Wet Carpets - but something different

[CMJ]

Hi all. I have been lurking for sometime and followed advice posted on this forum in respect to wet carpets. I have cleared all drains (front arches, bulk head, evap, sunroof) and can confirm all are runnig freely - but I am still getting wet carpets.

1. Having stripped the car this weekend I can see water coming in down the wiring harness on the far left handside of passenger footwell.

Question - Can I work my way up from the inside of the car or do I need to follow advice posted by others and remove the ECU box etc to see if I have the famous poorly sealed hole. If I do have to disconnec the ECU's do I need a special laptop etc or can I just plug everything back in once I have removed ? All explanation and help greatly received.

2. My other wet area is around the evap drain area on the drivers side. This is definately running clearly as if I tip water down it appears under the car. What appears to be happening is that following a long drive (in the dry not wet) I can hear some water moving around behind the sat nav. I suspect this is from the air condenser but cannot think why it is not draining away. Also worth mentioning that I am not seeing any water from the air con under the car when I stop. Does this happen in cooler weather or only when warmer ? As mentioned before all drains are running freely so when I stop to investigate the running water and check the bulk head this is absolutely clear. Any ideas as to what this might be ?

Also, on Friday water tipped onto my feet under hard breaking so all things point to the evap drains but these are as clear as clear can be ?

I intend to keep the car stripped this week to try and see what is going on and would appreciate all / any advice.

Many thanks

[Tipex]

This may be complete tosh but I'll post it anyway incase it might be of help!

On the Skoda Superb (I know it's not an Audi but it's VAG so probably very similar in design principles), there is a drain hole located directly under the battery, which is located in the centre of the bit under the bonnet where the wiper motors etc are, the only way to clean it out is to remove the battery, and the battery tray.

This gets gunked up and blocks, and results in the water ingress problems you describe, on the skoda, the water eventually eats into the convenience ECU which affects all manner of electrical gubbins.

Again, I have no experience of the Audi A8 so I dont even know if the battery is in the same place, but I hope this info is usefull.

[Botang]

It sounds like you have the problem that I found. The badly sealed hole, but I dont think you would need to remove the ecu tray to get to it, I did but only because I dodnt know where to look, follow my pictures and you should be fine, notice that it is tucked right up in the corner.

[CMJ]

Botang I am pretty sure it is 'your' hole but never thought of reaching it without moving the ECU. Will take a look and see what I can do.

If I do need to remove everything di I need to hook up to VAGcom afterwards or will it all simply re connect.

Anyone - Any further views why the driver side is wet in the way described ?

Thanks

[Ska]

Your going to disconnect the battery for this so the only thing you proly need to use VAGcom (VCDS) for is to reset the power supply low voltage fault code.

Not sure about the driver side puddle especialy if the drains are clear; Are you loosing any coolant? How cold does the aircon get on LO setting?

[Botang]

Just to confirm the drians inside the car (the bright orange ones behind the carpet trim) are clear? I know you said that the evap ones are clear I just wanted to make sure we are talking about the same ones.

[CMJ]

Your going to disconnect the battery for this so the only thing you proly need to use VAGcom (VCDS) for is to reset the power supply low voltage fault code.

Not sure about the driver side puddle especialy if the drains are clear; Are you loosing any coolant? How cold does the aircon get on LO setting?

No Coolant loss and aircon goes cold on LO. Orange drains are totally clear and I removed and cleaned again at the weekend and blew air / put some tubing up the black tube and also down towards the floor. Refitted both drains and tipped water inot orange tube and all flowed out under the car. Its almost as if the train tray itself imay get blocked not allowing water to drain out of it via the tubes.

I will fix the hole this weekend and see where I go from there.

[Sven]

Suppose you already checked this topic on Audipages? (starts with the interior drains, scroll down for more)

[harpersimon]

I sympathise. Cleared all my drains and still get a wet passenger carpet - and thought must be 'the hole' - however when I remove all the passenger footwell trim I can see what is clearly water mark from something dripping about/around where the orange air con drain is. Its NOT The aircon drain, removed, cleared, put back all good, and its the wrong side of the footwell for the famous hole (on the trans tunnel under glovebox, on right side) - only drains I haven't cleared are the last ones in the audipages procedure, under the Heater/Blower intake, as I haven't figured how to get to them. Hey ho.. Useful (thanks Ska) to know you can remove the ECU tray and will still be able to start the car again after - was going to ask the same thing to be honest. One thing about disconnecting the battery - got your radio code? :-)

[CMJ]

Simon re engine compartment drains I bought a compressor from B&Q and some flexible copper pipe and it worked a treat first time by following the instructions from audi pages. I am about 40 mins from Morecombe just off the M6 J27 if you are passing would only take us 20 mins tops to complete. But let me get mine dry first !!

