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AG Aqua Wax @ 4.5 weeks (BEADING PICS)


steelwind101
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Hi Guys,

The test car for the new AG Aqua Wax is at the four and a half week stage. It was some hwashed and clayed at the same time (to remove the previous product) then topped with Aqua wax while drying. Its been through sun here in London and then non stop rain over the last couple of days.

The car was washed at 2 weeks with Clearcote Carwash, this is JUST a car wash, not even any shine increasers. Then it was QD'd with Quick Shine when i dried, this is purely a shine enhancer.

Im impressed!! For a product that you apply when you dry and then buff off a few min later you cannot go wrong. It adds gloss, its very glossy and it has lost some of that gloss over the last 4-5 days. Its warm, even mellow wax that is really in contrast to the normal AG reflective look.

Today was suppose to be its second wash but still raining so i took some picks. A good one to add some looks during the winter or when you need a "quick" wax. It will no doubt improve more subtle sealants like EX-P (which i had on the car before).

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Geoff

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Looking good there Geoff. How do you find the Clearkote Shampoo? I used it last night and found it good - just wondered what your opinions are on it?

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Hi

Thanks for the comments. I like there shampoo but i think they know Quick Shine is so good they dont seem to have any gloss enhancers/conditioners in it. Not a problem if you QD when you dry. The good thing is you can use it and see exactly what your LSP looks like as it doesnt enhance it. Mine only has a light smell, a bit like salty water acutally!!

Geoff

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Hi Dave

Quik detailer and last touch are both "quick detailers" they are great for removing finger prints and dust from your car and can help in the aid of normal drying. QD's can also be used as clay lubricant.

Aqua Wax (AutoGlym or Duragloss) are really last stage protections, they happen to go on when the car is acutally wet. No QD is require during in this process though if you wanted ot i suppose you could buff off AG-AW with a good "looks biased" QD.

AG and Duragloss Aqua Wax are not the same product. Just share the same name.

Geoff

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Hi Tarmac

Very easy to apply. Its just simply a case of spraying on to a wet car one panel at a time. You then take an MF cloth (two are provided) and simply smear the product around mixing it with the water on the car. It dries to "light" haze in around 5 mins and its then just a really gentle buff with a clean MF cloth.

You dont have to be too careful about chasing off the water when you dry. Aqua wax doesnt apply to well on a dry car and certantly doesnt spread very easily. If your car is to wet you will saturate your MF quickly and have to ring it out. If you do this just ring it over a panel you have not AW'd already as the water is in the towel will be "waxie".

It works great on windows, i have avoid the windsceen.

Geoff

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Thanks Geoff...unusual application process but I'm gonna give it a go grin.gif

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It will be well worth it. I cant emphasize how important that the buff is. First time i tried it went around and dident really buff it very well. It was only later i found that removing the haze and then turning the cloth really works well!!

Geoff

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[ QUOTE ]

[ QUOTE ]

Thanks Geoff...unusual application process but I'm gonna give it a go grin.gif

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It will be well worth it. I cant emphasize how important that the buff is. First time i tried it went around and dident really buff it very well. It was only later i found that removing the haze and then turning the cloth really works well!!

Geoff

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beerchug.gif

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Good beading but they are too big for me and this means the wax is loosing it's effectiveness. It is all to do with surface tension and if the wax is good quality and lasting well like 915 or 845 this gives smaller tighter beading. As the wax degrades the beads get bigger as there is not enough wax to repell the water so the surface tension is reduce and you end up with bigger drops. It is good way to tell if your car needs waxing. Have a look in a car park where the cars are usually not waxed and you will see no beading at all. So while they look good to me the car needs more wax.

As for the wax sounds like a lazy man product and I can't see the point of trapping moisture between wax and bodywork. Surely the wax will not bond to the bodywork as well if there is water involved as the two repell each other.

Chemistry lesson over and if your happy with it then cool but not a product I would buy.

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Some intreasting points Mcgee

But also, dirt on the car like pollen this time of yr effects beading ALOT. This car wasnt washed of course!!

Also plenty of apply when wet products coming out, i think just dont like AG!! Obviously 915 and 845 are null and void in regard to application of this!!

Geoff

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[ QUOTE ]

Good beading but they are too big for me and this means the wax is loosing it's effectiveness. It is all to do with surface tension and if the wax is good quality and lasting well like 915 or 845 this gives smaller tighter beading. As the wax degrades the beads get bigger as there is not enough wax to repell the water so the surface tension is reduce and you end up with bigger drops. It is good way to tell if your car needs waxing.

