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3.7 Engine failure, lost all drive


Oli18
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Hi chaps,

Well, this is how i spent last night in the run up to the new year...

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Right, so i'm 90% sure i reckon my box has finally gone but i just wanted to double check the symptoms with you just to be sure...

So, there i was doing about 20mph coming off a mini roundabout. I put my foot down slightly and it shifted down 1 gear and that's when i heard what sounded like a big metal snap/bang and the car stopped pulling in gear immediately. I pulled over straight away.

The noise sounded like really big pieces of clunking metal coming from the box and the car died immediately. I tried restarting it, it fires but the clucking stops it from actually starting, no matter which gear i'm in.

The thing that makes me only 95% sure that it's the gearbox is that I don't have any limp mode buttons or anything showing up on the dash as many have mentioned in the past.

I did a VAG-COM test on the car and it came back with the following...

Address 01 -------------------------------------------------------

Controller: 4D0 907 560 F

Component: 3.7L V8/5V G 0001

Coding: 05753

Shop #: WSC 00000

WAUZZZ4DZYN009443 AUZ7Z0X1250135

1 Fault Found:

17745 - Camshaft Position Sensor (G40): Short to Ground

P1337 - 35-00 - -

Readiness: 0000 0000

Address 02 -------------------------------------------------------

Controller: 4D0 927 156 AF

Component: AG5 01V 3.7l5V RdW 2526

Coding: 00001

Shop #: WSC 02314

1 Fault Found:

17125 - Torque Converter Clutch Circuit Performance or Stuck Off.

P0741 - 35-00 - -

I reckon it's the box finally having packed up after 170k. it's not bad considering it's the original box! I've been saving for it for a while now as i was expecting it but still a **** time it being right at xmas and it happening on new years eve.

If it is definitely the box, i'll give these guys a ring vmtp.com that Treetotreef used when his box failed who are 14 miles up the road and hope they give me the same great deal and service they gave him.

Anyway, the poor AA chap had to help push the beast into a parking spot while the gf used all muscles she had in her arms to turn it full lock about a million times during a 20-point turn! It really makes you value power steering when i get it again!

Anyway, would be great to hear your thoughts. Hopefully i'll be up and running again soon. I'll keep you posted on progress +++

-Oli

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Oh no Olie, sorry to hear of your news fella.:(

some info about the codes: just got to pop out and pick up the wife will be back soon:

PS when did you last check for codes before this happened?

17745

Bank 1, Hall sender -G163

Short to earth

- Short to earth in wiring between Hall sender -G163 and engine control unit

- No engine power at full throttle

- Exhaust emission values not OK

- High fuel consumption

- Use current flow diagram to eliminate short circuit

- -G163 defective

- Faulty signal input in engine control unit (control unit defective)

(Only has an effect in the event of simultaneous failure of -G40 and -G163)

- -Check -G163

=>Page 24-26

17125 P0741

ATF -oil level not OK

Defective or incorrect converter

- Check ATF-oil level

Clutch for converter bridging

No power transfer

Mechanical defect in pressure control valve 4 -N218 1)

Problems with ATF oil supply to pressure control valve 4 -N2181)

Valve for converter pressure defective

Valve for converter clutch defective

Continued ▼

- Read measured value block =>Page

1) The pressure control valve 4 -N218 is also designated as solenoid valve 7 -N94.

2) When selecting measured value block, note what type of hydraulic control the gearbox features. A more detailed description can be found from Page 01-189 => under "Reading measured value block".

Output on VAS 5051

Possible causes of fault

Fault remedy

17125 P0741

Clutch for converter bridging

(Fault 17125 / P0741 continued)

Clutch for converter bridge, defective, worn out.

No power transfer

Electrical activation of pressure control valve 4 -N218 1) defective

- Carry out fault remedy according to fault code 18237 / 18238

Edited by Ska
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Hi Oli, terrible news man. The only input I can add is that I used VM transmissions too when mine went, and can recommend them. I'm sure you've read through Treetotreef's thread numerous times, so you'll have read the way mine went.

Hope the new year brings you better days with your 8, best wishes bud.

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My initial thought is that it sounds like the Torque Converter has broken and not the whole box - I say this because the engine stalled as well; Though the Hall sensor is also intreguing (will have a look at some wiring diagrams later). If any case I would stop trying to start it.

