Jennifer Posted October 17, 2005 Report Share Posted October 17, 2005 I have a 6 week old MKv GTI. which I think I have washed 6 times. Here is my procedure 1. Megs NXT wash using lambs wool wash mit 2. dry with Megs drying towel. 3. Megs NXT wax applied with foam applicator and removed with microfiber cloths. Looks good when I have finished apart from a few light scratches that have appeared, Only really notice when the street lights shine on it but I would like to prevent many more appearing. I know I am bound to get a few light scratches but was hoping to avoid them, any ideas guys? what is the best way to remove them ( scratch X?) or can I get them out with polish. Since getting the car I have waxed after every wash, when should I use polish and what polish do you recommend? Got the week off so going to spend at least one of the mornings doing inside and out. Also, what is the best stuff to use on the plastic on the bumper and on the sills? can't decide between Autoglyms Bumper Care or the megs Back to black. I just want to keep it looking nice not overly shiney. Oh and another question whats the best stuff to use when cleaning the dash and other plastic in the car. I want to keep it looking like when I bought it, I hate the shiney look. Just need something to get rid of the shoe scuff marks in the door inserts whithout making it all shiney. any recommendations. Thanks Guys Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
runflat Posted October 17, 2005 Report Share Posted October 17, 2005 As for the dashboard, I too hate the shiny look and use nice and basic Halfords eggshell/matt finish. I think they still do it. It works really well and doesn't streak if you use sparingly. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnss8 Posted October 17, 2005 Report Share Posted October 17, 2005 Dashboard i use Megs Quik Interior just mist and wipe,really easy and a nice mat finish Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andy_PC Posted October 17, 2005 Report Share Posted October 17, 2005 OK. Firstly, NXT has mild cleaners in it so I suspect you're actually removing the last layer each time you wax. I believe NXT can take maybe 2 layers but after that it's a bit of a waste TBH. As winter's approaching, I'd suggest a mild polish such as Poorboys Pro (fairly easy to use by hand and works well) then Meguiars #21 sealant with a wax on top. As for when to polish that's simple - when it needs it! If there's no scratches or other issues, leave well alone as most polishes will remove any wax and most sealants so again it's a lot of effort for nowt. Bumpers - no question, Meguiars #38. Bit more expensive than AG but well worth it as it leaves a proper factory finish and seems good durability-wise. Dash & interior - either Meguiars Quick Interior QD or Poorboys Natural Look. All the above available from C&S with your TSN discount too - can't do better IMHO!! HTH Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnss8 Posted October 17, 2005 Report Share Posted October 17, 2005 Andy spot on with the 38 got some after reading one of your other post's. Good stuff Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Avus_Bub Posted October 17, 2005 Report Share Posted October 17, 2005 I agree with Andy about the 'if it aint broke don't try to fix it approach' Just one point though and I seem to be banging on about it this week - If you're getting swirls then try to jet wash the car first before you give it a 'hand job' It makes all the difference IMO [ QUOTE ] Oh and another question whats the best stuff to use when cleaning the dash and other plastic in the car. I want to keep it looking like when I bought it, I hate the shiney look. Just need something to get rid of the shoe scuff marks in the door inserts whithout making it all shiney. [/ QUOTE ] I NEVER use any product on the dash and interior plastics other than a clean wet synthetic leather and a clean dry microfibre. My dash still looks as good as the day I picked the car up BUB Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NeilB Posted October 17, 2005 Report Share Posted October 17, 2005 Baby wipes are great for the dash, brings it up a treat. If they can remove baby then a bit of dust is no problem at all. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andy_PC Posted October 18, 2005 Report Share Posted October 18, 2005 I'd agree with Avus - removing as much surface dust & dirt as you can will help reduce wash damage for sure. I don't use a pressure washer myself following an incident with a nozzle working loose and firing into the side of a BMW - I stick with a normal hose now, it just takes a lot longer to do the initial rinse!! And remember to use plenty of water - I've seen too many people use a single mitt-ful of soapy water to soap the entire side of a car which is crazy IMHO - I generally use a mitt per panel, rinsing as I go using the 2 (or more) bucket method. If it would help, I have written a basic wash guide for another forum - happy to post it here. