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Ok guys, servicing...


DJStrange
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I've got a 1300 mile trip coming end of August, the tax is due and the oil light just came on this morning (oil can, "min" flashed up). I topped the oil up with some BP "Extra", think it was 5w30 and had VW/Audi approved letters/numbers printed all over it (sorry, it was 5.30am and I just bought what looked about right to top it up). I'm not worried if it's the wrong type, as I want to do a full service before I travel up to Peterhead end of August.

Now then, I want to do the ATF and anything else that needs/should be done/checked, as if I'd just bought the car and didn't know much about it's history, as it has had services, but I'd like to get it right back on track. I've just bought VAG-COM, I've got a laptop lined up soon, I'm not stuck for tools basically.

I'll get to the point - I want to do as much as possible myself, I'm handy with mechanicals but I need someone who's done these jobs before to guide me, so any offers of a mentor will be met with beer/tea/coffee or whatever, even if it means travelling to you.

I'm gonna start collecting the parts data tonight by getting all the numbers and stamps from the gearbox/engine/chassis etc.

OR

Do you think I should just get it booked in to a local specialist to do the whole lot?

I know there's a specialist at Iver called Fontains, but are there any recommendations from locals?

Sorry to be a pain, just want to get it all done for peace of mind. I've looked through Audipages and various threads on here, but it's the part numbers that always confuse me!!

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Hmm, sounds ominous...

Well I did remove an engine & gearbox from a mini (not BMW) a fortnight ago in less than 3 hours, on my own. (3 broken pistons and some shattered compression rings - nice...). It was far less difficult than servicing my Vectra V6 (torx bits all over the place, engine too big for the engine bay).

Not in nearly the same league as the S8 I know, but I do have a little bit of skill with fiddly jobs!! Is this service going to be that difficult?

I know the ATF is fiddly, lots of things to check and double check etc, funny looking hand-pumps and hidden bolts (reading audipages), that was the one I would probably leave to the experts but the engine oil & filters etc can't be that hard surely?

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I personally don't think anything is impossible, if you are handy and mechanically minded - its just all together - hate to see something not happen and the trip get affected. an oil service is easy, as are the various other bits, Gearbox time consuming and has to be done correctly, level ground, lifted off the floor in order to run up the car through the gears.. etc etc.. hence so many people leave that one and get a garage to do it, just for peice of mind and ease unless you have a lift in your garage!

That said plenty of people will advocate if you want something done properly.. and save a bit of cash..

Some garages can do more harm unless they are used the 8's , and recommended from this site!

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I'd agree.. Plenty of horror stories on screwed gearboxes from stealers and indies alike, but then again, wouldn't try it on my own :)

Not sure if there's a good indy up in Aberdeen, but if you fancy a stop off in Glasgow on your way up for a day or two, then there's a good indy here.

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It's not that hard, just rather critical - see the procedure on audipages. I had it done at the dealers, by their S/RS mechanic, but I think you could do it yourself with an extra pair of hands. But you have to know what you're doing, and think clean x 10. Any dirt in there can ruin a gearbox.

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Well well well...

Had an interesting conversation with the guy at Autopool Iver regarding the ATF and gearbox symptoms. I explained that in the morning, the gear change is a bit lazy coming out of 1st into 2nd when doing the 15mph limit down our access road (revs up to about 2.5-3k before changing, little squirt of the pedal gets it to change usually), and also that it has been doing some unusual gear changes recently, dropping a gear when not really necessary and has once done the rev-up then clunked into gear thing that people dread so much, although it didn't really bang, it just clunked as I dropped the revs.

He told me that changing the ATF and filter can improve the situation for a while, but it's not going to cure the problem. He said the problem is most likely with the air mass meter, which tells the ECU and therefore the gearbox how much the engine is loaded.

Don't know if anyone knows this already, but he convinced me this is usually what buggers the gearbox up, especially if you are getting fault codes from the air mass meter. He said it's not in his interests to tell me porkies as he wouldn't even touch the gearbox if it needed replacing, he'd recommend me a specialist (can't remember where it was, North West London I think, might have been Willesden). 18 years audi experience and he has half a dozen regular 8's in for servicing, that's what he assures me the problem will be.

He's gonna do me an aircon fault find and service/recharge tomorrow and look up any other fault codes for £45 +vat, which I think is very good value.

Interesting to talk to someone who genuinely knows his stuff though. Must admit I did think he was pulling my plonker at first!!

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I'm struggling on part numbers. Can someone confirm the MAF part number (Bosch) for '02 4.2 engine code AVP - I get 0280218067 - 077133471K from autotekelectronics.com for £65, 077133471KX and also 077133471J from VAGCAT.com (a difference of 100 euros between the two part numbers), W0133-1608107 from autopartswarehouse.com (actually I think this may be for the American market as their emission requirements probably differ to ours - all American site quote the same part no.)?

