alFR Posted April 4, 2009 Report Share Posted April 4, 2009 Hi, A few beginners' questions re: detailing. Planning to give my A4 a decent clean and protect over the long weekend coming up - from what I've read on here so far (great source of info by the way ) my plan is: Powerwash Shampoo (2 bucket method) Clay (maybe - see below!) Rinse/dry AG SRP AG EGP (2 coats) I was wondering: Any recommendations on a detergent for use with the powerwasher? I have my eye on the Aldi washer they have on offer tomorrow with the integrated detergent tank, so will likely have that but not a dedicated foaming lance. Is traffic film remover worth using? Clay - bit nervous about this. Any recommendations on whether Sonus green or the Megs quick clay is less likely to let me make a hash of my paint? Is it worth putting AG HD wax over the EGP? Are the two compatible? Any recommendations for "topping up" after the above regime at weekly washes to help the EGP/wax last longer? Lastly, any recommendations for a good interior cleaner? In the past I've just used Mr Sheen. Thanks in advance! Al Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steelwind101 Posted April 4, 2009 Report Share Posted April 4, 2009 Hi Al! As for something to use in your powerwash: dont use any detergents such as washing soap. These will strip protection from your paintwork but also they tend to dry out plastics and rubbers on the car. What alot of people use in the those detergent bottles is a product called "SNOW FOAM" which is unlikely to strip your wax, it softens dirty so when you spray the car with the hose alot of the gunk and grime washes away. Unless you live near one of the detail supply companies you will need to order it online, i think a big jug will cost you around £15. As for the clay: If you do not already have a product called a "quick detailer", which is a spray lubricant for the clay then you should get the Megs Quik Clay kit. It has the clay and the Quick Detailer. Both the Megs and the Sonus are very mild products and as long as the area you are working on is lubricated with the spray, and the clay is "gliding" across the sufrace you should be fine. If its getting stuck or smearing then you need more lube! Many reports suggest the HD wax will last as long as the EGP, i would use either, its probably pointless using both. I have not used the HD wax but i have seen it applied. It sticks with the reflective look that Autoglym products tend to give you. As for topping up: If you have a good shampoo and use it at the right dilution ratio most give you a bit of extra bling. My advice would be to pick up an additional "QUICK DETAILER" this would be different to the red bottled one you get the Megs kit. Something like NXT detailer you can get in Halfords, spray it on a panel BEFORE your dry it and it will give the car some extra shine and extend the protection of your wax or sealant. Autoglym do one called "ShowShine" its an spray can. As for the interior: Alot of guys use to two products, one to clean and one to shine. Unless your interior is really grubby that might be a bit overkill. I highly recommend a product called Meguiars Quik INTERIOR detailer. It leaves a smart matt appearence on your interior. Plastics wipe clean and clear as do radio and sat nav displays. It has a cleaning ability and a dressing element. Just wait between your two coats of EGP and you should be set with a nice looking car! Geoff Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alFR Posted April 4, 2009 Author Report Share Posted April 4, 2009 Cheers for the advice Geoff. I'll pick up some of the Snow Foam online and the Megs quik clay kit. I reckon I'll probably end up doing most of the stuff and 1 coat of EGP one day, then the second coat the day after. Are there any waxes it's worth using on top of the EGP, or would you always just use that on its own? I have to say I'm finding it a bit confusing which products are compatible with which and which it's worth using on top of each other. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steelwind101 Posted April 4, 2009 Report Share Posted April 4, 2009 Hi Al If you are ordering online and want to know what are the best Quick Detailer's that you can get from that online shop, post the name of shop and i will let you know . With regard what products can go on top of which it can be confusing. Anything that is with out a cleaning action can go on top of EGP. Super REsin Polish has cleaning action and would remove the EGP as an example. EGP gives a reflective look, its an old school sealant. What that means is that you can make it look "wetter" and make the the raised lines say on the bonnet look nicer by applying wax after your last coat of EGP. Depending on the colour of your car will really make difference. Alot of people, including myself use or have used Nattys paste wax over EGP, It will make it look alot better! Its a popular product and costs about £12, there Nattys Orignal for light colours, Nattys Blue for dark and Nattys Red for either colour but it costs more and looks better. Once these are applied you cannot reapply EGP over them. There are lots of spray products you can use if you wanted. They are simple as spraying, wiping and buffing. Optimum Spray Wax Pinnicle Souveran Spray Wax Durgaloss Aqua Wax Geoff Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alFR Posted April 5, 2009 Author Report Share Posted April 5, 2009 Thanks again. I might give the Nattys Blue a try as the car is dark metallic grey. Once the wax is worn/SRP has been used again on the car in a few months is it OK to reapply the EGP, or does the Nattys forever prevent you using EGP afterwards? I reckon I'll order from Elite Car Care, they seem to have a good rep on here and look to have everything I was wanting. