Jimbob_S3 Posted May 7, 2006 Report Share Posted May 7, 2006 Hi all, My 210 S3 is currently rather sluggish. The boost isnt significant at around 3000 rpm as it should / has been. Its been like this for a couple of weeks. Ive just put a new DV on the car and its exactly the same, so its not that. Unplugged the MAF and drove the car for a couple of miles and it drove exactly the same - no different. Is the MAF knackered? I had a new one only last summer (apporx 10,000miles ago)?? No engine mangement light came on, but when I plugged the MAF back in the car is now running very lumpy but still not powerful.. Plugged into VAGcom a couple of days ago and there are no fault codes. Any advice on next step??- going to try clean the MAF i think when ive got the right tools to get it out its sluggish enough to say that i struggled to drive away from a citroen C3 on motorway slip road... Cheers! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul Posted May 7, 2006 Report Share Posted May 7, 2006 Mafs can fail at any point, but usually the unplug trick flags it up as it runs better. Some things i would definitely do.. I would log the MAF to see the airflow at peak rpm and see what grams/sec your getting. Described here: http://www.wak-tt.com/vagcom/vagcomamm.htm a standard 180 TT is about 140+g/s a standard 225 TT/S3 is about 170+g/s a remapped 225 TT/S3 is about 200+g/s so a standard 210 S3 would be somewhere between these figures, heading towards the 170's. I would also do a throttle body reset.. teaching the Drive by wire throttle, fully open and fully closed. Described Here: http://www.wak-tt.com/vagcom/vagcomthrottlebodyadapt.htm and sometimes the cooling sensor can cock up fueling. I changed mine myself in 5 mins flat for the green revised version, obviously Audi had some issues with the earlier black versions. IIRC these had a habbit of not throwing a fault code, (although mine did give an intermittant one) and they improved/revised this with the green version. Described Here: http://www.wak-tt.com/tempsensor/tempsensor.htm Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jimbob_S3 Posted May 7, 2006 Author Report Share Posted May 7, 2006 Thanks Paul. I will log the MAF. Just need to borrow my mates laptop again, then I'll do the throttle reset and the logging. also had a new temperature sensor last year. Old one failed and it caused a DTC, I assume its been replaced with the green type? Not checked, I'll have a look. Cheers! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul Posted May 7, 2006 Report Share Posted May 7, 2006 should be able to see if its green by where the plug/ circlip goes on the body. Mine is a 2003 car and didnt have the new green type until I fitted it. btw, have you changed the air filter? Audi dont replace it until after nearly 40K mile intervals!! only every other AVS service. (the larger one) I replace mine every 10K miles. They cost about £8 quid. Worth dropping one in, if you cant remember when it was last done. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jimbob_S3 Posted May 7, 2006 Author Report Share Posted May 7, 2006 Paul, Yes - it had an air filter around xmas time, so its probably not that. I'll try cleaning the MAF on tuesday when ive bought the screwdrivers to remove it... - Just checked. Its got the Green Sensor. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TommyL Posted May 8, 2006 Report Share Posted May 8, 2006 hi i think i'm havein these problems to not all the time just on ocasion turbo stops pullin fells like it goes limp for a few seconds also shakes like a missfire allmost like when my ignighter coils went could you post a pic of the cooling senser for me c if its green or not would be really helpfull thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jimbob_S3 Posted May 8, 2006 Author Report Share Posted May 8, 2006 Can post a pic, but will be later in week now. Alternatively see the link above from Paul. Its located in the engine block fairly close to the battery - its only small. If you cant see anything green in that area then assume its black!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TommyL Posted May 8, 2006 Report Share Posted May 8, 2006 thanks checked it, it was green so doubt its that must be the air flow sensor which is it tho there looks like to plugs going to the hose after the air filter i think its the 1 nearest to the filter where can i buy 1 from audi said £100 odd quid! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul Posted May 8, 2006 Report Share Posted May 8, 2006 MAF aka Mass Air Flow sensor (G70) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TommyL Posted May 8, 2006 Report Share Posted May 8, 2006 thanks paul thought it was, would a aftermarket 1 be ok or should i buy from audi ? and how much should i be payin cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mollox Posted May 8, 2006 Report Share Posted May 8, 2006 £90 from Audi on an exchange basis and you can fit it yourself no problem in 10 mins Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul Posted May 8, 2006 Report Share Posted May 8, 2006 I wouldnt fit an aftermarket one. Its a critical sensor. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
uk_spek Posted May 9, 2006 Report Share Posted May 9, 2006 Come on Jimbob, The suspense is killing me!!! Whats happened next.... Got the same problem, so going to try the DV and if that does'nt sort it, try the MAF trick (unplug it and run for a couple of miles). It has happened before, where I have gone down on power for a short time after quick shifting at higher revs, but it usually sorts itself out. Hoping its just the jelly bosch DV. