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VW Golf TDi MK3 - Turbo cut out


biggles
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Hi, I've recently purchase a P reg Golf TDi and have found it has a fault.

When in fifth gear and you hit 3000 revs the turbo cuts out and won't work again until the ignition is cut and restarted. I have read that this is because the ECU thinks it is overheating and shuts it down.

It works fine in all other gears as I can rev it past 3000 rpm and it doesn't cut out. Having read other posts people with turbo problems tend to have the problems in most gears rather than just fifth.

Any body got any ideas? The garage I bought it from have said that the turbo isn't covered under their 3 month warranty, but I'm going to have it out with them.

Thanks,

Adam

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I reported it about two weeks after I'd purchased the car. I didn't know about the problem until then, as I hadn't driven the car hard enough to cause the problem until then. I'm 99% sure that the problem existed before I purchased the car, they probably didn't realise the problem either.

They provided a list (at time of sale) of what is covered under their warranty which I have since found out doesn't include Turbo's. Seeing as a turbo is a major part of a TDi car, I reckon I have a case.

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As they pointed out to you that the turbo wasn't covered by warranty at the time of sale, then you don't have a case. Best you can hope for is that they investigate the fault at a reduced rate of labour or as goodwill.

However, sale of goods may be an option as Shao says.

There'll be a fault code in the ecu which will point to the possible cause of the problem. Find out what it is and let us know.

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How do I go about getting the fault codes out the ECU?

I spoke to my local VW garage about the issue earlier today and they said they'd have to look at it and couldn't give any information on the phone. The basic checks would be done in the first hour which seems to be reading the ECU for the error codes and they would charge £75 + VAT for doing that.

Is there anywhere anyone knows I can get that done in Sussex/Hampshire for less?

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There's an aftermarket tool called "Vag com" which emulates the functions of the dealers computer. Many members here have it, and would possibly scan your car for you if they live close. Try a post in the Vag com section on this site and see if anyone is close to you and has a bit of spare time.

Vag com is a computer program and a connection cable which links a lap top to your car, and does just what the dealer can do. The shareware version of the program is free and has basic reading functionality, and a cheap cable off ebay will be perhaps £35 (?). If you have a laptop, you're good to go.

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I agree with Rusty, since they have informed you that the turbo is not covered your already on the back foot. As mentioned try and bargin for a reduced labour rate or a good will gesture. Its helps if the dealership is full of people...so get a group together and make them go to the dealer to pose as potential customers. you will find that in order to aviod a scene and loosing potential business they may accommodate you. Think about it...if you were browsing the dealership and someone else was expressing their dissapointment at the dealer, sales of goods etc..what would that give you in terms of impression about the dealer? (its just a tatic you have to adopt). But its not a gurantee to work by any means, but worth a shot.

have you looked in the VAGCOM section on this site to see if there is anyone near where you based so you can get the fault codes out?

In terms of the Turbo... I have heard of this problem before...a mate of mine had the same problem with his TDi, and frankly rather than get VW to do it he sourced a turbo and the associated parts from a breakers and I got a friend of mine who is a mechanic (works on BMWs) to fit it for him for outstanding value. Since then he's had no problems

Best of Luck mate

P 169144-ok.gif

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OK, first things first, I've just re read the title, and you have a Mk 3 TDI. The first thing to look for is the manifold pressure sensor tube. The boost pressure is read directly in the ECU, and a rubber hose connects the ecu to a pressure point on the inlet manifold. This hose hardens and perishes at the ends, meaning the ecu doesn't see a correct boost value, and goes into Limp Mode. Replace this tube (windscreen washer hose or suchlike is ideal. I made a post about this for someone else on this forum, and there may be more detail in that post as to where to look.

This is the first place to start, and don't even think about investigating the ends of the hose. For the price of new, just do t.

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I'm waiting for a cable to turn up so I can read the error codes off the ECU. I'm not going to make any running repairs until the garage have looked at it, otherwise they might say that me making my own repairs may have made it worse and not fix it.

I'll let you know when I've got the error codes.

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Ok, the following is the output from VAG-COM

Address 01: Engine

Controller: 028 906 021 BF

Component: 1.9l R4 EDC 00SG 0804

Coding: 00002

Shop #: WSC 01269

1 Fault Found:

00575 - Intake Manifold Pressure

17-10 - Control Difference - Intermittent

Readiness: N/A

I haven't replaced the tube/piping you mentioned yet. Do the results suggest that that could be the problem?

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OK, after looking under the bonnet with my dad a pipe at the back of the engine (in the middle at the top) seemed loose. The clip seems to have warn through the outer fabric covering so made it loose. We chopped off the end and have held it on with a zip tie for now.

I took my car out and was able to push it hard without it going into limp mode.

So, it may be fixed.

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