge it.

[/ QUOTE ]

Thanks Steve! 169144-ok.gif

I must admit i don't have a proper battery charger. However, I drove it back from Brighton (to london) yesterday and had not touched it until i tested the battery with a multimeter an hr ago so i reckon it's had plenty of opportunity to charge on a trip like that. I tried starting it just now and it woulnd't do it without the booster pack again so i think it's a new battery for me!

Just been searching on the web for a deal on batteries and i have a feeling that it's going to be between 70-100 quid atleast! frown.gif

How much have others paid and where did they get theirs from if i may ask?

-Oli

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Shame you're not a bit nearer - Its amazing how many cars we pick up that have 'just had a new battery' - and they're right, it does make a difference.

My tip - Buy you're new one from a reputable reseller with high turnover. The A8 battery is big, and high current - they wont sell many, so the one you buy might have been sat on the shelf for 2 years - you want a 'NEW' one....... check it out....

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Just a though and might be cost effective; but a trip to your local breakers may bear fruit. I often get batteries from mine. Last one was a heavy duty one for the wife's car for £7.50. Even if you buy one a year its still cheaper than a new one. Battery checks with a volt meter are part of my weekly checks so i spot when they are on the way out.

Mike

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Whua, Botang i love that battery! It looks wicked. Can i ask how much it was and where you got it from?

I had a look at the gsf catalogue and gave the guys there a call. I got quoted 114 quid for a Bosch 100Amp battery and 100 quid for an own brand.

I also went to Halfords tonight and they too had an own brand for 99 quid.

Is it really not possible to get a battery closer to 60 quid?!

Am thinking of following Mike's advice and go to a scrappy and see what they have on offer.

-Oli

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The off road boys with V8 landys swear by Optima batteries for reliability, power under all conditions and high load usage

db1019.jpg

They don't come in many sizes so measure before buying to make sure it will fit.

The one shown is from Paddock Spares in Matlock and is £94+VAT and has 'only' 50Ah capacity but the cranking current is around 815A...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I doubt you'd need anything other than a red top Ska...

From Optima's website:

The Red Top battery is an SLI (starting, lights and ignition) battery to be used solely for starting applications.

The Yellow Top battery is a deep cycle battery for traction applications, such as wheelchairs and similar electrical vehicles or for heavy duty starting of engines with a higher drain on the battery.

The Blue Top battery is a combination starter and deep cycle battery specially adapted for the marine environment.

As the 50Ah Red top is the one recommended for the V8 Range Rovers upto 4.6l I would have thought that sufficient too...?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

£100 is good for a battery of that size. The batteries do not sit around for long because the A8 battery is shared by quite a few medium-sized vans.

I got a stunning bargain at CostCo a couple of years ago, but I'm not sure that I could repeat it, having looked there again recently.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

[ QUOTE ]

Whua, Botang i love that battery! It looks wicked. Can i ask how much it was and where you got it from?

[/ QUOTE ]

Sorry for the delay in reply, it was about £150 and from what i can make out, is similar to an optima battery in that it can be run flat and recharged without affecting performance. They seem to be quite new to the market so you may have to ring around to find a supplier but in theory any Bosch supplier could get it.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 1 year later...

Super old thread I know, but just replaced the battery in mine with a same same type 017 88ah unit that cost 59+vat from a local motor factors. Has a three year warranty blah blah but for all intents and purposes does the job - so you don't need to spend millions just for a replacement.

Real reason for posting this is did anyone notice any adverse affects when replacing? I noticed that my auto windows on the front seemed to have to remember they were auto, and the car idle seems to struggle when coming to a stop.. dips right down to the point of red lights flickering, then happily recovers to a decent idle

Why might that be? ECU not happy about having the power off for a few mins?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

you will have difficulty in the 'instant' approach unless you have 4 arms, as holding the connectors out the way as you drop the new battery in is a challenge!

Nothing on mine suffered though, other then the weird probably unrelated idling thing, and I had it disconnected for 5-10 mins in all I would guess

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Please sign in to comment

You will be able to leave a comment after signing in



Sign In Now
 Share

×
×
  • Create New...