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jennifer Posted October 18, 2005 Author Report Share Posted October 18, 2005 The basic wash guide would be good. Think I will get a pressure washer, doesn't need to be too fancy just enough umpf to blast the dirt off, will have to get saving. couldn't identify the poors boys stuff mentioned above, could you post a picture? Also should I polish, couldn't work out from your post whether should or not. Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andy_PC Posted October 18, 2005 Report Share Posted October 18, 2005 Will sort guide out tonight! The Poorboys Pro Polish may not be on C&S's site - try emailing John for a price/availability. I'd polish to a) remove any small scratches and b) to give you a decent base for your sealant/wax etc. Only then polish where & when needed and re-seal afterwards. HTH Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NeilScarrott Posted October 18, 2005 Report Share Posted October 18, 2005 Have to agree with Andy, Megs #38 (John at C&S can sort you out with this) is really nice, I used this on bumpers and wheels, you don't need much, it'll last ages. For the interior dash I use 303 Aerospace protectant, quite expensive stuff, they market it like sun screen, protects against UV. Have used this on my dash every 4 weeks or so and does a really nice job, seems to keep the dust away nicely too. It doesn't give you the really shiny look, just the like new look. For a good wash guide have a look here... http://www.autopia.org/ebook/Washing%20&%20Drying.htm I always wash my rims first with a bucket and cloth which never goes near the paint. I also use the two bucket method on the paint, hosing it down before and after. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jennifer Posted October 18, 2005 Author Report Share Posted October 18, 2005 Can I use my NXT wax once I have polished and put on the #21 sealent or will it undo my work as it is a cleaner wax? can see this shopping trip is turning out to be quite expensive. All I wanted was Polish! But Hey Ho have to keep car looking good. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andy_PC Posted October 18, 2005 Report Share Posted October 18, 2005 TBH (REALLY honest!) I have a feeling that #21 is the pro version of NXT (can't remember where I read that though) but without any cleaners - i.e. a pure sealant. That said, I doubt that NXT would remove a polish whereas it will take away a glaze for sure. If you've polished out any scratches then NXT will be fine - it's just adding further layers which will be counter productive IMHO plus applying one sealant on top of another in my eyes is a bit of a waste of time - you could stick to NXT as it's not bad as a synthetic wax, but make sure your prep work is spot on first. My usual routine is as follows (and I've put some example product names in to help) Polish (Poorboys Pro or SSR range) Glaze (Vanilla Moose Wax Hand Glaze or Red Machine Glaze) Seal (Meguiars #21, NXT, Poorboys EX-P) Wax (P21S, Poorboys Nattys) It does get expensive, trust me! HTH Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andy_PC Posted October 18, 2005 Report Share Posted October 18, 2005 TBH I have a feeling that #21 is the pro version of NXT (can't remember where I read that though) but without any cleaners - i.e. a pure sealant. That said, I doubt that NXT would remove a polish whereas it will take away a glaze for sure. If you've polished out any scratches then NXT will be fine - it's just adding further layers which will be counter productive IMHO plus applying one sealant on top of another in my eyes is a bit of a waste of time - you could stick to NXT as it's not bad as a synthetic wax, but make sure your prep work is spot on first. My usual routine is as follows (and I've put some example product names in to help) Polish (Poorboys Pro or SSR range) Glaze (Vanilla Moose Wax Hand Glaze or Red Machine Glaze) Seal (Meguiars #21, NXT, Poorboys EX-P) Wax (P21S, Poorboys Nattys) It does get expensive, trust me! HTH Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jennifer Posted October 18, 2005 Author Report Share Posted October 18, 2005 Being a novice in Cleaning, I take it all polishes are abrasive? I am not sure I am keen to use one that is too abrasive, don't want to put in more light scratches than I have all ready. The SSR range says light abrasive will that be ok on my car given it is quite new? sorry about all the questions, just want to make sure I get it right. I may get some of that SSR stuff and some nattys wax, still can't decide, what do you recommend I apply the polish with, will a foam applicator be ok? