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Installing anti rollbars - MKV R32 - simple?


theshadow
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I'm about to get my H&R ARBs fitted (finally arrived from APS...woo!) and was wondering if one of you guys who have them on already could guide me through the install process...

Rear looks like a piece of cake to fit - basically seems to require removing the cat-back portion of the exhaust (noproblem there, Milltek cat-back is going on at the same time anyhow).

But the front looks a bit more complicated...looks like the whole front subframe has to come out. It's been wisely recommended (by BenJamin) that I get a full alignment done after the install is done, which makes sense, but I'm just curious what to expect when we get the front subframe unbolted - does it just drop out nicely and allow the ARB to slide in or are there nasty surprises awaiting?

Thanks for any help!

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IIRC you chould mark the subframe with a metal scribe before you remove it, and get the alignment checked afterwards just to be sure.

The front is quite tricky as it has to pass through so much stuff, but do-able.

Be aware that the ARB bushes may be a very tight fit and that they could well be a bit squeaky for a while - I had some of the poly material reamed out to help with the creaking. It's normal for H&R stuff and should get better over time.

Be sure to have some strong large mole grips to clamp the ARB mounts to the drop-links, they take a fair bit of force and you need to be careful not to strip the threads on the bolts.

Based on my testing of the car, and evidence from the MkIV setups, go for least aggressive (outer holes) at the front and most aggressive (inner holes) at the rear.

Then turn ESP off and bingo ! You have a car that handles very nicely indeed FIREdevil.gif

169144-ok.gif

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You need to drop the front subframe, not remove it. You should get some silicon lube with the ARBs (for the bushes) - make sure you apply it. You'll also need to check it and re-lube the bushes at least annually.

Get the tracking done once fitted, so you can get the most from you new mods, plus you'll avoid wearing your tyres unevenly.

HTH

beerchug.gif

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Hmm, I'm pretty sure the subframe comes off entirely to fit the arb, but then again I could be wrong - never did it myself.

Definitely recommend the alignment, with 0 toe all around, and a bit less rear camber - say 1.0 to 1.25 negative, tops. That will let your front bite more, and your rear oversteer a little easier.

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0 degress Toe is fine - but beware the car "snaking" down B roads as it tries to fight opposing road camber i.e. the rear left wheel trying to follow one side of the road and the rear right wheel trying to follow the other) - I had this on the Clio before we made some further tweaks.

Slightly inwards Toe (e.g. between 0 and 0.5 degrees) would perhaps be more appropriate for a road car.

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Good tips all...hope just dropping the subframe works, will try that first.

Definitely getting a basic alignment done right after installation, then will take it to a proper race shop after to play with the camber/toe setting a little. My car's a dual duty race/street car, does alot of autox style events so will be very exciting to experiment with the new 'car' - arbs, haldex, milltek and BMC panel all going on at once this weekend, carbotech pads and dot 5.1 fluid to follow at the end of the month laugh.gif

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