Jump to content

differences between A8 4.2QS and S8?


treetotreef
 Share

Recommended Posts

Hi there,

I'm thinking of investing in an S8, but apart from badges and lower suspension, what else is there to look out for to ensure she's an S8 and not an A8 quattro sport with S8 rims!?

I'm thinking of either buying an S8 with LPG fitted or fitting one after so any advice on this would be appreciated. any idea what motorway MPG this would do?

Also anyone got any advice on what to look out for when buying one of these? it seems from this forum the 5 speed gearbox is a weak point...

sorry thats a lot of questions layed out in an unorganised fashion!

regards

Rich

Link to comment
Share on other sites

You've not said how old you are looking at, but the differences that are most hard to cover up are:

S8 has chromed tailpipes that are sort of joined together

S8 has S8 emblem on dash cluster

Red line is 7000rpm vs 6250

Door sills will have chrome strips with 'S8' Logo on

Steering wheel should have S8 emblem

All S8's have Sat Nav, early ones might be text based with a normal looking stereo, but they all have it, and there should be a 2 inch square GPS aerial on the boot.

What to look out for?

Gearbox is a big one, just make sure its ultra smooth in all gears inc reverse.

Service history is important too, check its been loved and cared for. Specialists can do an excellent job, and likewise sometimes Audi can do a bad one, so Audi history isn't important, but a full history is.

LPG is a very sensible and successful conversion often performed on these. To find the right car, right colour, right spec with good history with good conversion with right size tank is going to be tough. Open your mind to converting it afterwards and it might cost you a little more, but it will be far easier to acheive your dream car. If you do find one that fits the bill, then great..

If you find one advertised online, post the link here and I'm sure we'll all be happy to give you thoughts...

Happy hunting +++

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks IT_S8

Thats what i was looking for. I was aware of the higher compression,cams etc and different g'box ratios but all are hard to check on a car that you don't own!

any difference between Disc size/brake calipers?

I'm looking at 1998 to 2000 as these seem to be in my budget.

the sensible option is of course a 2.8 on LPG but then you'll always long for an S8 i suppose so i'm tempted to just say feck it and go for the daddy!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The facelift A8 had a single caliper girling brake system on the front. Whereas the S8 had 4 pot Brembos. That's an easy spot.

Other than what IT_S8 has already pointed out there's nothing between the two cars, to differentiate. As a matter of fact, when CraigyB had his D2 S8 he commented how it was nigh on impossible to tell the difference between his and mine.

Other easyish spot is the different grill. The S8 has a slightly different grill to the A8.+++

Come to Billing, and see the differences in the flesh ;)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks IT_S8

I'm looking at 1998 to 2000 as these seem to be in my budget.

the sensible option is of course a 2.8 on LPG but then you'll always long for an S8 i suppose so i'm tempted to just say feck it and go for the daddy!

1998 to 2000 is a bit of a minefield. They started production of the facelift model in October 1998, so from about mid 1998 they started introducing bits of facelift equipment and prefacelift cars were still getting registered in 1999, so to the untrained eye it can be very hard to figure out from an advert what car you're showing interest in. The facelift is undoubtably preferable, but will hold a little premium.

Note all the 4.2's, A8 or S8 are quattro. The 3.7 was quattro from the facelift, and the 2.8 didnt go Quattro until the end of 2000, so an early 2.8 will be 2wd which is frugal, but not really taking benfit of the sporting pedigree.... 2.8 starts with a bit of a basic spec too, saves weight, and lots of options can be retrofitted, but if you want bells and whistles, the 4.2 or S8 is the best place to start. Incidently, the very first facelifts in 1999/2000 were the highest spec, so they came with phoneprep, auto dim mirrors etc, and as the years rolled on Audi made more things cost options...

If you find any motors of interest we'll all be happy to answer any questions on them with our experience.... +++

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Forgot to mention - I agree with Tony / Craig - On paper, the A8 4.2QS on paper looks slower than the S8, with 50BHP less etc, but in reality where the S8 just tends to change gear and rev lots with its higher rev limit, the A8 just relies on bucket loads of torque and cracks on with the job. I've had trouble keeping up with Tony in his A8 on the track, but then maybe its just because he drives like a nutter +++

Billing will be a cracking place (possibly the only place) to see such a variety of cars, spec, engines and ages to do this sort of fact finding before looking for your dream motor...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...

Thank you to all who replied.very informative info...

