Brabus Posted October 13, 2009 Author Report Share Posted October 13, 2009 Thanks for the detailed replies everyone. I had an idea the Legacy was the one to go for and it's comforting to hear good things about them. Don't need massive clearance but like the safety of 4wd. There is a stretch of road which can be quite stop/start and has a steep gradient. If there is snow on the road, forget traction with anything but a 4wd car. I'll be focusing my search on 1996 models (Mk2?) as these have the least mechanical problems (or so I've read) and seem to be best value for money. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Teacake Posted October 13, 2009 Report Share Posted October 13, 2009 Thanks for the detailed replies everyone. I had an idea the Legacy was the one to go for and it's comforting to hear good things about them.Don't need massive clearance but like the safety of 4wd. There is a stretch of road which can be quite stop/start and has a steep gradient. If there is snow on the road, forget traction with anything but a 4wd car. I'll be focusing my search on 1996 models (Mk2?) as these have the least mechanical problems (or so I've read) and seem to be best value for money. If you're looking at Mk IIs (the BD/BG/BK for Subaru-istas) I'd personally steer clear of the 2.5. When I was looking at getting a cheap Outback a couple of years ago, there were a lot that had needed head gaskets. The 2.0 is not lightning-quick, but it does suprisingly well, and you can carry more speed than you ever thought possible through corners. My sister has a Mk III 2.0 which is a hoot to drive, and I always enjoyed the Mk I 2.0 I had. There'll be no UK turbo cars in the age range you've selected. There are Jap-market twin-turbos, but they'll be pricier and if you're looking at that sort of thing you'd be better going for a Mk III (had one, lovely car). I don't think the Mk I is any less reliable than the Mk II, and both are now at the sort of age where the care they've had is far more important than the letter on the front of the registration plate. Where you may see a difference is that arches tend to rust on the Mk I, although it never happened to any of mine, and the Mk II may be better equipped. ABS was not fitted on the non-turbo Mk I, I'm not sure if it got to the Mk II, likewise for air-con. A Legacy should be fine for the sort of use you described. I used to live halfway up a mountain, with a narrow 1 in 3 the only route up. I never got stuck, whatever the weather. Whichever one you decide, don't bother fitting big wheels, they don't need 'em. A Legacy on 175/14s will still corner like it's on rails, but will also soak up the bumps as if they're not there. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brabus Posted October 14, 2009 Author Report Share Posted October 14, 2009 Found a '99 2.5 Outback but it is automatic. I read that there can be problems with the automotic gearbox at higher mileage, is that so? Better to hold out for a manual? What are the main differences with an Outback vs normal version? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
garcon magnifique Posted October 14, 2009 Report Share Posted October 14, 2009 Main difference with the Outback is higher ground clearance and some plastic bits. Think Audi Allroad. I'd go with what teacake says - keep it simple. 2.0 manual. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Teacake Posted October 14, 2009 Report Share Posted October 14, 2009 Found a '99 2.5 Outback but it is automatic. I read that there can be problems with the automotic gearbox at higher mileage, is that so? Better to hold out for a manual?What are the main differences with an Outback vs normal version? A '99. Is it a Mk II or a Mk III? I've not heard bad stories about the Mk III 2.5 (but I've also not heard that they're better than the Mk II). So I'd probably go with garcon's recommendation of my recommendation - stick with a 2.0, unless it's in decent nick and cheap enough to be throwaway if it croaks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
garcon magnifique Posted October 14, 2009 Report Share Posted October 14, 2009 One thing to think about on the Outback (but bearing in mind it's about the only Subaru I've never been out in), the extra ride height and slight extra weight do no help to fuel consumption, and it might be a little 'floaty' on the motorways. If ground clearance isn't an issue I'd stick with the standard Legacy estate. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brabus Posted October 23, 2009 Author Report Share Posted October 23, 2009 Following the advice on here I've found a 1997 Subaru Legacy 2.0LX 5 speeed manual with 148K miles. Service and cambelt done, MOT passed in june 2009, sold from a garage (sort of peace of mind). Bodywork a bit tatty but no rust. Price 3,000 chf or a comparitive 1500 gbp (seeing as the swiss franc is strong at the moment). Ok to take the plunge? