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does it have to be a random orbit polisher ?


Tomk
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Yep - these jobbies can burn through your paint in seconds if not used properly. They are really good, mopped the Yaris the other week and the paint came up like new. Just make sure you do the following:

1. Use plenty of water if you're using cutting compound

2. Keep the bugger moving at all times

3. Steer clear of the cheap mop heads with a plastic thread

4. Most importantly, keep the mop head clean! Dont let any dirt near it.

They're infinately better than the rubbish you get from Halfords and worth money - just be careful with 'em.

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i wont be doing any mopping , ive just got some speed polish (megs) and some megs' heads, im going to do that , then apply the normal 3 stage with them - if anything will apply by hand then use it to 'buff' off will keep you all posted !

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I should add also that there's been a bit of misunderstanding over what the PC is/what it can & can't do so here's a brief rundown for your assistance.

The PC retails in the US for between $120-140 (so around £50-75ish). The Makita 9227 rotary which I've just ordered from Screwfix set me back £170 but in the US sells for as little as $160 (around £90). Remember we get shafted for VAT, tax etc etc so in reality the PC, if available in the UK would IMHO cost you around £100-130 (i.e. similar to the Dewalt SW443 orbital.

On that basis alone (plus the much more powerful motor the PC runs when compared to the sub-£30 buffers available from Argos, Halfords etc), it's a more powerful and capable machine but should still be used wisely.

Machine polishing does not need to be done weekly or even monthly, rather in the first instance to get your paint to a point you're happy with (swirl free, bright, glossy etc etc) but thereafter I'd recommend careful wash technique and regular maintenance to avoid further complications. Something like the Meguiars cordless is ideal for regular application of sealants/waxes and perhaps mild polish but IMHO an electric machine with a bit more torque is needed for serious paint rectification.

Still, I'd only use the PC where strictly needed - i.e. if you have some swirling to the door or bonnet, then polish these areas only, not the whole car. Try removal by hand first and only resort to machine polishing if this fails.

As for rotary use, I'd leave that to the pros myself. I've invested in a rotary to further my skills as a semi-pro and because there will be times when I need the speed and power of this when the PC runs out of puff!

Hope this helps you in your quest for perfection!!

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I think you can certainly use a PC for everyday use... but you ned to know what you are doing and more importantly, what your products actually do.

The first product of importance is the pads. You have to remember that even the wind is abrasive. Whereever there is friction, there is abrasion. So if you want to machine apply a wax, the wax has to have no polish in it and you want the softest possible pads. The Black pads we use on our Random orbitals are as soft as marshmallow... so you won't be suprised that they don't last long. We have 7 different waxes for regular use, 6 of them contain no abrasives, the and the other is used because it does. Some of them machine on well, some don't.

but there is still danger, not from burning or going through- these machines are heavy and hard, even the cables can scratch paintwork if dragged accross your bonnet, and it has moving parts, they vibrate quite a bit so if the head catches trim it can bash it and break it or pull it off.

And of course, the problem with being 60 times quicker than the human hand, is that if you should get some grit caught on the pad, you will do 60 times more damage before you notice. In hot weather, especially near busy roads, your car can get coted in fine grit as quickly as it takes for a bus to drive by and kick it up from the road.

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I prefer a good handjob myself....

Seriously, I enjoy waxing a car by hand - kinky perhaps but I find is satisfying and TBH I reckon it's no slower than by machine.

I've burnt through on my 205 in 2 spots (bonnet and roof) but that's a mixture of too much PC-ing and the fact that a 16 year old GTi "might" not have all its original paint...hence why I would still urge caution with PC use, esp on an older car.

I've mixed & matched pads a lot, esp as I find the Meguiars pads v expensive (although they do last) and the Machine Mart jobs cheap & cheerful so be polite!! Got a load of Sonus pads on order from autopia - been impressed this far and at around £5 a pad (offer price) you can't go wrong - back to "why do we pay more VAT?" argument.

I found that Carlack doesn't like PC application - seems to dry too fast even via finishing pad and removal becomes a PITA whereas Super Resin is a peach to apply and leaves little or no staining on trim - go figure I guess.

Anyway, now my Makita's on its way, a whole new (and scary world) of buffing beckons!

Or at least the other 1/2's Ka.......

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i look forward to if anythign using the rotary as a pure buffer to take off polish already applied , i find the £30 jobby ust does not get it off, im going to practice and will invest in a PC too when the time is right ( i can get one and all teh gubbins cheap ) i have loads of cleaning products and wantt o get the best out ofthem and my car 169144-ok.gif

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