Ska Posted November 22, 2006 Report Share Posted November 22, 2006 Am I doing something wrong? After haing seen some of Omen666's pics of his 911 I invested in some of this stuff. I've given the car two coats and it looks fantastic , but its very difficult to remove completely . To the unaware a couple passes with a microfibre cloth and its buffed off but on closer inspection at the detailers viewing angle you can see faint streaks of the product which take a hell of a lot of elbow grease to remove. Does this mean I am applying too much? Or is there an easier way to remove/buff it off. Thanks PS This forum seems to be quiet... does no one clean their cars in the winter? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steelwind101 Posted November 22, 2006 Report Share Posted November 22, 2006 Hi Your problem is quite typical of the old school type products like Klasses and Autogym. The product needs to go on REALLY thin, i cant stress that enough. If you had the Autoglym product EGP i suggest people put in a spray bottle and mist the applicater to get an easy to apply amount of it. The residue you cant get off may well be worth leaving it its to hard to rub off. If you have some QD then that will probably help you tidy it up. Just to check you did leave 24hrs between the two coats?? If not that might be some of the problem, many newer sealants allow for muilt-coats with in 20-30 mins of each other. Allow extra drying time in this weather too and watch out for the dew point or you will never get the stuff off!! I am sure alot of people are resting inside in this weather!! Geoff Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JonnyGTi Posted November 22, 2006 Report Share Posted November 22, 2006 Found this a while ago (see below in quote marks) :- Basically the consensus view is to spread it VERY thinly with a DAMP applicator, leave it to fully dry & set (for OVER 12 hours) and then buff off with a CLEAN UNUSED MF. If you do the quicker wipe on wipe off (panel by panel), then you may not get quite as good a coat applied. Perhaps your problem is that you are doing something in between the instant and over 12 hour buff off methods advised ? If I was you, to get rid of the smearing, I'd try applying another coat of SG, panel by panel, and use the instant buff off method. You could also try using one of the Acrylic Sprays as a final coat, this may eliminate the smearing. I top up my SG with Sonus Acrylic Glanz after every wash and have been very pleased with the durability and shine that is maintained. Personally, having used SG during the summer, I had no problems buffing off a thin layer after leaving it to dry for 24 hours in the warmth. However, I would'nt be so confident in this colder and damper weather. CL68LLS is the same as Klasse SG btw in the text below. Hope this helps "CL68LLS is an acrylic sealant for your car that provides a hard durable acrylic finish. This product contains no abrasives or chemical cleaning agents meaning that it can be layered time and time again. The first layer of CL68LLS should be placed on a correctly prepared surface (eg recently polished or chemically cleaned to provide the maximum reflective gloss effect. This product works best with a car prepared with Car-Lack68 Systematic Care that already provides a base acrylic seal. CL68LLS should be applied very sparingly (ie as thinly as possible) using a damp terry/mf based applicator pad. CL68LLS should be applied one panel at a time before wipe off. CL68LLS can be applied using small circular rubbing motions but always must be removed/buffed in straight up/down motions. Never remove the excess CL68LLS using a circular rubbing technique as this may promote swirl marks that can be viewed from any angle. Please be aware that CL68LLS should be removed as soon as possible and not allowed to haze. Failure to follow the above guideline may result in a difficult removal process once product has hazed. However, the alternative method is apply CL68LLS and leave for 12 hours (indoors) prior to removal. At this point the CL68LLS has completely cured making the excess CL68LLS (haze) easier to remove. Due to the lack of cleaning agents, CL68LLS can be applied on a regular basis without risk of removing previous layers. Please ensure that car is thoroughly washed prior to the application of CL68LLS or immediately after the application and ‘buff’ of Car-Lack68LLS. If applying multiple layers of CL68LLS in a short period of time – please ensure that you wait at least 24 hours between each layer. No wash is necessary in this timeframe between layers unless car has been removed from indoors or a high level of dust has accumulated on the surface. For the most part, the majority of people will apply successive layers of CL68LLS over a weekly, biweekly or monthly period. Approximate time of effective durability is 3-5 months