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Teacake Posted October 23, 2009 Report Share Posted October 23, 2009 (edited) Following the advice on here I've found a 1997 Subaru Legacy 2.0LX 5 speeed manual with 148K miles.Service and cambelt done, MOT passed in june 2009, sold from a garage (sort of peace of mind). Bodywork a bit tatty but no rust. Price 3,000 chf or a comparitive 1500 gbp (seeing as the swiss franc is strong at the moment). Ok to take the plunge? I don't know what the prices are like near you, but that's about double what you'd pay in the UK. I'd certainly spend no more than a bag of sand for one of that age and mileage, and that's before taking into account possible tattiness. I wouldn't be afraid of one with that mileage, though. 148k miles is nicely run in. Edit: I don't recall the cambelt being that expensive to do, although on the twin cam cars (like that one - SOHC per bank) it'll use a chonking great single belt to do both sides. Quad cams (DOHC per bank) have a belt for each bank and are a little pricier. 2.0 Twin cams are also, I seem to recall, non-interference, so if the belt does let go it's not the end of the world. Edited October 23, 2009 by Teacake Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brabus Posted October 23, 2009 Author Report Share Posted October 23, 2009 Yes as mentioned, the swiss franc is strong at the moment so the exchange rate I've used is not a good comparison. This is one of the cheapest around. Most MrkI are going for the same price... So, what to look out for when I go to see it tomorrow? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Teacake Posted October 23, 2009 Report Share Posted October 23, 2009 Beyond the usual for any car: Body: check underside for any damage caused by over-optimistic off-roading. Look for leaky diffs (back axle and viscous coupling). I think the viscous coupling on these will be at the back of the gearbox (which is behind the engine, as these are longitudinal flat-fours, of course!). Look for damaged CV gaiters/joints on front. Look also for leaks from the underside of the oil pan. Under the bonnet: beyond the usual (mayonnaise under the oil filler cap etc), look for leaks from either cam cover at left or right of engine, and from the timing belt cover at the front. A small leak from the camshaft or crankshaft seals isn't usually a problem. The Subaru flat-four should burn virtually no oil, so if there are any tell-tale signs of high consumption, walk away. Check if it has a towbar; if it has, see if you can find out what it's been used for. If it's been used to drag twin horseboxes round muddy fields for ten years, the transmission might be feeling the strain. Inside: all the buttons and electrics will almost certainly be fine. If it has a sunroof, check the interior headlining and sunvisors for signs of leaks. On early cars, the seals perished, which was not easy to fix, but most owners will have learned to live with it rather than have the sunroof cassette out to fix the problem. Interiors are not the last word in comfort or luxury, but are basically bomb-proof. If the driver's seat or pedal rubbers are knackered, it might have done more than 148,000 miles. Driving: Check the transmission. There isn't any slack in the AWD system, so some owners go through clutches at a rate of knots. There should be no smell of burning clutch lining in normal use, but if you've never driven one before, you might produce a whiff or two pulling away from a stand-still until you get the hang of it. It should pull away smartly with no slipping, the gear change should be positive with no clonks or grinding. Having said that, the synchro on 2nd gear was iffy on one of mine for about 100,000 miles without ever totally giving up the ghost. As long as I was patient with the change and didn't rush it, it was fine. Check the low range if it has it. Check for any clonks or clicks when turning slowly in a circle at full lock. If you can get on a steep hill descent, go down it dead slow using engine braking, and watch for the check engine light coming on. If I think of anything else, I'll let you know. Good luck! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brabus Posted October 23, 2009 Author Report Share Posted October 23, 2009 What a star Have printed your notes and will be taking them along tomorrow. Cheers Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AvantSE Posted October 23, 2009 Report Share Posted October 23, 2009 Octavia 4x4 estate... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brabus Posted October 26, 2009 Author Report Share Posted October 26, 2009 I bought the Legacy in the picture above. Paintwork a bit scratched but no rust or dents. Mechanically it seems sound, no apparent leaks. Bought from a guy who looks after all the Subaru's in the region, seemed very passionate and genuine. New exhaust, snow tyres, cambelt changed recently. All electrics working including aircon. Fingers crossed it'll be a goodun! Thanks for all the help and advice everyone I'm a happy chappy with my new purchase Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Teacake Posted October 26, 2009 Report Share Posted October 26, 2009 Nice one. Glad to be of any help we could. Let us know how you get on with the new steed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
garcon magnifique Posted October 26, 2009 Report Share Posted October 26, 2009 Excellent news! Hope it proves to be a good 'un! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