[harpersimon]

Simon re engine compartment drains I bought a compressor from B&Q and some flexible copper pipe and it worked a treat first time by following the instructions from audi pages. I am about 40 mins from Morecombe just off the M6 J27 if you are passing would only take us 20 mins tops to complete. But let me get mine dry first !!

Hey sounds good to me, just let me know when you are free, I work up the M65 so get on / off at jnc 30 alot so no problem to get to you. happy to swop tips and help out to. PM me your mobile/post code and let me knw when your free to perform the magic!

[harpersimon]

just for a bit more info - I think cowel drains could be the problem - I can see a water mark about here (marked by arrow in pic - imagine the wiring not in the way and this is passenger side!) I don't / haven't seen it actually dripping but I guess in all the nice North West weather and when I wash the car , this could be the cause of my carpet dampness.

[CMJ]

Well, after another day on this job I will have to declare defeat. I cannot get access to the 4 bolts holding in the ecu tray so cant get to the hole. I also dropped a bolt in the process I a, defeated and cannot spend anymore time on this as I will be divorced. Leaving car stripped and going to dealers next week 4 hrs @ 100 my guess will be. If thats the price for dry carpets and a saturday off sound cheap to me !!! Thanks for all your help

[Ska]

Found this on my merry hunt around the manual; my links don't work and its a PITA to post something like this.

Hey mods can we up the size of MS word attachements please?

Components used to control and regulate air conditioner (in passenger compartment)

Checking, removing and installing condensation drainage hose with valve

Checking

• ‒ Remove side trim of centre console on driver's and front passenger's side:

=> General Body Repairs, Interior; Repair Group 70

•◆→ It must be possible to attach condensation drainage hose -A- to connection on air conditioner without the drainage hose being subjected to mechanical stress.

•◆ Cross-section of condensation hose must not be constricted by insulating mat.

• ‒ Re-work insulating mat if necessary.

•◆ When installed, condensation drainage valve must not rest against heat dissipation panel.

• ‒ With valve removed, check whether there is adequate clearance between centre tunnel floor panel and heat dissipation panel.

•◆ Condensation drainage valve must not be gummed up with wax or underseal and must close properly.

•◆ Condensation drainage hose must be securely fitted to condensation drainage connection on air conditioner.

• ‒ If necessary, use hose clamp to secure condensation drainage hose.

•◆ In the event of moisture in passenger compartment:

• ‒ Use length of wire to check for dirt in condensation drainage ducts of air conditioner, e.g. with condensation drainage hose removed. Clean drainage ducts if necessary.

• ‒→ Check for dirt in drainage hose -A-, associated valve -B- and section under air conditioner unit -C-.

•‒ If necessary, remove coupling station from electronics box in plenum chamber.

Note:

The illustration shows the valve and drainage hose with the surrounding assemblies removed.

•◆ If no faults can be detected:

•‒ Check forced air extraction of passenger compartment (via luggage compartment) => Page 87-48.

•‒ Check seal on intake housing => Page 87-56.

•‒ Remove grille covering air flow flaps and intake housing =>Page 87-55.

•‒→ Check both drainage holes -A- and -B- in air conditioner unit for dirt (drainage holes have different diameters depending on model year, illustration shows version installed from model year 1999 onwards).

•‒→ Check areas -C- and -D- for indications of water penetration. If necessary, seal these areas =>Page 87-55

Removing

•‒ Remove side trim of centre console on driver's and front passenger's side:

=> General Body Repairs, Interior; Repair Group 70

•‒ Detach condensation drainage hose from air conditioner unit.

•‒ Pull condensation drainage hose out of centre tunnel.

Installing

•‒→ Push condensation drainage valve -A- through centre tunnel floor panel.

•‒ Engage rib -B- completely in centre tunnel panel.

[GarbitAsh]

Can I add my 2p worth to the blocked drains debate. I had blocked drains on all three from the engine compartment. I found the large, central drain beneath the airbox impossible to clear with the suggested air-thru-copper-pipe method. Its just too hard to get to. if you can get your car up enough, eg on a ramp, it is relatively easy to poke a wire coat hanger up the near-side leg and dislodge the gunk blocking it, then.... whoosh.