depending on environmental conditions. As a note, always ‘buff off’ using an extremely soft/plush Microfibre towel between each application of CL68LLS – ie DO NOT apply successive layers of CL68LLS before buffing/removing the excess first. Example: Wash car (if necessary) Apply CL68SC on one panel Remove excess CL68SC/Haze until you have a high gloss protective acrylic seal. Continue to apply CL68LLS (Applicator Pad)/remove excess CL68LLS (Microfibre cloth) one panel at a time. Repeat process if necessary (24 hour minimum waiting time). This will give you a near unbeatable show room finish. One note of caution, always use a separate cloth to remove excess (buff off) CL68LLS - never use the same cloth for different products! This advice goes for any product, never mix your cleaning, polishing and waxing cloths!" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ska Posted November 22, 2006 Author Report Share Posted November 22, 2006 Wow Thanks for the in depth replies guys I topped up a week apart. So the idea is that if I can't leave it for 12 hrs to cure (which I cant as its on the drive, then I should apply and buff off straight away even before it has a chance to haze? I know most normal people are resting indoors this time of year but I'm anything but normal; I hate that my car gets dirty even though you see people staring at the way the water beeds off it when your stuck on the A40. I will endevour to GET A LIFE and rid my self of this OCD Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OGWT Posted November 22, 2006 Report Share Posted November 22, 2006 •Place a small amount of product (about the size of a dime / 5p) on to a dry applicator (not the paint surface) and using a light to medium even pressure, apply a thin even film of product to paint surface. •As an alternative, put some SG into small misting spray bottle, this will enable you to cover the applicator while using the minimum amount of product and this will ensure a super thin application. •Apply to whole vehicle (1-1.5oz should be sufficient for most vehicles) taking care not to apply to absorbent surfaces (i.e. unpainted plastics and rubber trim) Wipe On / Wipe Off method: apply to the first panel and then to the second, remove residue from the first panel and apply to the third panel, removing residue from the second panel, and etc Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Avus_Bub Posted November 22, 2006 Report Share Posted November 22, 2006 Some great tips here guys I'm about to seal the A4 for the first time with some Wolfgang. I take it the same rules will apply? BUB Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steelwind101 Posted November 22, 2006 Report Share Posted November 22, 2006 Hi!! Forgot earlier but as mentioned before Acrylic Sprays from Sonus is well worth getting to keep it looking sharp over the winter. Wolfgang is a bit different, do you have the cleaneser AVUS?? The Pinnicle one is great too, they really help with bonding to a clean surface. Apply Wolfgang and then let it dry, 45mins to an hour this weather. Apply one thing layer, one point to note is that you really want to get it away from wet weather and the dew point to increase durability. Geoff Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bpsmith Posted November 22, 2006 Report Share Posted November 22, 2006 You ideally need to leave the WG Sealant on for around 45 mins, or probably a bit longer at this time of year, and then buff off. Do not apply any further products for at least 24 hours and try not to get it wet in the first 12 hours. I have left this stuff on for 45 mins in the middle of the hot Summer and it comes off a treat with very little effort and no smearing whatsoever. The best product I have ever used in that respect! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Avus_Bub Posted November 23, 2006 Report Share Posted November 23, 2006 [ QUOTE ] You ideally need to leave the WG Sealant on for around 45 mins, or probably a bit longer at this time of year, and then buff off. Do not apply any further products for at least 24 hours and try not to get it wet in the first 12 hours. I have left this stuff on for 45 mins in the middle of the hot Summer and it comes off a treat with very little effort and no smearing whatsoever. The best product I have ever used in that respect! [/ QUOTE ] [ QUOTE ] Hi! Wolfgang is a bit different, do you have the cleaneser AVUS?? The Pinnicle one is great too, they really help with bonding to a clean surface. Apply Wolfgang and then let it dry, 45mins to an hour this weather. Apply one thing layer, one point to note is that you really want to get it away from wet weather and the dew point to increase durability. Geoff [/ QUOTE ] Hi Chaps, Thanks for the tips. No I don't have any Wolfgang Cleanser. I plan on giving the car a Clay first. Then I'll go over it lightly with some Farecla