theduisbergkid Posted October 27, 2009 Report Share Posted October 27, 2009 I bought the Legacy in the picture above. Paintwork a bit scratched but no rust or dents. Mechanically it seems sound, no apparent leaks. Bought from a guy who looks after all the Subaru's in the region, seemed very passionate and genuine. New exhaust, snow tyres, cambelt changed recently. All electrics working including aircon.Fingers crossed it'll be a goodun! Thanks for all the help and advice everyone I'm a happy chappy with my new purchase Great ! Hope you enjoy it. I know they have a cult following. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Teacake Posted October 27, 2009 Report Share Posted October 27, 2009 I know they have a cult following. Hey! That's not fair! Where d you get off saying things li- oh, you said cult... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brabus Posted January 4, 2010 Author Report Share Posted January 4, 2010 A pic to show my car doing what it does best Couple of questions. The spray for the windscreen/wipe doesn't work which is really annyoing this time of year with all the shite that's thrown up...could it be something as easy as a fuse that needs replacing? The pump sounds dead. Also when very cold (-10) there is a bit of clunking from underneath the car when going over bumps. It goes away when the car warms up, anything to worry about? Cheers Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JonC Posted January 4, 2010 Report Share Posted January 4, 2010 could it be something as easy as a fuse that needs replacing? The pump sounds dead That happened to me las week. No noise from pump and no squooshie. Replaced the fuse and all is well. 10amp, unless it changes from car to car Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brabus Posted January 4, 2010 Author Report Share Posted January 4, 2010 Thanks, I'll have a look at the fuse situation. Hopefully nothing expensive... Tipex, might you be able to shed some light on the knocking sound coming from when the car is cold? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tipex Posted January 5, 2010 Report Share Posted January 5, 2010 Hmm, we never experience temps that cold so it's not a problem I've heard of, all I can think of is perhaps the bushes go hard at those temps, and soften up slightly once everything is moving and warmed up? Is it a mechanical knocking, when going over bumps, or does it sound like somethings loose? Have you checked the screenwash? has it frozen? if so it's possible the stress on the pump has blown the fuse, or popped a water hose connection somewhere, does it make any noise at all? if it does, it's not the fuse. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brabus Posted January 5, 2010 Author Report Share Posted January 5, 2010 Screenwash is filled up, not frozen and the connections seem fine. Absolutely no noise from the pump so am hoping it is something simple as a fuse. The knocking definitely sounds like something is loose underneath the car and not mechanical (touch wood)...goes away after 10-15 minutes. Apart from that I am loving the car! Fuel economy is reasonable (8 litres per 100km average) it is really smooth and comfortable on the motorway. Traction is reasonable in snow but think the snow tyres need to be changed for next season. Have not revved the car beyond 4k rpm. Don't see the need of stressing an engine with 150K miles on it and keep the speed around an indicated 80 mph on the motorway. Overall a superb winter car, IMO Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JonC Posted January 5, 2010 Report Share Posted January 5, 2010 Absolutely no noise from the pump so am hoping it is something simple as a fuse That definately sounds like the fuse Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Teacake Posted January 5, 2010 Report Share Posted January 5, 2010 The knocking definitely sounds like something is loose underneath the car and not mechanical (touch wood)...goes away after 10-15 minutes. Couldn't be as simple as a loose exhaust heat shield, could it? Had rattles and bangs from those on both my Mk Is when cold, which went away when warm. Have not revved the car beyond 4k rpm. Don't see the need of stressing an engine with 150K miles on it and keep the speed around an indicated 80 mph on the motorway. I wouldn't be worried about using a few revs, these engines thrive on the occasional caning, as long as they're warm and are well-maintained. All mine got the cobwebs blown away at 6k+ revs every once in a while, and they were knocking on the door of 200k miles. There's a reason why they were popular transplants for home-build aircraft... Glad to hear you're getting on well with it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cruiser647 Posted January 5, 2010 Report Share Posted January 5, 2010 (8 litres per 100km average) What's that in English? Have not revved the car beyond 4k rpm. Don't see the need of stressing an engine with 150K miles Don't worry about that, Subaru engines are well made and should be fine! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Please sign in to comment
You will be able to leave a comment after signing in
Sign In Now