ahaydock Posted October 9, 2006 Author Report Share Posted October 9, 2006 [ QUOTE ] I would be suprised if the re-map had anything to do with it apart from showing it up, the dealership will NOT know that you have had it re-mapped, take it back and complain, there is no way they will say "this has had a re-map or something", Get it back and compain. PS) they wont test for clutch slip by flooring it around anyway. [/ QUOTE ] If they wont drive the car "by flooring it" how will they know if it is slipping? I have no other mods, so other than the reamp it is all standard, so hopefully they wont be able to tell than the ECU is remapped. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
R32Ash Posted October 10, 2006 Report Share Posted October 10, 2006 [ QUOTE ] I have no other mods, so other than the reamp it is all standard, so hopefully they wont be able to tell than the ECU is remapped. [/ QUOTE ] If they want to check if it's been remapped, they can do quite easily. There's a 'checksum' included in the map code which (put very simply) adds up all the parameters used in the map and gives a total. Obviously different parameters are used in a remap and so the checksum is different - pressumably why Whoppum was told his came up with a # error when they checked it? It's a case of whether or not they want to look for evidence of it being remapped. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ahaydock Posted October 10, 2006 Author Report Share Posted October 10, 2006 I am thinking about having the remap undone and then taking it to Audi to get it checked out. My only concern is that the problem will go away without the remap (and extra Torque it produces)and then I would have got nowhere, other than messing the Tuning company around. Because in all honestly I would probably want the remap re-done again, as it is great other than the clutch slip. I am just concerned that the remap is highlighting a problem with the clutch, and currently I am in a position to get the work done at their cost, where as if I just leave it and alter my driving style, the problem could get worse and i could face a huge bill in the future! Any thoughts. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Golfer Posted October 10, 2006 Report Share Posted October 10, 2006 [ QUOTE ] Thanks - how will they test for clutch slip? [/ QUOTE ] Apply hand break and use reverse or first and check for slip, may take out and run it high gear low speed acceleration. thas about it. Should check for free play cable what ever. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Golfer Posted October 10, 2006 Report Share Posted October 10, 2006 [ QUOTE ] Do you reckon they will know about the remap? [/ QUOTE ] Please M8, NO THEY WONT, you've only done 500miles havent you?, you cant feck a clutch that quick. Damage already done beforew you stepped in the car, re-map just showing it and it will get worse. And if they do whats to say the previous owner had it done!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
paul051 Posted October 10, 2006 Report Share Posted October 10, 2006 I have mine chipped with a superchips bluefin DIY Job, If i have any problems sevices etc etc i just put it back to standard and remap it again when it comes back. No one is none the wiser. I had a cooper s before this which was chipped i went through 3 gear boxes, 2 clutches and a flywheel in 2 years from new it was chipped and bmw never got on to it so i would'nt worry to much! All the problems were covered by warranty so if you had it for 500 miles they are not going to expect you to of chipped it already so just play up hell! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ahaydock Posted October 10, 2006 Author Report Share Posted October 10, 2006 Would it be easier for them to tell if the clutch is faulty with or without the reamp? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mollox Posted October 10, 2006 Report Share Posted October 10, 2006 What Remap is it and how much torque is it producing? A dealership can use their own diagnostic tool to measure boost and from this they will know whether its been chipped or not. In this example they would have to have a suspicion though as this isn't a standard diagnosis. Equally, you can tell if a car has been chipped from a drive of a few metres - the way the car picks up is a total giveaway. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ahaydock Posted October 10, 2006 Author Report Share Posted October 10, 2006 The remap is approximately 185 BHP with torque near 300! So as you can imagine it is quite alot higher than standard and probably a lot for the clutch... I think I will have it undone and see if the problem is still there and get Audi to check it out. My concern is that the problem will go away without the remap! However I guess if they are looking for it, it may be easier to find? What do you think...? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Soundwave Posted October 12, 2006 Report Share Posted October 12, 2006 [ QUOTE ] Then most likely the previous owner damaged the clutch. Given the short amount of time you've had the car, you might get somewhere with the dealer who sold you it if you go back sharpish and kick up a stink. If they get a hint that the cars been remapped then you'll be on your own, but if you go back with the remap off and it's not slipping then you'll have no evidence. Catch 22. [/ QUOTE ] Hehe, very good Rusty. How right you are. Take remap off and they'll say nothing's wrong as it wont do it, leave remap on and trust me, the technician will definitely know on the test drive. Even if they are slightly suspicious of the power, they would run it up on the diagnostics and see the modified checksum data and know its been tampered with. Soon as they know that, you can forget any idea of warranty replacements. Seeing as other people have had remaps and not had this problem, it's logical to conclude that your clutch is in the autumn, possibly winter years