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tarmac_Terrorist Posted April 5, 2009 Report Share Posted April 5, 2009 Hi alFR, EGP contains solvents which basically removes the wax if you try to apply it on top. You would be fine to apply SRP again when necessary, then a layer of EGP if you wish, prior to a coat of Natty's (or indeed any other wax of choice). As a general rule, the process should be polish, seal then wax. As previously suggested, you can skip the EGP if you wish and go straight from SRP to applying wax if you wish. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JonC Posted April 6, 2009 Report Share Posted April 6, 2009 I reckon I'll order from Elite Car Care, they seem to have a good rep on here and look to have everything I was wanting. Quote "TSN" in the "redeem coupon" when you go to the checkout as it's worth a 5% discount Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alFR Posted April 6, 2009 Author Report Share Posted April 6, 2009 Thanks! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tarmac_Terrorist Posted April 6, 2009 Report Share Posted April 6, 2009 Quote "TSN" in the "redeem coupon" when you go to the checkout as it's worth a 5% discount Cheers JC - I didn't know that either. I've placed a couple of orders there recently too! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JonC Posted April 6, 2009 Report Share Posted April 6, 2009 No worries. I've only just found out myself as I've recently become a customer- emailed them and asked if there was a TSN discount. They stock a superb range. All deliveries arrive swiftly and well packaged. Very impressed. I believe they're a husband and wife team Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Arch Posted April 6, 2009 Report Share Posted April 6, 2009 No worries. I've only just found out myself as I've recently become a customer- emailed them and asked if there was a TSN discount. They stock a superb range. All deliveries arrive swiftly and well packaged. Very impressed. I believe they're a husband and wife team Ditto. Received all my kit today, mainly Geoffs recommendations from my other thread with some new buckets, grit guards and other bits too. Actually looking forward to cleaning my car for the first time in a very long while. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steelwind101 Posted April 7, 2009 Report Share Posted April 7, 2009 Geoffs recommendations....scary! I hope you get all the gear it should work out fine. Post up photos of your looty! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alFR Posted April 7, 2009 Author Report Share Posted April 7, 2009 One last question - I need to touch up a couple of stone chips (just dabbing in a bit of touchup paint, not a proper SMART repair or anything) - how long after that should I leave it before polishing etc.? Was hoping to do those before the big clean.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JonC Posted April 7, 2009 Report Share Posted April 7, 2009 Good question; I'd be keen to hear people's thought, too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steelwind101 Posted April 7, 2009 Report Share Posted April 7, 2009 Hi, I tend to fill up with colour, top with clear then come and polish with a non-sealing product then come back a few weeks later and seal. I dont think its quite like having the repaint. Geoff Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tarmac_Terrorist Posted April 7, 2009 Report Share Posted April 7, 2009 I usually find that the paint colour is darker than it should be, especially if it's metallic paint and I rarely get the finish I desire. I read somewhere that many of the modern touch up paints are a mix of lacquer & paint so it's not essetial to add the clearcoat on top. Don't know how accurate this is though. Some slightly overfill the chip, allow to dry and then wet sand it flat and polish the shine back. I'm not brave enough to try that sort of thing! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steelwind101 Posted April 7, 2009 Report Share Posted April 7, 2009 Hi! There various posts of people using different chemicals to get an even finish, post on here and various sites. I still stand behind a product that has worked for years for me. TT i think you are reffering to the dreaded "blob" and if so you need the "Blob eliminator". Its an american product from LANGKA. See here LANGKA Paint Chip and Scratch Repair I think the kits, get a couple as the product lasts for years are about £18 shipped. Its well worth it, trust me! The only thing is, if you dont try it early the Blob Eliminator will remove the the touch up paint and blob so make sure you let it set before getting going with LANGKA kit! Geoff Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tarmac_Terrorist Posted April 7, 2009 Report Share Posted April 7, 2009 Now that looks like a handy bit of kit! The sort of thing I guess I should buy before I need it - thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JonC Posted April 8, 2009 Report Share Posted April 8, 2009 That does sound like an easy job, too. Simply fill and remove excess paint blob 4 hours later. I have one chip, about 3-4mm in diameter and about 1mm in depth which could sure use this kit. