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Buying a Renaultsport Clio 172


rs32
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What are the upgrade plans then?

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sort the brakes, strip out the back, major engine service, racing wheel and then drive it !

Possibly a roll-cage later, but need to see how she behaves on the standard chasis setup.

The car will be properly prepared by APS.

Hoping to upgrade my own abilities shortly as well - must get some proper instruction to get the most from the car FIREdevil.gif

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[ QUOTE ]

[ QUOTE ]

What are the upgrade plans then?

[/ QUOTE ]

sort the brakes, strip out the back, major engine service, racing wheel and then drive it !

Possibly a roll-cage later, but need to see how she behaves on the standard chasis setup.

The car will be properly prepared by APS.

Hoping to upgrade my own abilities shortly as well - must get some proper instruction to get the most from the car FIREdevil.gif

169144-ok.gif

[/ QUOTE ]

give it a good go as it is first, they are a fairly sorted chassis from the factory 169144-ok.gif

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  • 1 month later...

most of the fitting credit goes to Dan32 who did a sterling job on the drill and specialist fixings. I'm a dab hand on the old long ratchet extension though ooo.gif

Oh, and it isn't the exact right part for my car but it fits perfectly now we have made a few "modifications" grin.gif

absolute bugger of a job, but very satisfying to see and feel how the car drives now.

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Does the front strut brace make much of a difference?

I drove a Fiesta Zetec-S which someone on a Fiesta forum who lived near me had when I was looking at buying one and he had a front strut brace (along with some silly 18" wheels I think) and the car seemed to skip and jump as it hit bumps where a standard car would shrug them off.

Quite disconcerting as you picked up speed as the front end would momentarily brush wide off line then pick up grip again.

Guess every chassis reacts to it differently though.

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yes it makes a big difference, dialling out the remaining understeer on a chassis that's had a lot of tweaking in the last few weeks.

has a noticeable improvement in grip, it does make the car a bit "harder" but not crashy and definitely more composed for motorway driving which is an added bonus.

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Rule #1 - Before you let an ex-BTCC driver muller your newly-prepared Clio around a track at proper race-pace be sure to have engine mounts, driveshafts, CV joints and wheel bearings in very good condition.

Rule #2 - do not forget that your engine mounts, driveshafts, CV joints and wheel bearings have already done 44k miles before allowing the car to be hammered, followed by giving it a good hammering yourself, then driving home.

Rule #3 - It's completely fine to drive your car in this state 115 miles at precisely 63mph, as this is the "sweet spot" at which broken CV joints do not make as much vibration or clonking noises.

Rule #4 - Do not, under any circumstance, drive you knackered CV joint up to 80mph as the juddering and vibration will bring up your breakfast.

Rule #5 - be prepared for a £640 parts bill plus at least 5 hours labour to repair the above pengy.gif

Rule #6 - whilst your car is being track-prepped for the first time, just replace the aforementioned bits. It means you won't have to take the "walk of death" with a broken CV joint.

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  • 1 month later...

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