Are there any physical signs of ATF/damage externaly? If you decide on VM Transmissions give me a shout it's literaly a couple of miles up the road - The bloke you want to speak to there is Parish we could gang up on him or something.

Edited by Ska
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Hi Ska and DJstrange!

Thanks for the replies so far.

Ska- i reckon you're right about the torque converter....that's what it feels like to me atleast but i'm no expert...just pure gut feeling.

There is no sign of atf fluid under the car either.

I am going to call VM Transmission tomorrow. What did you have in mind Ska? does yours need doing too?

Happy New Year by the way!!!! Let's hope 2009 brings some better motoring :)

-Oli

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whats all this gearbox talk?? im new to the a8 but this seems to be a major thing, should i be worried?? is there anything you can do to limit the chance of this happening??

thanks

phil

A8 gearboxs - randomly go bang when you don't want them to at reasonably hi miles.. or don't, but might.. some last for ever.. but some don't..

(You get the picture - preventitve as Ska says is the main key - I am starting to sweat at 145k without a recent ATF change!)

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You're looking around the same price anyway - as you need 9 litres or so of ATF! - and the filter, gasket and O ring. There is a very specific procedure to do this - the car has to be off the ground, level and able to run in gear (brake pedal pressed obviously) - oil out, strainer changed AND O RING, back on, oil in with special pump normally home made, start the car - top up oil, shift gears to fill torque convertor, top up again .. check etc etc.. unless you are I would say 'very confident' at DIY spanners, it maybe worth an Indi doing it. Very good procedure on Audipages.com tells you all about it.

Edited by harpersimon
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sounds interesting, maybes a trip to the garage for that one then! is this common to all gearboxes, i do seem to remember reading someting about this before i got the car, it was something to do with 4 and 5 speed boxes, the later 5 speeds being a bit softer, i may have miss read this so correct me if im wrong. +++

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Audi will tell you that the gearbox is a sealed unit and never needs the oil changing, then they realised it does and put it in the service manual on some later models I believe. Stealer experience of this isn't good - recent post from a member is a nightmare when g'box went bang post dealer service. There are some good indi's about though, a list was compiled recently.. you should find the post in the front page or second if its just been tipped over. Recommendation is every 40k miles - some (like mine) have never been changed and are as smooth as silk. There is a difference between boxes that are liable to go but I can't remember what way round. I think the non quattro boxes are worked less hard, and 4 speed boxes last longer. Sure someone will confirm that

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4 speeders are more robust thean the 5 speeders but the procedure for ATF change is the same.

If your DIYing you'll need an assistant but as Simon says its proly better to get it done at a garage as the ATF temperature has to be monitored to maintain 35 degrees celcius due the change.

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oh well looks like a trip to a garage then! im going to be waiting for something to go bang now! suppose its one of those things you cant do much about, if its gona go it will, no matter what car i get theres always an issue with someting so i wouldnt be right if the a8 was indestructable! ;)

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Sorry to hear about your gearbox Oli, not a good way to end 2008. My gearbox also went on Christmas day and I know what a pain it can be. Hope you get it sorted soon, keep us posted and perhaps you could ask that company if they would do us a 'bulk discount' for doing two 8 boxes? Lastly Happy New Year everyone!

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Er.. due to clunking and dying engine and not starting - its not the cambelt is it? Just a thought..

Hey harpersimon,

i think that's ok...the belt was changed only last year and it still seems to be on it properly.

I take it you thought it might have snapped?

See here some pics of the belt...

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3157708826_c74aa97748.jpg

-oli

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Oli isn't that the serpentine/poly/ribbed belt? Not sure if thats the timing (toothed) belt; you have to pop off the the black covers on say one of the cams at the top to see that one.

audipages Timing Belt Replacement

Oops, i think you may be right...i thought i saw 2 different belts there and assumed 1 was the cambelt...just shows my level of mechanical knowledge! :o

I'll try to have another look and see - thanks for pointing it out though! +++

-Oli

Edited by Oli18
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Sorry to hear about your gearbox Oli, not a good way to end 2008. My gearbox also went on Christmas day and I know what a pain it can be. Hope you get it sorted soon, keep us posted and perhaps you could ask that company if they would do us a 'bulk discount' for doing two 8 boxes?

Hey Jugga!

Sorry to hear about your gearbox too mate! I'm having trouble getting through to the guys as VMTP (i guess it will have to wait till monday) but will definitely ask about discount for 2 and let you know.

-oli

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