[/ QUOTE ]

Top Tip! Thanks 169144-ok.gif

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I guess it all depends on what your looking for...I only cover about 3500 miles per year in my own car. Sometimes it doesn't come out of the garage for a fortnight. However, the paint work is almost swirl free and sealed. I just want a product that's easy and quick to apply every couple of months to give it a nice wet look and add some extra protection. I've yet to try this Aqua Wax but in theory it ticks all the boxes for me....time will tell 169144-ok.gif

My understanding is that when this product is applied to a wet car, you allow the moisture to evapourate hence leaving a coat of wax on the surface to buff. I can't see how it's trapping moisture into the paint.

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Geoff

Does the paintwork stilll feel silky smooth?

Mine does not which is quite annoying - after getting the car sealed/collinite 915'd and after every other wash using aqua wax I am not finding a silky finish on the paint work.

The car is my speed yellow porker so its not metallic.

Cheers

Tone

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  • 1 month later...

Despite buying some of this in May, I haven't had chance to apply it...until yesterday.

It did seem strange suggesting it should be applied to a wet car though. I roughly dried the car leaving just occasional water / damp on the surface.

The instructions said to apply sparingly which is always a bit ambiguous in my opinion for a trigger spray product. I actually think I applied it a little too thick as it took more effort than I anticipated to remove it and needed an extra MF.

It was cloudy when I finished it and I couldn't really deide if the car looked any better (already had a fairly recent coat of A/G EGP).

However, in this afternoon's sunshine, the paint looked very radiant and probably worth the extra effort. I know that many here find the AG polish / sealant prducts leave a very reflective finish which to an extent I can see. However, on my red car, I find it much less of an issue - perhaps darker colours more so.

The only thing putting me off using this stuff again is the ease of use. I reckon I may have applied a little too heavily but not certain. I could just have easily applied and removed an extra coat of Lifeshine in the same sort of time. How has anyone else found it?

Application time aside, I have decided that this does leave an improved appearance when applied on top of existing AG products - more noticeable in sunshine 169144-ok.gif

On a slightly separate note, I noticed a very tiny blemish (about 5mm x 5mm)under the lacquer I think on the tailgate? Upon very close inspection it almost looks like oil under the lacquer (multi colour sort of petroleum effect). Any ideas what this could be? As I say, it's very tiny but I've not noticed it before. It certainly doesn't appear to be any corrosion as I know it but just a little concerned in case it develops further. confused.gif

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Hi Tarmac!!

Great to hear you tried the AW, the reason why it was hard was down to the car not being wet enough....probably. I found that if the car starts to dry etc. Then the product doesnt spread and its almost like it requires the water to set it off properly other wise it is tough to remove.

I got it down to being a case of less about spreading the product and more about moving water and product over the car if that makes sense.

I also found that buffing the car up well was essential to get the deeper, wetter look.

I would apply two sprays across a wide/long bonnet, turn the cloth in to a 1/4 place in a wet part of the bonnet and move throug the product over the panel. It should all glide and work quite quickly.

Hmm!! Im not sure what your oil like spot under the clearcoat is. Did you wax over it to day?

Geoff

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Thanks 169144-ok.gif That probably explains it - I would apply 4-5 sprays over the bonnet / 6 on the roof etc and then spread.

I waxed over the 'oil' like patch as normal. Bit strange that, just hope it doesn't 'develop' crazy.gif

Also forgot to mention that the blue MF's supplied with the product slightly malted - only very slightly but you could see it on the paint under fluorescent lighting if you looked very closely. I then washed them on a 60 degree wash along with my megs towels and they shrunk around the edges! Still, should still be good for sealing the alloys with. grin.gif

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Hi Tarmac,

Sounds like lots of products going on, thats probably why you were taking longer then you had expected. I was going to say if you wash your car THEN notice marks like that and wonder how they got there then before you wax; fold and MF cloth in two, hang the cloth infront of the offending mark and with put your finger on top of the cloth on the mark and twist.

If you hear squeaking you know there is no protection on said area and that problem has come from out side rather then the paintwork defecting.

In itself, it doesnt sound like the paintwork is at fault, though what ever is in there maybe cause problems.

Geoff

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