of its life, whereby running at standard power is perfectly fine (as the torque produced is insufficient to overwhelm the clutch even when it is nearing the end of it's natural life), but running it with the remap is just that bit too much torque for it to cope with (i.e. there is insufficient friction plate material left to handle the extra torque). Running it like this will just get worse and the wear from here-on-in will be much accelerated than normal. Without going back through the boards search feature and looking for myself, I can't be sure if anyone has had this problem with a much younger clutch, but the probability of it happening on a younger clutch is far less. Who's to say that the owner immediately before you didn't thrash the nads out of the car and hammer the poor clutch to within an inch of its life? Maybe they did a few 2nd gear starts and slip the clutch alot more than usual? Or, who's to say that the car hasn't been remapped before and then been set back to standard by the stealer to make a normal sale of a standard car? The only way you'll know is by having the clutch replaced with a new one. If it still does it after that, then it's obvious you are producing far too much torque than can be dealt with. At that point, you'd either have the choice of having it detuned (either slightly or fully), or having a performance clutch fitted that is rated by the manufacturer to handle much higher levels of torque. Then you have the drawback of a more 'on/off' clutch, as uprated clutches often are. Could you live with that every day? As you can see, you have a real dilemma here, but as Rustynuts as already pointed out, it's a real catch 22 situation. I can't tell you what to do either way, but personally, if it was me, i'd just have a performance clutch installed anyway. It's the only real way to guarantee that the problem will be fixed. Taking the gamble of opting for a standard clutch could be very expensive if it just does the exact same thing afterwards. And besides, you want to be able to benefit fully from the remap and not let any horses, or should I say lb/ft, be wasted. In order to ascertain as to whether you could live with an uprated clutch, it might be worth putting up a post asking if many other members have had one installed, and if so, how does it differ to a standard clutch. In fact, i'd be damned interested myself because I still haven't had my Golf (TDI PD130) remapped, and seeing as my motor has done 64,000 miles, am really quite worried about whether the clutch could take it! Anyway, good luck whatever you decide! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ahaydock Posted October 12, 2006 Author Report Share Posted October 12, 2006 Thanks for the replies, as a start the remap is being undone and the car going back to Audi for investigation (it was already going back for some other minor issues). So we will see what they say, hopefully if I shout loudly enough I might get the work done, but we will have to wait and see. Thanks again and if anyone else has any comments would love to hear them... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ahaydock Posted October 26, 2006 Author Report Share Posted October 26, 2006 Well the remap is off and guess what, no clutch slip! Had the car at my local Audi stealers and they have also said there is nothing wrong with it, shame as if there was they told me it would have been replaced at their cost! What should I do, as I really like the drive with the remap, but the clutch slip will drive me mad and I cannot afford a new clutch! How much would a performance clutch be and an OEM clutch (parts only)? Advise please... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ahaydock Posted October 27, 2006 Author Report Share Posted October 27, 2006 Bump Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Soundwave Posted November 6, 2006 Report Share Posted November 6, 2006 This is a copy of the reply I got from RSD (rsdcars-uk.co.uk) when I enquired about a performance clutch a couple of months ago. I wanted to know if they actually did an uprated clutch at all (for my car) and if so, how would it 'feel' and how much would it cost etc. etc. My car is a Mk4 Golf PD TDI 130, so the below prices shouldn't be a million miles away for your car. > Thank you for your email, I hope we will be able to help you. The > performance clutch itself will be more "on off" than your standard clutch > and will cost £622.75 including fitting and Vat. > > If you wish to go ahead with this then we will of cause fit this for you, > but we would recommend that you replace it with a standard clutch as the > performance one is better designed for racing rather then normal road use, > this would cost £446.50 including fitting and Vat. > > I hope that has been of some help to you, if you have any further > questions > then please don't hesitate to contact us. > > The clutch would be a Helix performance clutch. > > I look forward to hearing from you. > > Many thanks > Kind regards > > James Salisbury > > RSD Sales Team Not sure if this makes the decision any easier (it certainly didn't for me!) but at least you know what your options are. HTH. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alexc Posted November 6, 2006 Report Share Posted November 6, 2006 I run a Helix Performance clutch in my Mk2 20vT and it's not that heavy, I think having converted to a hydraulic clutch has helped (which all new cars have). Your options as I see them: * Maximise your torque by having a Performance clutch fitted * Revert to standard * Have the car remapped with a lower boost range. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ahaydock Posted November 6, 2006 Author Report Share Posted November 6, 2006 Thanks again guys. I am having it remapped with lower torque figures so hopefully this will resolve the problem. I will report back once this is done. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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