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Mk V Oil Change


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The grade of oil to be used depends on what type of service interval your car has been set to i.e. "time and distance" or "Longlife". Your vehicle handbook should indicate the ideal type of oil. Secondly, changing oil would require that you jack the car up to gain access to drain the engine oil. Ideally you should have proper equipment to hold the car up on a level surface, and if you dont already have such equipment, it would be a lot wiser to bring it to a VW specialist to have it done.

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Thanks for the reply Mlhj83, I am on the "time and distance" schedule and the vehicle handbook just quotes some VW techno s**te. I could do with laymans terms ie 0w 40 or 5w 35 etc. As regards the jacking up of the car I have got all the gear needed to do this type of work, I'm just finding it hard to a) locate the filter ! b) find out what type of oil to use and c) get a hold of some specific technical guides like I had for my old Ford. I thought by now someone would have had for sale a " workshop" type manual with all the pdf's and technical notes in. Here's hoping beerchug.gif

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Since you have the equipment, give APS a call (www.autops.co.uk). They will be able to assist you with the info that you need as I don't think anyone here who has an MkV has attempted to change oil and filter themselves. However, if you do manage to change the oil and filter, may I ask how you are going to reset the service indicator? Unless of course, you are doing the 1500mile oil and filter change after the run in period.

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Hi Baldie

After fitting the sills had my first service at the stealers. It cost me £130.00 and included the oil change. I asked them if I should change the oil earlier and they said no. Any way as they have to stand by the waranty I figured they would know best. £130.00 and they will be responsible for any after affects seemed pretty good to me, you know oil filter coming loose sump plug leaking cos I was a numpty etc. Also as indicated above they have all the equipment to tell the computer what they have done. ices_blah.gif

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  • 4 weeks later...

Here is my step by step guide on changing the oil on a MK V R32. However there's sure to be some perdantic T**t out there whole will pull me up on some trivial detail. mad.gif

Before you start make sure you have your new oil, new filter and sump bolt(about £7 for bolt and filter from dealers), a type 25 torx bit and driver, a 6mm allen key and a 36mm socket ( bought one especially from my local motorist discount centre for £6)and a 19mm socket for the sump bolt.

Anyway here goes :-

1) Jack the front end up and make safe with axle stands etc.

2) Using the type 25 torx bit remove the 8 torx headed self tappers that hold on the front plastic tray under the car. 1234714-Picture1.jpg

3)Locate the Oil filter housing which has a large hexagonal moulded nut shape on the bottom. Its not like your normal oil filter but is a filter within a housing. See picture


4) Locate the sump bolt and using a 19mm spanner or socket loosen it so as to drain out the Oil. Make sure you have a container in which to catch it !!!!


5)Take out the sump bolt and drain the oil out.


6)Locate the 6mm Allen key recess in the middle of the Oil filter houseing (marked in yellow in the centre of the housing on the photo)and insert the 6mm Allen key. Unscrew the plug which allows the oil inside the filter housing to drain out. Don't lose this plug as it needs to go back in once the oil has drained out.



7) Using the 36mm socket and rachet release the housing and remove the housing and filter.There maybe some traces of Oil which will inevitably make a mess so do cover the ground with rags etc


8)Clean the metal part of the housing ( the bit still attached to the car) of any oil residue, gently pull off the old filter from the plastic housing, and also remove the small black "O" ring that is around the base of the plastic part of the housing. See photo's




9) Get the new "o" ring and attach it to the plastic housing.Get the new filter and clip it into the plastic housing. At this point connect the new sump bolt back onto the sump. I couldn't find any torque wrench setting for this so I just torqued it to 10NM which is adequate.



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Just to continue as I was timed out smashfreakB.gif

10) Replace the housing/filter back onto the car by gentle screwing. Make sure you don't get the threads crossed as its easy to do seeing that the main unit is metal and the filter housing part is plastic. This should be torqued up to 25NM using the 36mm socket.

11) You are now ready to put in your new oil. I bought 6L of the stuff as the book says 5.5L for the Oil change including filter. However I found yesterday that it only took 5L to get it between the marks on the dip stick.

12) Once the Oil is in, you can replace the plastic guard/tray underneath with the 8 Torx self tappers as removed in section 1.

13) Start the car on tick over and after a split second the Oil light will go out (once the oil pressure is up).

14) Jack down the car. Job done.

I hope this is of some help. It took me 60 minutes from start to finish. grin.gifgrin.gif

Just waiting now for the backlash from the "Mr Tosser" of this world to tell me off for not doing something or other.

Cheers Baldie 169144-ok.gif169144-ok.gif

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Hey guys since we're on the topic of engine oils, I've got a question to ask.

I recently changed the oil in my R32 (around 7000 kms) and have been running on Fuchs GT1 for the past 2000 kms.


I was recommended the oil by an independent local VW workshop that I've been going to for early oil changes (dislike having to wait till 15000 kms for an oil change). I'm not a pro when it comes to the internal workings of an engine, so I went with what the workshop guys recommended (they aren't dodgy or anything - nice bunch).

I just found out that Fuchs Titan GT1 is ultra-low viscosity, and I'm not sure it complies with the VW 502.00 standards. Its at 0W-20 viscosity, which is lower than the 5/10W-30/40 rating recommended by VGA.

It sounds like I've just poured water into my car and if I keep using the GT1, it might not be good for the car (might be good for a race car but this is a daily driver!). What engine oil should I really be using for the R32?

Any help would be appreciated. frown.gif

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Excellent step by step guide Baldie with pictures even better, mines due a change and i managed to get the Comma oil today and will change it tomorrow.

Hope thats not you living room carpet in the pictures, is it a berber twist or an axminster.

I have not been on this forum for ages 98% of the posts are rubbish, but it's good to get some good informative tips for a change.


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Excellent step-by-step and you've saved yourself about £100.....But.....How do you responsibly dispose of the oil?

[/ QUOTE ]

Thanks for the comments smile.gif I like Burble use my local Civic Amenity Site ( Dump) They have a special compound where you can pour your old oil into a very large tank which is eventually re-cycled. grin.gif

I usually use the oil can from the New oil to pour in the Old oil from my drainer, if you follow what I mean. confused.gif


These are just some of the recommendations on the back of the Comma oil.

There is a really useful thread in the "General Cars" section which explains Oil and all the info that comes with it.

Buying Oil

Hope this is of some help, Baldie beerchug.gif


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