I recently found my new toy...found a 1998 S8 with LPG fitted and the price was right! She's not perfect but neither am I! with a little bit of work she'll be a good one, and the fact that the LPG was fitted was a real bonus.

the guy i bought it off did the gearbox oil change before i took it. i drove it for a day or 2 with no problems, then i heard what sounded like an oil pump cavatitating followed by jerky movements and poor shifts.I've read on this forum and the link to the correct procedure on filling this auto box, so I presumed that the procedure wasn't followed correctly and it must be low on oil. I bought myself the correct tools, some oil etc. and set about the procedure(without dropping all the oil, just what came out of the fill pipe.) After following the procedure, i couldn't get all the original oil in, let alone any new oil i'd bought! Concluding that the mechanic had overfilled it, i ran it on the stands through all the gears, and it seemed ok.

A few days on and it definately is better, but i sonetimes hear a slight screech on start-up and N to R or N to 1st seem quite harsh, best way i can describe it is it feels like you have to apply more brake pressure when the gearchange (N to R or N to 1st ) occours. all other upshifts are ok.

Is this normal?

I'ts my first auto car, but from memory of driving other auto's, i feel it should be a little softer...

Oh, and i also think i need to do the rear output flange seal...lots of oil under there and bad smell of oil burning when you drive her on a bit...

and the airbag light is on...

and the ABS light is on...

and its got a random missfire that sometimes appears on startup...

But it was a good price...and i don't mind getting my hands dirty...well, thats my excuse anyway!

and that V8 is glorious!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Personally I'd drain it entirely and redo the filter change too. Sounds to me as though something wasn't done right...

I'm thinking either filter wasn't changed or the filter seal has not been put back on. Both of these would cause oil starvation to the pump and the squealing noise you are hearing. I heard exactly the same sort of noise, did a filter and ATF change myself and hey presto Robert is your mum's brother.

Mike

Link to comment
Share on other sites

How many miles has it done? Eventually the 'box just wears out, fluid changes can only extend the life not make it last forever.

I did a change on my aged 4.2 last month (which went OK in the end) but all it did was prove that the (2nd gearbox the car has had - the last owner has already put one exchange unit in) 'box is simply worn out and nearing the end of its life.

If it definately has enough fluid in it then the only thing left to check is the filter. If they did change it as they said then that would seem to be pretty much all you can do without taking the gearbox to bits. If it is not slipping, clunking too much or going into limp mode it is working - just getting a bit old.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Harshness going from N->R or N->D can also be caused by worn universals, CVs, diffs etc - particularly if it clunks at the same time. Easiest way to check is to lift on wheel off the ground and check for freeplay in the transmission by rotating the wheel back and forth. Do this front and rear to verify where any possible slack may be.

I'd still be concerned about the squealking though and do the oil and filter change too.

A well cared for 5speed should do at least 140k miles (but may well go past 200k) with no real issues providing the oil and filter are changed regularly and it hasn't been abused.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

A well cared for 5speed should do at least 140k miles (but may well go past 200k) with no real issues providing the oil and filter are changed regularly and it hasn't been abused.

5-speeds should last 300k easy if they have oil changes throughout their life, not just starting at 100-120k, like a lot seem to.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

its got 140,000 on it and appears to be the original box. i did think about the filter but the guy i bought it off 'assures' me that he got a kit for it, i.e. 10 litres of audi oil,gasket,and filter.

it looks like he did change the gasket, as the **** broke some of the torx head fastners and never drilled them out and replaced them!

It looks like if you want it done right, you got to do it yourself! i need to do the output flange seal anyway. Has anyone any idea how much oil is on the transfer box? and what type?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

its got 140,000 on it and appears to be the original box. i did think about the filter but the guy i bought it off 'assures' me that he got a kit for it, i.e. 10 litres of audi oil,gasket,and filter.

it looks like he did change the gasket, as the **** broke some of the torx head fastners and never drilled them out and replaced them!

It looks like if you want it done right, you got to do it yourself! i need to do the output flange seal anyway. Has anyone any idea how much oil is on the transfer box? and what type?

With reference to my post above it's not the sump seal (gasket) that I was on about. There is a ring seal between the filter and the pump that if not fitted will allow the pump to suck in air causing cavitation.

If you are going to redo the filter and ATF I recommend you swap out the torx bolts for allen head bolts. It makes reaching the one between the cat hidden by the cat a lot easier as you just need an Allen key.

Mike

Link to comment
Share on other sites

With reference to my post above it's not the sump seal (gasket) that I was on about. There is a ring seal between the filter and the pump that if not fitted will allow the pump to suck in air causing cavitation.

Absolutely right. Even leaving the old one in situ can result in a box full of scrap metal, as Sinclair Audi in Bridgend can now tell you.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Please sign in to comment

You will be able to leave a comment after signing in



Sign In Now
 Share

×
×
  • Create New...