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andy_PC Posted October 18, 2005 Report Share Posted October 18, 2005 My overall recommendation, taking into account that a) I've not seen the car myself and b) that you're working by hand would be to polish using Poorboys Pro Polish as the SSR range generally work better by machine, seal with NXT and top with Nattys Blue (for darker coloured cars) Polishes are generally split into 3 areas; Compounds - abrasive, for removal of heavy defects and usually machine only application. Good example Poorboys SSR3 or Meguiars DACP Milder compounds fall somewhere in between this and glazes (good example is Scratch X) Glaze - mildly abrasive, for filling in rather than removal of scratches and for adding depth to paint colour. Good example Vanilla Moose Hand Glaze Pure - non abrasive and only for replenishing paint and prep before waxing to remove any old wax. Good example P21S GEPC Clear as mud?! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
runflat Posted October 18, 2005 Report Share Posted October 18, 2005 [ QUOTE ] Being a novice in Cleaning, I take it all polishes are abrasive? I am not sure I am keen to use one that is too abrasive, don't want to put in more light scratches than I have all ready. The SSR range says light abrasive will that be ok on my car given it is quite new? sorry about all the questions, just want to make sure I get it right. I may get some of that SSR stuff and some nattys wax, still can't decide, what do you recommend I apply the polish with, will a foam applicator be ok? [/ QUOTE ] Not sure anyone has realy answered this question yet. Any views? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jennifer Posted October 18, 2005 Author Report Share Posted October 18, 2005 I was thinking that also....... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OGWT Posted October 20, 2005 Report Share Posted October 20, 2005 Andy PC that washing guide would be an invaluable resource to this forum JonM Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andy_PC Posted October 21, 2005 Report Share Posted October 21, 2005 Sorry for not answering the "are all polishes abrasive?" question - simple answer is YES. They range in abrasiveness from mild to aggresive - like I said before, I'm sure Brazo has a scale/guide showing what fits where. Super Resin is a bit of a Red Herring IMHO as it's more a cleaner wax than a polish - i.e. it offers protection aswell as cleaning ability. The SSR range is not what I'd call "light" personally - SSR2's not so bad but 2.5 & 3 are not what I'd recommend for regular use. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OGWT Posted October 21, 2005 Report Share Posted October 21, 2005 Polish abrasive ability 1-5 (polish and foam pad used will also effect the abrasivness of the polish)The abrasion or cutting ability of a foam pad relative to its composition (number of pores per inch) The work is approximately distributed, 60% product, 30% foam composition (PPI) and 10% pressure applied and/or speed of rotation or oscillation. 1.Compound / Cutting Pad (*Yellow)-a harder more dense foam composition with an abrasive cutting action, for use with a medium abrasive polish, Machine Polish 1 or 2, Swirl Mark Remover, or Autoglym Paint Renovator Polish (Speed number 4-5) 2.Levelling Pad (* White foam/wool) - used to cut or level a paint film surface with an abrasive machine polish (compound) or to apply a polish to large areas. Wool pads naturally run cooler than foam; the most important thing is the type of blend and materials used. 3.Polish / Light Cutting Pad (*Orange)-a mid range, high density foam composition with a medium abrasive cutting action, for use with a Swirl Mark Remover, Pre-Wax Paint Cleaner, Klasse All-In-One, or Autoglym Super Resin Polish (Speed number 4) 4.Polish / Waxing Pad (*White)-a softer less dense foam composition with a light abrasive cutting action, for use with a Swirl Mark Remover, Pre-Wax Paint Cleaner, Klasse All-In-One, or Autoglym Super Resin Polish (Speed number 4) 5.Finishing Pad (*Black)-an ultra-smooth foam that has no abrasive cutting ability, for use with Klasse High Sealant Gloss, Autoglym Extra Gloss Protection, Zanio Z-2 or Z-5 or a Glaze (Speed number 3) JonM Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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