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[Audi A3/S3] Difference between chipped and non-chipped?


bpsmith
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This is a major stupid question to those who have driven both chipped and non-chipped cars or got their car in standard form and then chipped them, but just how would you tell the difference between the two?

I obviously know what the difference physically is, but I want to know more about what speeds you can get in each gear without going over 6k revs and also what the car feels like when driving?

The reason for asking is that I got my car from the dealers in "standard form" and have added a K&N elemnt and AMD Viper DV only and the aspects of driving the car dont sound like that of a standard one!?! Other people have said on here that the car dies in power when going over 4k compared to the chipped version which gets better after 4k. My car seems to improve after 4k so that is strange?

Serious answers please as I want to save for a chip but wont bother if mine turns out to be chipped in some form?

Perhaps I should contact the previous owner to check possibly, as I am the second keeper. There are no rolling roads to test it on that I know of close by so that is out of the question for now at least.

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Sorry I can't answer the question but maybe you can help me! I've just bought an 02 S3 and (because I also ride bikes) the first thing I want to do is stick a K&N in it as I've always found they help with pick-up. Where did you get yours from?

Mine is a 225bhp version - can they be chipped even higher? At what point do they become fragile?

Is the chipping purely a power thing or does it contain improved fuel (and ignition?)maps to give better torque?

Thanks in anticipation

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1. both of you... please be aware that K and N contain oils.

These oils, esp when cleaned and re oiled... have been known to contaminate the MAF which is expensive to replace, and can be catastrophic(worse case senario) if it fails.

as for chipped/unchipped....

ive had a standard S3, then chipped it, and now back to standard one (not for long)

its hard to decribe if you havent had a standard one, or think you might have a chipped one... main thing is the noise and whooosh of the turbo. its much more pronounced on a chipped motor. Revs climb much much faster.

when i switched from chipped to standard mode, it really was a huge difference. It was like the wind had been taken out my sails, and i was dragging an anchor.

now i been standard with my latest S3 since may, i dont feel its slow, but i know its capable of much much more...

easiest way to see if it is modded, is go out with somone with vag com and log it. Boost pressure will show a remap.

as will maf figures i believe.

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[ QUOTE ]

Sorry I can't answer the question but maybe you can help me!

[/ QUOTE ]

I did not expect to be giving advice out rather than receiving it when posting this but no problem, I will tell you the limited info I know:

I go tmy K&N from German,Swedish and French who were close by and by far the cheapest I have found before and after. I went for the element only to keep the standard look under the bonnet and was also advised that this was the better way due to the ECU set for the standard system.

The chip adjust s a lot of aspects of the car including boost level and timing; also the maps can be set for improved fuel too to give that little extra. Although I do believe that most people on here use Optimax in standard setups anyway. Hope this helps?

There have been anumber of posts fairly recently regarding the options you can go for and the tuners to check out. Just do a quick search back a few pages and you will find some brilliant posts! AMD list this on their page for the S3:

Stage 1 (210bhp/225bhp models) ECU remap - to include rolling road time, before and after power and torque plots. Performance gains approx. 60-65bhp(210 models) 40-45bhp(225 models) and 60-65lbs/ft(210 models) 40-45lbs/ft(225 models) torque. 6 months warranty on engine, gearbox and differential.

I only chose to show AMD's option as this is what I may go for myself as very pleased with their DV and heared good things about them. This is not to say that I would not go to anyone else as do not have any practical experience with anyone including AMD.

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I have already been advised of the technical gains I would receive from chipping but would like to know how I would know whether the car is in standard or in chipped form as not sure?

Is it worth getting a VAGcom also? I know I can check this out then, but is it really worth it for other things?

I have got a 1.8T Sport incidentally, as dont think I mentioned it before?

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other way of finding out is...

esp if its an older car ... pre serial port remaps...

access your ecu, take lid off and look at board. even to the untrained eye, APR, and AMD chips are clearly visiable by their encription modules, or in aprs case EMCS board.

most chips you will see evidence off. if its the old style remap.

datalogging is the easiest.

I rate vagcom, Ive seen its uses and benifits but havent got it or use it myself yet.

Only cos i have to buy a laptop on top of a lead, and i not got round to it yet.

But it is on my list of things to have. Its the tool to have esp with modded cars

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Thanks Paul, but how do I get access to the ECU? Whereabouts is it situated?

I have access to a laptop from work until I get my own. I have seen the leads on ebay for £80 but no software is with them. Where can I download the software from or do I need to purchase it?

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ecu (on S3) but assume is same for you is under the scuttle pannel beneath the wipers.

you have to remove the wiper arms and scuttle pannel. If you look on around APR's sites, you should see a instruction how to do it...

as for leads, ive seen DIY ones for as little as £60, software is downloadable, and works, for free, you pay for the full version, with all the fault codes and modules available.

its called VAG-COM

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bpsmith,

If your A3 was chipped then it will have serious shove at about 2500-3000 RPM, in most cases about 210-220 lb/ft torque, which will feel pretty bleeding rapid. A standard car will have a small kick at this time but will be really linear and not excite greatly.

Depending on what you have driven previously, a chipped A3 will do the 0-60 dash in the mid 6's which you should really notice tongue.gif

To be honest, a quick stint on the rollers should tell all if you are still in doubt.

And on the S3 front, there are hundereds of people belting around the UK in cars with @265BHP with no issues, the increase in torque is a peach in particualar grin.gif

Cheers

Ben

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BP, I'm capable of a 0-60 of 6.49 seconds if that's any help, if your RPM keeps rapidly rising above 5k then it's a good chance you're chipped. I would suggest seeing if you can take a look at the ECU if not inside it, as quite often a sticker is applied to the casing or the chip will be marked.

As stated earlier in this post K&N filters and MAFs do not go together and if you're looking at filters then I'd suggest a stainless steel filter which requires no oil and is well renowned for use in JAP tuning. Jabbasport have one available with a stanless heatsheild, but the cheapest version I have seen is the one offered on the AS.net groupbuy section by Rich from JPR Performance. It comes with a nice carbon fibre heatsheild, similar to that of a BMC filter kit, but with a stainless steel filter instead of an oiled foam type.

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ok, it doesn't get better than this if you are looking for aproval for chipping.

go to www.evo.co.uk and click on DRIVEN, then click on ARCHIVES. You should find a review for a superchips chipped S3. Read it. Ring you chip dealer and book your car in.

another option is to ring any LISTERS Audi dealer (www.listersgroup.co.uk) and get your car chipped from them.

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ok, so this is what I get from my "standard" motor up to 6k revs and no more:

1st Gear: 40mph

2nd Gear: 60mph

3rd Gear: 80mph

4th Gear: 100mph

5th Gear: 135mph buts feels electronically limited?

If this is indeed what people get from a standard motor then I am extremely pleased with Audi's performance but absolutely cannot wait until next year to get it chipped if I can dramatically improve on this, which does not sound possible at the moment!?!

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Stay away from the K&N fileter and the likes. Not much in it and you have the MAF issue to contend with as well. Max 1 - 2 hp at the top end of the RPM scale - not worth the extra risk and cost.

I'm not sure what yoy mean when you ask what speed are obtainable below 6,000 RPM. The gearing is not cahnged and the speed at any given RPM will be the same. The rate of RPM climb will be higher with a chip above 3,000 RPM. Below this it might feel a bit slugish.

The different manufacturers have different profiles for the chips. This is important when it comes to drivability or seat of the pants feel. Personally I like the even pull to the red line, but some prefer the sledgehamer feeling in a narrow RPM band.

Try some different ones and see which chip fits your needs and driving style. Good luck! smile.gif

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