Edited by DJStrange
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Yeah, it's called MAF-sensor and/or AMM.

Always good to get the theory confirmed tho. ;)

As for the part nr:

The Audi nr. for the AVP (+ AYS & BCS) engine AMM is: 077 133 471 K

If need be this should translate to a Bosch part nr. which you can probably find on their site.

HTH.

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Cheers Sven. £65 not too bad rather than £1800 for a gearbox... it's already had ATF & filter changed last July incidentally, so I might get away with just changing the MAF?

Just back from Autopool. MAF did have a few fault codes, running lean, misfires. Gearbox had follow on codes for basically not knowing what gear to be in due to dodgy readings from MAF to ECU. So new MAF to fit.

Question - on replacing the MAF, do I have to reset anything with VAG-COM for the ECU to learn the new part?

The problems escalate with this motor though... Air-con recharged, no fault codes reported, no leaks in system but it seems the electro-magnet on the compressor is not operating - pulley spinning but the plate on the front doesn't move, even though the clutch is okay. Checked all fuses, just need to check there isn't a break in the wiring when I drop the undercarriage at the weekend to do the oil change. Also going to check there is a live feed going to the electro-magnet. Otherwise, repacement compressor AARGH!!

Gonna have to chat with A8parts about compressors I think..

Edited by DJStrange
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Yeah, trouble never comes alone it seems... Sometimes it can get a bit daunting, but keep in mind that everything you do is gonna make the car better and more reliable. Fixed is fixed... Once it's at a certain level of maintenance it should be pretty reliable (one hopes).

Reason why I decided to keep my S8. I know exactly what's been done, how it's been treated etc. That gives one a bit more confidence.

Anyway, the MAF should be 'plug and play' IIRC. I had mine replaced years ago at the dealers, so I'm not 100% sure on this, but I don't recall any info about VAG-COM being needed.

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I had a Volvo T5 which had a CAN-BUS and I replaced the MAF on that with no problem. Given those cars require everything pretty much (for example throttle bodies, ECU, alarm, immobiliser etc) to be coded to the rest of the car I'd be pretty amazed if an Audi A8 of that era needed the MAF to be coded in.

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Well, I thought I was gonna be busy this weekend...

Started at 7.30am this morning, changed oil & filter, changed MAF, investigated Aircon compressor problem - FIXED!! The wire to the electro-magnet had been disconnected from it's plug near the front of the wheel arch, plugged it back in, started her up, aircon on low, at last we have freezing cold air coming out!! Finished at 10.00am!!

I can't tell you how relieved I was! Really didn't savour the thought of a new compressor!

Just a small note on using Coopers filters. The old filter was a Mann filter, very well made actually in comparison to the Coopers pattern oil filter I got, which needed some small modifications for it to fit, namely about .25mm (quarter of a millimetre) of plastic removing from the insides of the holes at both ends of the filter, in order to make them fit over the flanges of the oil filter housing. I'm not going to keep this filter though. I'm going to source another Mann filter, as the quality of fitment and seal was excellent.

The coopers filter is sealed by foam pads at both ends, with the outer end (the end that fits over the detached filter housing cover) having clips that are different diameter to the Mann clips. The clip ring is also fixed.

The Mann filter is sealed by a rubber seal ring, and the clip ring is not fixed, it pivots so once you fit the filter to the filter housing cover and start tightening the cover back into the housing, once the filter seals inside, it can then spin rather than get twisted as I suspect the Coopers filter has.

So just a little heads up for anyone looking for oil filters, go for Mann - the quality exceeds cheaper pattern brands. I'll get the part number off it shortly.

Thanks for everyone's help on this thread, much appreciated as always.

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Well, I went out for a bit of a drive round and to be honest, the gear change problem seems to actually be slightly worse?!? It keeps shifting down when there's no need, holding onto gears when gently accelerating (more like it's in S mode), so I'm not convinced it's fully sorted. I'm gonna give it a few days to settle down, and if no change I'm gonna strip the old MAF down and clean it and try it back on again, because it seemed more stable than this new/reconditioned one.

Watch this space, I'll report back after a few days letting it settle down...

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Still got to be worth dropping the ATF oil out though surely.. for the couple of hundred max that will cost.. there have been soo many storys of similar complaints fixed by the oil change. I am desperate to get mine done, not that I have an issue, just that I want peace of mind.

Kiwi I assume when you did it on the drive you had the thing level off the ground, and not on 2 ramps? Did you do all the 'shifting through the box ' stuff aswell?

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