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CV Boot


Durrsaku
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I did mine recently. Difficult to remove the top suspension bolt if it has never been removed before, you will need to replace so get one as it isn't in the kit. VW use a special tool to remove. I had to soak in WD-40 and apply gentle heat with a micro torch as it was rusted in. Absolute pig to get out. Put Waxoyl on new pin on assembly.

You will also need to remove the drive shaft centre bolt needing the correct sized Allen tool which needs a long lever to undo and tighten.

Don't know of any 'dodges' although used to be able to do Golfs and earlier Passats (Macpherson strut) leaving the CV joint in the hub. Probably not possible with this complicated multi link suspension. Sure someone on here will tell you?

Snapon do an excellent drive shaft bolt tool. Certainly easier to rebuild driveshaft CV/replace boot when on the bench. (Think that the new grease supplied with kit is not compatible with the old? Must have seen that somewhere?)

Presume plastic cone tool is to get new boot over splines? Never seen one and with care I have had no problems. Best of luck and avoid driving over branches on the road which I think caused mine to rip as the other side is still ok.

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Thank you for the reply. I am wondering to leave this till weekend to do now but was puzzled if i would need to change the joint at all? I had the car serviced 3 months ago and the boot was fine then. I have no click sounds from it so i am hoping it will be ok. Do i need to get the shaft out completely?

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Easy to dismantle CV joint to remove all old grease and to rebuild. Just mark all parts and replace the six balls in their respective positions. Think is covered in Haynes, basically the two cages need to be replaced in their original positions in the outer case and the balls also.

The other point to mention is to ensure the driveshaft spline is locked into the hub so that the new 'C' washer locates into the hidden groove in the hub when all is finished.

The pinch bolt will need WD-40 and gentle heat to the surrounding casting, shieldind the arm ball joint rubbers from heat. Loosen the pinch bolt nut and add another so you can lock these nuts to the pinch bolt.

I've found it best to turn the whole pinch bolt clockwise/anti-clockwise alternately with spanners at both ends rather than just trying to undo the head of the bolt which if siezed solid will eventually snap off. (Is this what you have done?)

By knocking the second nut you have locked onto the pinchbolt thread it will protect the thread and should 'eventually' loosen the pinchbolt from the rust holding it. Clean out the two pinching cuts in the casting first to get the WD-40 in and be patient as it can be very frustrating! I spent an hour getting mine out.

If the bolt head has sheared off you may have to resort to a Vise-Grip on the exposed thread and if that fails to drill out and drift out what is left! Best of luck.

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Yes, i am finding that too. I will have to replace the upper arms now because the ball joints are bust. £30 each.

Still cant get the ABS Sensor out of the hub carrier though. Anyone has a diagram of where this wire goes to? i need to disconect without damaging it as i can't afford to buy a new one. Help. confused.gif

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The ABS sensor just pulls out, its held in by an odd looking copper sleeve. I know this because mine actually came out by accident when i was replacing the arms. I was driving around for weeks afterwards with my abs warning coming on occasionally.

Solved the problem when my mate noticed it looked a bit dodgy, and pushed it back in with his finger.

It is actually possible to do the work without taking the abs sensor off.

when you bolt the top arms back to the shocker..... make sure you put them back in relation to the angle they would be in while under load. If you fail to do this they will wear the bushes out rather quick.

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It's as well you are replacing the top arms too since if you used too much heat with a 'gas welding torch' you will probably have knackered the plastic/nylon ball seating within the ball joint, apart from ruining the rubber cover which doesn't look too good in the above pic.

Suggest wire brushing pinch bolt assembly on the other side, spray with WD 40 and then cover with Waxoyl. Hopefully when you have to do that side it will be less of a problem.

Have seen a tool made by Klann Tools to remove the pinch bolt but no idea what it costs?

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