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jimbob_S3 Posted May 9, 2006 Author Report Share Posted May 9, 2006 [ QUOTE ] Mafs can fail at any point, but usually the unplug trick flags it up as it runs better. Some things i would definitely do.. I would log the MAF to see the airflow at peak rpm and see what grams/sec your getting. Described here: http://www.wak-tt.com/vagcom/vagcomamm.htm a standard 180 TT is about 140+g/s a standard 225 TT/S3 is about 170+g/s a remapped 225 TT/S3 is about 200+g/s so a standard 210 S3 would be somewhere between these figures, heading towards the 170's. I would also do a throttle body reset.. teaching the Drive by wire throttle, fully open and fully closed. Described Here: http://www.wak-tt.com/vagcom/vagcomthrottlebodyadapt.htm and sometimes the cooling sensor can cock up fueling. I changed mine myself in 5 mins flat for the green revised version, obviously Audi had some issues with the earlier black versions. IIRC these had a habbit of not throwing a fault code, (although mine did give an intermittant one) and they improved/revised this with the green version. Described Here: http://www.wak-tt.com/tempsensor/tempsensor.htm [/ QUOTE ] Paul, OK, Ive run some diagnostics. Throttle body reset, car was no different, but an error code was show on VAGcom relating to MAF. 16486 - Mass Air Flow Sensor (G70): Signal too Low P0102 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent I assumed this was because I disconnected the MAF the other day. So I logged the boost and MAF g/s as suggested. Did a couple of runs to 6500 RPM, on 2 runs the g/s hit around 155. only on one run did it hit 165. Should I achieve the 160+ figure consistently? Also after the first run the MAF fault code returned but not after any subsequent runs. I also noted that the boost requested is never being met by the actual boost at intercooler, which I beleive it should be according to the link ? Any further advice? Was going to try cleaning the MAF but havent got the correct bit to remove it Cheers! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul Posted May 9, 2006 Report Share Posted May 9, 2006 The 5 star torx bit its a rare bugger to find. Even in security bit kits. I havent found one yet, and i was looking at getting one, just in case. As for the Maf it will vary , mine did, dependant on atmosheric pressures. I had mine changed because i was getting 190's only to get the same on a brand new one. for example, a cold frosty day will flow better than a hot humid one. So take it all with a pinch of salt. I would keep an eye on that MAF fault though. I would expect it from unplugging it and doing a run without, but it shouldnt come back. And point being, unless you scannned before you unplugged it, you wouldnt know if it was caused by you, or there already. actual vs requested ive never been that confident with the results and never been brilliant with excel and graphs. I do know that requested Vs Actual, shouldnt actually meet, but should be near. If there is a boost leak, and the difference is too large (i forget the limit) it throws an error code. Ive never seen that code in mine, so rather than be paranod at pages and pages of data, i dont usually bother. The reason I dont bother with the boost readings is its all to easy to mis interpret them and get paranoid with the results. Which bits do you disregard, Is it right, is it wrong, whats up with it etc. I would be tempted to get the MAF changed. Certainly watch out for that fault code. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
uk_spek Posted May 9, 2006 Report Share Posted May 9, 2006 Paul....1 question. If I unplug the MAF, will it bugger it up. I know Jimbob said that after he unplugged it, it ran lumpy. I was just checking before I go destroying my engine... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul Posted May 9, 2006 Report Share Posted May 9, 2006 no, it will likely record an error to the ecu. Worst case, drop the battery to clear it, if you havent got vagcom. The idea is, to see if the car runs better without the MAF connected. BRIEFLY. Dont expect full performance, just better/smoother running than with a possible faulty MAF Thats the idea, its not full proof, but its a good indicator if the car runs better without. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jimbob_S3 Posted May 9, 2006 Author Report Share Posted May 9, 2006 Thanks Paul. Yes, I think you could come hung up on the figures and foolishy i didnt read for error codes before I unplugged the MAF (Because i didnt have the laptop). Outside temp in car tonight was showing at 29C which is pretty warm and may have affected tests. I'll keep an eye on it, but i know sometimes it performs poor and other times its quick... That MAF may well be on its way out, may end up just swapping it out of curiosity !! Cheers! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
uk_spek Posted May 9, 2006 Report Share Posted May 9, 2006 Cool. Will let you know what happens. Will have to look at getting VAG COM. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
uk_spek Posted May 12, 2006 Report Share Posted May 12, 2006 OK. Changed Diverter valve as I thought it might be the original one at fault. Still no joy. Disconnected the MAF and did'nt feel any different, infact felt slightly more sluggish. Could the problem have stemmed from a fuel cleaner I put in? I used some slick 50 stuff that was safe for turbo/Cats. All of these problems happened after I put it in. Coincidence? I have put a full tank of optimax in now (well as much as would fit- 44 litres). Any ideas chaps?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
uk_spek Posted May 12, 2006 Report Share Posted May 12, 2006 Forgot to mention that the power came back briefly after taking the car on a run to see if it was the fuel cleaner that was causing the problems. I took it up towards Torquay which is about 20 miles away. The power then suddenly came back for about 40 miles, then when I was pulling up the hill in exactly the same place as if first went, it went again! Spooky. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul Posted May 12, 2006 Report Share Posted May 12, 2006 it could be the cleaner, the car will adapt to the fuel you have got. its quick to adapt to crap fuel, and less quick to react/learn on better fuel. If you think you have flushed it out, you could always drop the battery and power down the ecu , so it goes through its leaning process again. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
uk_spek Posted May 12, 2006 Report Share Posted May 12, 2006 One step ahead Paul mate....more by luck than judgement though...lol Changed the valve as above, but then tried the MAF unplug trick. No luck there, but left the fault code up on the dash (the traction control icon). I remember being told to unplug the battery for 10 mins to clear it off, so did that whilst I sloped inside to book myself into a garage. Came back out and plugged it all in again and went to pick up the missus from her place and low and behold...... I HAVE POWER AGAIN....YAY!!!! Cheers for all the help anyway guys.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.