willie1973 Posted January 9, 2009 Report Share Posted January 9, 2009 Hello, Could you guys confirm A4 Symphony II+ to RNS-E wiring changes; Bose pin....... b5 to b7 K-line........... c7 to b5 I assume that the b7 slot should be empty to accomodate the Bose Pin???? If not, what to do??? Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PetrolDave Posted January 10, 2009 Report Share Posted January 10, 2009 If b7 isn't empty that implies that you have the Aux socket - which makes the retrofit more complex since on the RNS-E the Aux input pins are on the AV connector and not on the Quadlock. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
craigyb Posted January 10, 2009 Report Share Posted January 10, 2009 But they never fitted the AUX socket on the B7 chassis , so it should be empty. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
willie1973 Posted January 10, 2009 Author Report Share Posted January 10, 2009 Thanks chaps, very helpful. RNS-E is currently fitted, but cannot make diagnostic link to RNS-E so assume pins not moved (waiting for reply from chap who fitted it), Everything works fine though, including the speakers.......will moving the BOSE pin from B5 to B7 make any difference to the sound or is it simply a case of making way for the diagnostic pin??? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PetrolDave Posted January 10, 2009 Report Share Posted January 10, 2009 will moving the BOSE pin from B5 to B7 make any difference to the sound or is it simply a case of making way for the diagnostic pin??? If the Bose pin is connected differently to how the RNS-E is coded it will make the RNS-E log a fault code. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
willie1973 Posted January 11, 2009 Author Report Share Posted January 11, 2009 Thanks, Do intend to wire properly, was just wondering how/if the sound would change with the BOSE pin moved to the correct position???? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PetrolDave Posted January 11, 2009 Report Share Posted January 11, 2009 Do intend to wire properly, was just wondering how/if the sound would change with the BOSE pin moved to the correct position???? If the unit is coded for Bose but the Bose pin isn't grounded some people have reported that the RNS-E defaults to having the non-Bose car specific equalisation enabled - which makes the bass very "thin". Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
willie1973 Posted January 11, 2009 Author Report Share Posted January 11, 2009 Ahhh, That's odd because I have the opposite complaint at the moment.......the RNS-E is too bassy, I generally have the dial half way between completely off and the default setting at the top of the dial. Will be interesting to see what happens when Bose pin moved. Thanks PD Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
willie1973 Posted January 14, 2009 Author Report Share Posted January 14, 2009 Just to update, spoke to guy who fitted RNS-E and didn't move any wires, as expected. I do get all the correct BOSE menues on the HU though (no GALA, only treble and bass) so am a tad confused (RNS-E came from B7 RS4 avant...all had BOSE(?)...mine a B7 avant). Is it possible that the BOSE amp and the HU are working together and this is why the sound is so bassy or is it just that the unit may be coded for BOSE, and thus display BOSE menus, but in fact the it's only the RNS-E that is driving everything??? Is it possible to change Bass settings with the coding?? Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
craigyb Posted January 14, 2009 Report Share Posted January 14, 2009 You should move the wires as you first posted. K-line is currently grounded by your BOSE wire and the BOSE pin is open circuit. The cars K-line is going nowhere. So move them as suggested. Your can't alter the bass at all with VAG. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
willie1973 Posted January 14, 2009 Author Report Share Posted January 14, 2009 Yes agreed, Always intended to move pins to correct positions, was just wandering what is happening at the moment and why it's so bassy as most people have the opposite complaint when Bose pin not in correct place. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PetrolDave Posted January 15, 2009 Report Share Posted January 15, 2009 When the wiring isn't right I don't see the point in speculating... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
willie1973 Posted March 6, 2009 Author Report Share Posted March 6, 2009 UPDATE; Have had BOSE and diagnostic wire moved to their correct positions and can report that the sound has now returned back to normal. The overall sound is better, although as head units I must say that any differences between the RNS-E and the Symphony II+ are minimal. I do feel that BOSE could have pushed the bass a little more though.....even at full wack the bass is nowhere near what it was when the BOSE pin wasn't in the correct position...the car shook. So for anyone wanting big bass.....don't use the BOSE pin. Having said that, distortion definately became an issue when really cranked up so not a brilliant sub, but still lots more to give than BOSE allow. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adamski74 Posted October 29, 2009 Report Share Posted October 29, 2009 I have a B7 avant with Bose and the Gen II+ single cd Radio and ipod adapter. If i buy a RNS-e do i need to have a radio adapter too? Moving the pins sounds a bit complicated? has anyone done a write up or have any photos? I live near edinburgh and have access to VAG-COM but just wanted to be sue i'm not going to be dissapointed if i shell out £500? I have searched to see if there was any more so apologies if i missed something. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PetrolDave Posted October 29, 2009 Report Share Posted October 29, 2009 I have a B7 avant with Bose and the Gen II+ single cd Radio and ipod adapter. If i buy a RNS-e do i need to have a radio adapter too? No but you do have to move both the K-line and Bose pins - and if you have the Aux input you need to relocate those 3 pins to the 32 pin AV connector. Plus you WILL have the DTC caused by the RNS-E using an HF/ZF antenna system and the II+ radios using a dual HF antenna system - and the effect of this is slightly worse radio reception. This is curable either by adding a VW module to convert the antenna system to an HF/ZF one or by replacing the antenna amps in your car. Moving the pins sounds a bit complicated? has anyone done a write up or have any photos? It's not complicated, you just need to double check that you're about to move the correct pin. There's some good write-ups on Audi Forum Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adamski74 Posted November 3, 2009 Report Share Posted November 3, 2009 thanks Dave, I have bought the RNS-e now and will try and take pics of the install and the moving of pins. Wish me luck! I rareley listen to the radio as i have a Dension 100 ipod kit so will leave the diversity box for now. What would we do with out the forum?! (probably bleed money to the dealers!) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adamski74 Posted November 5, 2009 Report Share Posted November 5, 2009 well you were right the pins etc were a doddle to move and i even got the dials out to fit the antenna! (i will get a write up done with pics soon) BUT the rns-e wont accept the code! I got it with an audi nav dvd and an audi card saying the correct part code for the unit but the code didnt work? it went in to safe mode for an hour and then rejected the code again is there anything i can do? Could the wiring be stopping the unit accepting the code? When i put my old Concert II+ back in it didnt require a code at all? so i was wondering if the car remembers the code and thats why it wouldnt accept the new one? The seller ASSURES me he tested the unit before sale although doesnt seem very helpful. Any thoughts? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cockney Boy Posted November 5, 2009 Report Share Posted November 5, 2009 Your car will not remember the old code, but i would say that the card supplied with the RNS-E is not the correct one. Audi could find out what the code is, or contact the seller who you purchased it from. well you were right the pins etc were a doddle to move and i even got the dials out to fit the antenna! (i will get a write up done with pics soon) BUT the rns-e wont accept the code! I got it with an audi nav dvd and an audi card saying the correct part code for the unit but the code didnt work? it went in to safe mode for an hour and then rejected the code again is there anything i can do? Could the wiring be stopping the unit accepting the code? When i put my old Concert II+ back in it didnt require a code at all? so i was wondering if the car remembers the code and thats why it wouldnt accept the new one? The seller ASSURES me he tested the unit before sale although doesnt seem very helpful. Any thoughts? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PetrolDave Posted November 5, 2009 Report Share Posted November 5, 2009 Could the wiring be stopping the unit accepting the code? When i put my old Concert II+ back in it didnt require a code at all? The wiring won't stop the unit accepting the correct code. It's not the car that remembers the radio code, it's the radio/sat nav that remembers the VIN of the car it was first installed into - and if the VIN of the car it's currently fitted to doesn't match then it will ask for the code each time the battery is disconnected. So the seller could have checked the unit and found it fine, but it won't have asked him for the code so he has probably given you the wrong code. If you put the RNS-E back into your car and visit a "friendly" dealer they can connect their VAS to your car and download the code from the Audi database. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adamski74 Posted November 6, 2009 Report Share Posted November 6, 2009 Thanks Guys, really appreciate the help here. Edinburgh Audi have been pretty good since they moved to new premises. I think their reputation was so bad i suspect they have had to really get their act sorted out. I'll also do a write up on the pin swap with pics to see if i can add somethign back to others trying this. I imagine with the II+ units being out for nearly 3 years a few of us will be upgrading. Only bad thing is that i was so stressed taking the dials out the pics didnt come out for that! I've waited years to have the audi i wanted so i can handle another week! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adamski74 Posted November 30, 2009 Report Share Posted November 30, 2009 ok I have it all installed now! working on my write up, got a replacement unit from the seller and i'm happy with the install. One thing to note is that the pin C10 which is labelled audiopilot on or off (for the concert II+) needs to be disconnected if you want the audiopilot to work on the RNS-e. However leaving it in the quadlock seems to ground that wire and disable audiopilot. I actually prefer the sound with this function disabled especially at speed the bass is much better. If you code the RNS-e for audiopilot you lose the gala options in the menu however if you code it for gala you get the option to turn it off so i've left the coding like that for now to see if i like using gala instead of audiopilot. The main thing is that by grounding that pin you can turn on and off audiopilot which before it thought you had to ground pins at the amp for? worth a note. either that or my car is probably on fire in the car park as i type this! lol Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
softroader Posted December 20, 2010 Report Share Posted December 20, 2010 Sorry to drag up an old thread, but can anyone assist with my RNS-E wiring issues?? I'm trying to install an RNS-E into my A4 with BOSE (it currently has an aftermarket Phone kit, but that will be coming out and eventually an OEM one will be retrofitted).... I've bought an adapter cable from Fleabay (not a Kufatec one) and it doesn't have a BOSE pin fitted in slot 7 of connector B, I've had a rummage round on t'internet and found that you have to move the pin from B5 to B7 - so I've done that (but at the Quadlock end only - does it need to be both ends???) But, I've also seen at the beginning of this thread that you need to move a pin from C7 to B5 - does anyone know definitively if this pin needs to be moved?? Reason I ask, is that C7 appears to be vacant, so there is no pin to move to B5! Confused? Me too... I just want to get this installed and working! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PetrolDave Posted December 29, 2010 Report Share Posted December 29, 2010 I've bought an adapter cable from Fleabay (not a Kufatec one) and it doesn't have a BOSE pin fitted in slot 7 of connector B, I've had a rummage round on t'internet and found that you have to move the pin from B5 to B7 - so I've done that (but at the Quadlock end only - does it need to be both ends???)But, I've also seen at the beginning of this thread that you need to move a pin from C7 to B5 - does anyone know definitively if this pin needs to be moved?? Reason I ask, is that C7 appears to be vacant, so there is no pin to move to B5! If you need a Quadlock adapter then you have a Symphony II and there's no wires to move, moving wires ONLY applies to swapping a Symphony II+ to an RNS-E. It sounds like you bought a non-Bose adapter on eBay, which will be missing the Bose wire and probably the FL and FR line level signals too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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