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.:R tried to flatten me


Craigieboy
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This might sound like a simple question, but I'm taking off one of my alloys to have it refurbed and placing a 2 tonne axel stand from halfords underneath to support the car for a few days. So, today I popped the car up and removed the wheel, all fine, then I placed the stand where I thought it should go, but then as I was lowering the jack the car shifted towards me?!?! Not a pleasant image as you can imagine. Then whenever I would raise the car to a certain level again it would shift! So it got me thinking that it the only reason I can see would be the axel stand being wrongly positioned? Any pics/diagrams/advice greatly appreciated as I'd like to get the wheel refurbed without having the car bounce me/it off the garage wall firstly.

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The front subframe inboard from the usual jacking point is what I used to use. Just to the rear of the engine a beam runs for a short distance either side of the exhaust. Just put a thick rag on the axle stand to stop it cutting into the under body sealer.

What bit are you trying to use?

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Just took a quick pic with the phone there. The bar I was using is the one going pretty much horizontal in picture to just below the middle of the wheel. You can see the part which was wiped clean(er) by the axel stand.

P.s. Pic is looking from rear of the car as its rear driver side alloy coming off. 1177977-DSC00210%28Medium%29.JPG

post-7348-137914401565_thumb.jpg

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Just so I don't do it again. Would it be the blue or white part I should place the axel stand at? The red line being roughly where the jack point is.

Worryingly my first thought wasn't "I'm done for" it was about what damage would happen to the car if it toppled against the garage wall. 1178002-DSC00218%28Medium%29.JPG

post-7348-137914401568_thumb.jpg

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I use my trolley jack under the normal jacking point. I put an old riggers glove between jack and sill to protect sill. You can also use thick cardboard.

And for the front of the car, I use the same place shown by red arrow in Dogbucket's post.

Don't jack at the 2 points on your pic as these are not load bearing and you'll damage car.

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[ QUOTE ]

I use my trolley jack under the normal jacking point. I put an old riggers glove between jack and sill to protect sill. You can also use thick cardboard.

And for the front of the car, I use the same place shown by red arrow in Dogbucket's post.

Don't jack at the 2 points on your pic as these are not load bearing and you'll damage car.

[/ QUOTE ]

I've just got the vw jack, which I put at the jacking point, red line in my pic. So where would the 'load bearing' point be at the rear drivers side to place the axel stand? Obviously if either the blue/white parts in my pic cant hold the weight then sticking an axel stand there for a few days would be another disaster smashfreakB.gif

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The lump with the two rubber grommets is the bit you want. If memory serves the dark patch just above those two is fairly level. I used both axle stands and a trolley jack on that bit.

The white bit is a definate no no!

In general on any car look for a solid beam that the suspension is attached to. Stay away from any parts of the floor pan.

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And is it a normal wind up handle type jack? I dont know if mk4's differ from mk5's.

There should be a mark on the side skirt where to position it. Not on the skirt obviously, but just behind it.

Sorry just read your post, using an axle stand. smashfreakB.gifWhy not just use your jack and position some hefty bits of wood in the desired position incase it moves, which i doubt it would. 169144-ok.gif

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Mate, got to be very careful with lifting the car. I always try to rock the car a bit after finish, to make sure it is rock solid. Also, I would use 4 x stands AND live car jack under the rear diff or motor.

In Australia, according to local statistics 6-8 people get crashed every year under the car. Most of those are home mechanics. Remember, if this thing start to go down, there is no way to stop it, it is 1600kg. It will crash bones like the matches…

NONO3.GIF

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Cough, cough.......... smashfreakB.gifsmashfreakB.gifsmashfreakB.gif

Lifting the back of the car means NO REAR HANDBRAKE

I trust the car is in gear and that you have blocks either side of the front wheels to stop movement.

Do not forget that since the rear is up the weight will be towards the front and liable to move even if the floor is flat / even 169144-ok.gif

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Update: Now got the jack jacked up with axel stand also in place, bricks at the remaining wheels to stop movement 169144-ok.gif

Nearby alloy refurb centre showed me their closest match which a much duller silver 'but you wont notice it when its covered in brake dust, who looks at the alloys anyway'- says the guy in the shop. Needless to say I didn't leave my alloy with them! 1178495-DSC00221%28Medium%29.JPG

post-7348-137914401589_thumb.jpg

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[ QUOTE ]

Cheers Chris, I've emailed pics to a place in bathgate, rmcoatings, to see if they can match it, if not then wicked wheels or I'll hunt for postal options 169144-ok.gif

[/ QUOTE ]

I know it goes against the grain but i still use the VW bodyshop for my alloy refurbs as they are the only ones who get the match right, all be it at a premium price. Fortunately the bodyshop up here in Hull is no longer associated with Priory Park VW who needless to say should be given a wide berth SAUER0421.GIF

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As one local vw dealership parts manager said 'I don't think the lug caps for mkv fit the mkiv' I'll avoid that one. But the garage I got the r from is only ten miles away. Read somewhere vw charge up to £90 per wheel for refurb? Don't they just call in a mobile operator though? I'm certain I've seen mobile refurb vans hidden away round the back.

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[ QUOTE ]

As one local vw dealership parts manager said 'I don't think the lug caps for mkv fit the mkiv' I'll avoid that one. But the garage I got the r from is only ten miles away. Read somewhere vw charge up to £90 per wheel for refurb? Don't they just call in a mobile operator though? I'm certain I've seen mobile refurb vans hidden away round the back.

[/ QUOTE ]

Fortunately due to careful parking and hiding the keys from the wife, i havent curbed one in quite a while but yes they charged me £80 for a full refurb or it would have been £50 if i remember rightly for just a touch up. They did a great job but so they should for that price !! 169144-ok.gif

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One verve garage flatly said they dont do it, the second one at least gave me the number of a few they use. One of the numbers they gave me was a wicked wheels guy, who stays 10mins from me, yet when I called wicked wheels directly they said their most local guy to my postcode only covered edinburgh smashfreakB.gif

Don't know the price yet until he can look at it, but a happier ending is in sight compared to the car pinning me against the garage wall.

Big thanks to all advise given notworthy.gif

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