Muppet_man

You might want to try testing for power at the pump with a multi-meter, just because it's a bit safer than putting 12v straight onto the connectors without having disconnecting the motor. A back feed of power can damage a relay. Just have someone twist the ignition for you for just a second and then you should see power at the pump for around three to five seconds. On first try make sure you use an independent earth point than the one on the motor. If you get a voltage then try the earth on the motor. If this fails the problem is more likely to be on the relay or something telling the pump not to work. If it does have power however, it's a definite for the fuel pump. They're not horrendous to change yourself with just a bit of swearing. Good luck.

I've tried E-Bay, I've tried breakers, but for for the life of me I can't find a roller blind cover for my Allroad/A6. I've seen ones for everything else, even Q7's - how can they possibly be lost already! Does anyone know of one lingering around in their local breakers? Cheers chaps.

I'm sure most of you have seen this, but if you haven't Cupramax, it's worth checking out. Cheers LCD/Plasma - which one?

It's very difficult for the SR to leak because of the way it's designed unless there is too much water. The only way for there to be too much is if one of the four drains is blocked. Even if they seem OK it might be worth a check. Open the sunroof fully, with a small jug pour some water into the coners, one at a time. If it's possible, do this until you can see some water on the floor outside the car so you can see it's working. What can happen is one becomes blocked or semi blocked and then the pipe fills up with water. As you pull away the water then shots back up and soaks the roof. Failing that, the bad news is that the headlining would have to drop so you can check the seal around the mech to the roof and also the pipe outlets. That would be a real bummer. Good luck.

Cheers, much appreciated.

Hi Muppetboy (as Muppetman, does that make me your dad?!!). Try these two links. One will explain the difference between coaxial and optical and the other may offer you some general info. Cheers my boy. Coaxial/Optical explained AV amps, facts and info

The Shures are excellent, you could also try the new JBL ones (if you can find them) very similar to the Shures really but very affordable. Cheers

Just bought two Avons for my S8 and they cost £135.00 each Not to bad I thought.

I haven't been on here for months as I lost my father and it's taken me awhile to get over it. Last week I picked up an 03 reg Polo 1.2 for my mum so she has a car of her own to get about in. It's a great little car, but has two faults. 1). It only came with one key. I've ordered a new one, but can it be matched to the car without being done by the dealer? 2). The car has A/C which works well, however, if you have it on cold it works a treat. If you have it on hot it works a treat. Anything in between works for a short while and then it goes on to full hot. Is seems to me to be a problem with the motor that controls the hot/cold air flap. The motor is about £70.00, which is not the end of the world, but you seem to have to take out the dash to fit it and then have it set by the dealer to register its positions to make sure it works correctly. Does anyone have a procedure for removing the dash on one of these as the dealers would charge over £500.00! Thanks all.

Yo gIzzE. Different systems produce different results with cables. When we compared the cables - 4 x Wireworld, 2 x Techlink, 2 x Molex, 2 x QED, 2 x Ixos, 3 x Supra, 2 x Chord and 2 x Nordost on our reference system of InFocus 777 3 chip DLP projector, 8 foot screen, Lexicon Processor, Lexicon Dvd and Pixelmagic Chrystalio Scaler we found huge differences in the cables. The Molex came out well for it's price but only about half way overall. I've learnt over the years only to practise what we preach and only speak of things we have given a fair try too. There were some suprises in there though, the very affordable Techlink came out very well, even better than the top QED, which has won lots of awards and cost twice as much. But then we have never been ones to follow magazines. But we know that people form their own opinions, which is why everyone has different systems, no two of us think the same. You could have got a sat nav, I have sold two of those in the past from S6's. Did you fit it OK? Cheers

That's bloody funny.

During the summer I would have to say the BMW has it, more urge and you can really sling it about, better steering feel too. In any other weather though the S8 is going to do it for me, no drama and still lots of go where others scrabble. They are both great to drive though, tough decision. Good luck.

I'd have to agree with you on the Flow game, it's really simple but mesmerising to play. Fall of man gets my vote at the moment, but I think they are just scratching the surface at the moment, another six months and the games should improve a great deal.

We don't sell the Sony amp you have on the list, but I would have the Onkyo as the first choice of the other two. Less gimmicks but far better sounding, especially when just playing two channel. I wouldn't recommend upscaling your component to HDMi either. No amp offers a better picture from your component when upscaled to HDMi than component offers it self, they always have more artifacts in the picture - digital fidgeting - as we call it. On the cable front, if you can afford it, try to spend a bit more on your cables, especially your HDMi, Wireworld would be our best choice, but QED, or the better range of techlink if your local dealer has them would do fine also. Good luck.

Hi Muppetboy, I didn't know I had a son!

We messed up with some orders and so had four of these, two left now if anyone fancied one. No offence meant to other uses by this post. http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=120114524360

Samsung LCD's have a bit of a habit of blowing their output op-amp. Our engineer has repaired several. Usually costs around £40 to £50. Although I would suggest that this will depend on the area you live in. A London engineer may well be quite a bit more. Good luck.

When I used to work at Renault we had a seperate body shop. A couple of times we sprayed wheels the same colour as the car but it didn't look right. Then we found if we sprayed the inside the same colour as the car but left the rim outside of the spokes in silver it looked quite tasty. Just a suggestion. Good luck.

What area do you live shed?

Couldn't see that one, the link doesn't seem to work.

There are loads of breather pipes, but none of them should be that expensive. Some are just standard hoses that you can buy at the local Motor Factors.

£0.50p What a saint I am. There wasn't one on there for lying was there?

Got some pics please?

Don't panic. The thing that eventually wears on these engines is the valve guides. If you really have a teararse 15 mins in your car and then park up, the next day your likely to see some smoke on start up. The hot engine allows a small amount of oil to run down the guides into the engine when it sitting over night. Even without the burn up the day before (which I'm sure you never do of course ) then sometimes the engine will stop with one of the valves in just the perfect position for some oil to run down the slightly worn stem. Don't be concerned, it will probably do another two hundred thousand miles before they cause a real problem.

Bearings react to loadings. So they will be most apparent as you turn slightly as they are making a noise, either left or right depending on which bearing has gone. The other thing to check is drive shaft ends as a dry joint caused by a split gaitor could also cause a noise with a vibration. A quick looksee should confirm those are OK. Otherwise wait and see what happens after your tyre change. Good luck.