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steelwind101 Posted April 8, 2009 Report Share Posted April 8, 2009 I would say this kit has worked for me about 85% of the time. Always do a test "elimination" as some paints take longer to harden then others, as i said you can sometimes pop the whole filled chip out. You can buy this from Frosts. There is a secret to good chip filling but i have forgot what it was, lol. It was either to only put 2 coats of colour and fill the rest with clear or the other way around. I will have to think about it! Geoff Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alFR Posted April 8, 2009 Author Report Share Posted April 8, 2009 Hmm, that Langka kit looks interesting. Given that they report on their website that you can get problems with metallics (apparently something to do with the way the paint flakes settle, so when you smooth out the blob you also get rid of the surface flakes), if you've got a metallic it might be better to use only a couple of coats of colour, make it proud with the lacquer, then smooth? Anyone got any opinions on how the Langka method (assuming it went well) would compare to a proper SMART repair? One of my chips is in the middle of the roof near the front, so I'm not sure a SMART repairer would touch it anyway - don't they dislike doing chips in the middle of horizontal flat panel surfaces? If that's the case the Langka kit might be a good alternative... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steelwind101 Posted April 8, 2009 Report Share Posted April 8, 2009 Hi! OK just checking back over my usual methods and couple of colour then clearcoat to fill is what i not normally do (obviously not that often). I have not noticed issues with metalic paints before. There are alot of good SMART repaiers with real integrity out there, so i read and see. I cant offer any personal recommendations. Im sure one would look and quote or wave his head if he thought it wasnt worth your his while. If a no is the case then go with the Langka, worked for me . Geoff Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JonC Posted April 9, 2009 Report Share Posted April 9, 2009 Anyone got any opinions on how the Langka method (assuming it went well) would compare to a proper SMART repair? One of my chips is in the middle of the roof near the front, so I'm not sure a SMART repairer would touch it anyway - don't they dislike doing chips in the middle of horizontal flat panel surfaces? If that's the case the Langka kit might be a good alternative... I know they won't do bonnets and I can't remember why - something to do with the horizontal....? The SMART repair uses a very "watered" down paint compared to the normal. Again, not sure if that's a good or bad thing, but I guess it gets the job done. You hear many shocking reports of SMART repairers, but they are decent and skilled ones out there I'm told. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tarmac_Terrorist Posted April 9, 2009 Report Share Posted April 9, 2009 I know they won't do bonnets and I can't remember why - something to do with the horizontal....? The SMART repair uses a very "watered" down paint compared to the normal. Again, not sure if that's a good or bad thing, but I guess it gets the job done. You hear many shocking reports of SMART repairers, but they are decent and skilled ones out there I'm told. Where else do you get stone chips if not on the bonnet? Didn't chips away sell themselves as repairers who paint just the chip and not the whole bonnet? The Chps away guy near me has a unit he works from and all the cars he does seem to be having full panel resprays....not very smart eh! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alFR Posted April 14, 2009 Author Report Share Posted April 14, 2009 Quick touch up query now - have been filling the abovementioned chip/scratch on my roof with OEM Audi touch up paint (dolphin grey metallic), The paint code is correct, it's well shaken before use and the colour looks fine in the pot (and when first applied) but it keeps drying a lighter colour than the surrounding paint. I wondered if it could be: The way I'm applying it (with a fine art brush) - only a small volume goes on at a time, could that be disturbing the mix of metallic flakes/base colour? The fact that the surrounding paint is clearcoated whereas the new paint isn't yet. Anyone got any experience of this type of issue and how to not get it? :confused: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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