allankennedy Posted October 14, 2018 Report Share Posted October 14, 2018 As a follow up to my post yesterday about my 2.5 tdi engine suddenly dying I have used VAG.com again which reported as follows 01375 Valves for engine mounting stage 1 - 38.10 Output wont switch or intermittent 01376 Engine speed signal for injection pump - 37.10 Faulty - intermittent When I clicked clear faults the 01376 one went away but the first one stayed. My question is could this point to the reason that the engine will not even try to fire ? All advice will be greatly appreciated -- thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cruiser647 Posted October 27, 2018 Report Share Posted October 27, 2018 Hi, I don't think the engine mountings will affect the car starting. They are usually designed to counter vibration. Even utterly knackered ones shouldn't stop an engine from starting. The 01376 issue is a more important one, but did you only use VAG-Com on the engine? Were there any other codes reported? When you turn the key (not to fire it up) do you hear the fuel pump prime? Has the car had ANY history of petrol in the tank instead of diesel? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
allankennedy Posted October 27, 2018 Author Report Share Posted October 27, 2018 Hi Thanks for the advice but I did mean to report that I have found the problem a couple of days ago. The injection pump tensioner centre bolt has broken off and I found it under the belt which is disengaged thus giving no drive to the pump. I realise that i will have to remove the front end to replace it and I am planning to start shortly. Any advice you could offer such as how to rotate the engine (it is an auto) to line up the timing marks (if I can find them ) Also, for some strange reason I can't find an on line supplier for a new tensioner though there are many offering items for the main timing belt none seem to be offering the pump belt. The main stealers have quoted £96 for the tensioner pulley. The centre bolt, they say, is not available seperately. Thanks again Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cruiser647 Posted October 29, 2018 Report Share Posted October 29, 2018 Ah, well done. How do you plan on removing the rest of the centre bolt? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
allankennedy Posted October 30, 2018 Author Report Share Posted October 30, 2018 Hi Actually there isn't a problem removing the remainder of the bolt because it is an integral part of the tensioner roller and I managed to find a used one on Ebay at £15. See photos above. The rear view shows the other end of the broken bolt which is fixed in position, probably pressed in. No my main problem apart from having to remove the whole front of the car for access is how to reset the pump timing in sync with the engine. Thankfully though,there is no problem with the main timing belt. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cruiser647 Posted November 7, 2018 Report Share Posted November 7, 2018 Yeah, good luck with the pump timing! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
allankennedy Posted December 13, 2018 Author Report Share Posted December 13, 2018 I'm pleased to report that all went well with the pump belt tensioner. I managed to get the old one out and the new one in without removing the main pulley mounting. Instead I used a hacksaw blade to cut away part of the moulded vent above the tensioner which gave just enough clearance. When I had fitted the new one I found some paint marks on the belt and the driver pulleys, Assuming these had been made when the belt was last changed I lined them up, tightened the tensioner to 34nm and started the engine. I was quite delighted to find that it now runs as well as it ever did. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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