G10 Extra Fine Grade. I don't think you can beat the stuff, it leaves the paint so clean and fresh looking and ready for anything. I've still got a large bottle of Zymol HD Cleanse too, which I like using. The car is garaged so I'm hoping not to get any moisture issues. I've just taken delivery of a tin of Chemical Guys 50/50 wax and I've got to say first impressions are very good indeed, more to follow BUB Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bpsmith Posted November 24, 2006 Report Share Posted November 24, 2006 I tend to clay first and then use the Wolfgang Pre Wax Polish Enhancer before sticking the sealant on. The surface is like glass after the clay and then the Pre Wax stuff gets the surface squeeky clean and provides a great bond with the sealant. When I get the time I then follow up with Pinnacle Souveran Wax at least 24 hours later. This gives a wetter look than the sealant but still retain the durability. The CG 50/50 should do just the trick! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ska Posted November 24, 2006 Author Report Share Posted November 24, 2006 Will claying after the sealant is applied remove it? A tree has crapped all over my car and it was 4 car lengths away Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steelwind101 Posted November 24, 2006 Report Share Posted November 24, 2006 SKA, I am afraid it probably will. Unlesssssss you have the finest grade of clay and you are super gentle many people on Autopia have managed to do it. The best way to go about is to wash and dry the car. Then square off area using masking tape where you want to clay. Then you can AIO then reseal the whole panel. You can patch sael with the masking tape around if you want, depends on how much difference it will make!! If the car you are working is that silver Audi then you can probably patch seal as a silver is pretty good at hiding alot colour differences and imperfections. Geoff Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Avus_Bub Posted November 24, 2006 Report Share Posted November 24, 2006 [ QUOTE ] I tend to clay first and then use the Wolfgang Pre Wax Polish Enhancer before sticking the sealant on. The surface is like glass after the clay and then the Pre Wax stuff gets the surface squeeky clean and provides a great bond with the sealant. When I get the time I then follow up with Pinnacle Souveran Wax at least 24 hours later. This gives a wetter look than the sealant but still retain the durability. The CG 50/50 should do just the trick! [/ QUOTE ] You should give G10 a go that's just how it leaves the paint too I can't wait to give the 50/50 a go!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnss8 Posted November 24, 2006 Report Share Posted November 24, 2006 [ QUOTE ] I can't wait to give the 50/50 a go!! [/ QUOTE ] Bub i've tried the 50/50 but affraid it wasn't to my liking still went back to Souveran, but thats my opinion you may like it Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BryD Posted November 24, 2006 Report Share Posted November 24, 2006 I have some 50/50 (no.20 IIRC) i find it very comparable to P21s Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steelwind101 Posted November 24, 2006 Report Share Posted November 24, 2006 Pinnicle cleansing lotion is probably identicle to the Wolfgang stuff and i find it great as a light cleaner. It also contains plenty of oils as well as Kanolin clay to help remove any extremely minor bonded contams. from the surface of the car. Geoff Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NeilScarrott Posted November 24, 2006 Report Share Posted November 24, 2006 Would like to see the 50/50 results too, have heard very good things said about this product. One of the guys over at detailingworld said he thought it was very similar to Zymol Destiny in looks and that is nearly £500 a pot Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BryD Posted November 24, 2006 Report Share Posted November 24, 2006 I think the problem with a lot of products is people can get carried away with all the hype that surrounds them, and a lot of it is subjective, some people might like the appearance of x finish and other that of product y, i guess at the end of the day its what you like, after all your the one buying it Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steelwind101 Posted November 24, 2006 Report Share Posted November 24, 2006 BryD makes such an important point with regard personal factors. Also what you lay down in prep can change the final out come of your whole process that really in order to achieve the same results as someone else you need to use the same glaze etc. Car colour too is a big player, some products look better or can enhance a colour much better then others. Geoff Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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