Baldrik Posted April 21, 2009 Report Share Posted April 21, 2009 Just been to the stealers to have them fix a rattle which they said they had fixed at the service 2 months ago. When they opened the bonnet the plastic engine cover was found to be broken. There was a crack from the edge to the hole for the oil filler cap. This had nothing to do with the rattle but p*ssed me off all the same!! I reckon the ham-fisted mechanics broke it at the service cos I never noticed it before and I check the oil quite regularly as it drinks it. He quoted me 200 quid for a new one and 30 quid for the labour to replace it. Anyone else had a broken cover? Is it shoddy build quality or ham-fistedness? Is it easy to replace? Can it be bought cheaper elsewhere?? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mook Posted April 21, 2009 Report Share Posted April 21, 2009 Try fleabay - search for "breaking mk5 golf" (assuming you've got a Mk5!) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt R Posted April 21, 2009 Report Share Posted April 21, 2009 Have you had the Air Filter replaced? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Baldrik Posted April 21, 2009 Author Report Share Posted April 21, 2009 I reckon that was replaced in the last service. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mollox Posted April 21, 2009 Report Share Posted April 21, 2009 Be annoyed - I've kept my car almost showroom fresh since I've had it and the most "damage" it has is under the bonnet where, over time, I've noticed a number of missing screws, broken clips, cracked panels. The other day I noticed that half the plastic covering my chassis number is missing. Now, I make a point of trying to avoid spending time under the bonnet so its sure as hell not me that's done that. The feckers. Try proving it though Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tarmac_Terrorist Posted April 21, 2009 Report Share Posted April 21, 2009 I reckon that was replaced in the last service. Will be on the invoice / work schedule I guess. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JonC Posted April 21, 2009 Report Share Posted April 21, 2009 £200 for an OEM one seems about right for VW parts , but £30 to replace it is a rip-off. It's an absolute doddle to replace - if I can do it, anyone can. Neuspeed and Carbonio both offer carbon engine covers for about £100 or thereabouts more than the OEM cover, but I appreciate that's excessive. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bodger00 Posted April 21, 2009 Report Share Posted April 21, 2009 My guess is they cracked it! It takes some yanking to get it free from the rubber mounts! If the air filter was replaced the cover has to come off. I recon it is unlikely that it simply snapped by itself as they are not that brittle. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JonC Posted April 21, 2009 Report Share Posted April 21, 2009 My guess is they cracked it! It takes some yanking to get it free from the rubber mounts! Precisely that I reckon. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Baldrik Posted April 22, 2009 Author Report Share Posted April 22, 2009 Air flter was replaced. The service cost me the best part of 800 quid and now I need to find another 200 for a replacement cover!! I am kicking myself for not checking their work. I have never had the cover off so it sure as hell ain't me. I am tempted to go back and kick up a fuss but I feel they will not fess up. Not HP. Also I am still getting the rattle/squeak/knocking noises from the front again...... Generally disgusted with the service I have got so far from VW. Love the car - hate the service. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JonC Posted April 22, 2009 Report Share Posted April 22, 2009 The service cost me the best part of 800 quid and now I need to find another 200 for a replacement cover!! £800? How old is the car and how many miles has it covered? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Baldrik Posted April 22, 2009 Author Report Share Posted April 22, 2009 It is just over 3 years old now. I have covered 66,000 km in that time. The service cost more due to bushes needing to be replaced. With labour costs running at 100 euros an hour the cost soon spiralled...... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JonC Posted April 22, 2009 Report Share Posted April 22, 2009 That's an extortionate labour rate. You're in ROI, right? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Baldrik Posted April 22, 2009 Author Report Share Posted April 22, 2009 Germany.....I think you would find that is the same for VW dealers all over.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JonC Posted April 22, 2009 Report Share Posted April 22, 2009 Germany.....I think you would find that is the same for VW dealers all over.... Afraid not, mate. £47 per hour here in Edinburgh. Even less so in some parts of Scotland Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Baldrik Posted April 23, 2009 Author Report Share Posted April 23, 2009 That's still more than my hourly rate! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mollox Posted April 23, 2009 Report Share Posted April 23, 2009 I'm sure it was £96 + VAT / hour here last time I asked Audi. Re the engine cover - it is a dilemna. Perhaps a courteous call to the service manager explaining that you can't help but believe the engine cover was replaced last time the car was with them BUT you don't want to get into a slanging match with them about it - suggest a reasonable compromise solution: they charge you cost for the cover and you pay a nominal fitting charge. The alternative is a war of attrition with your dealer, the time cost of getting VWUK involved, and in most people's experience (unless you have the willpower to carry on for months) an inconclusive outcome. This way you might end up paying half the quoted cost and just get it over with. Its one of those things that (in the absence of a dated set of photos taken in the company of the Sales Manager when you dropped the car off) you're simply never going to prove. Bon chance! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ludwig Posted April 28, 2009 Report Share Posted April 28, 2009 joncowling, re. "It's an absolute doddle to replace - if I can do it, anyone can." Have you got time to give us a "step-by-step" guide on how to do it? I'd like to have a go at replacing my air filter. I'm not letting the dealer near it because they broke the cover when removing it to replace the alternator (and battery) about 18 months ago! Cover replaced under warranty. Ludwig Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JonC Posted April 28, 2009 Report Share Posted April 28, 2009 joncowling, re. "It's an absolute doddle to replace - if I can do it, anyone can."Have you got time to give us a "step-by-step" guide on how to do it? I'd like to have a go at replacing my air filter Sure: 1. Remove the 2 screws (torx head) that hold the inlet to the radiator (remember to keep these!). 2. Loosen the the spring clamp which holds the inlet to the engine cover and once loose, remove the inlet. 3. Disconnect the MAF wire (top left of engine bay) by depressing its fixing clip and pulling it apart (the flixing clip needs to be depressed fully in order for it to come apart). 4. Unclip the 2 metal clips that hold the inlet tube to the engine cover. 5. Pull the inlet tube from the engine cover. 6. The engine cover is held in place by 4 rubber grommets (2 on the dash side and 2 on the radiator side). Grab the sides of the engine cover and pull sharply upwards. Be sure to get a firm grip round the engine cover. It took me a few tugs before it came off. Make sure that the 4 rubber grommets are still in the holes in the engine cover. If not pull them off the engine fixings and replace back in the engine cover. 7. Turn the engine cover over to reveal the underside and loosen all the Phillips head screws (they only loosen and cannot be removed) that hold the air filter and it's casing to the engine cover. 8. Separate the 2 pieces to reveal the air filter and maintain/replace accordingly. 9. Reverse the above steps to replace. P.S: I rubbed some LM grease around the rubber grommets before replacing the engine cover back as it made it much easier to replace Hope that helps Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
petsy Posted April 28, 2009 Report Share Posted April 28, 2009 Be careful of using anything but silicone based grease on the grommets to avould rotting them... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ludwig Posted April 28, 2009 Report Share Posted April 28, 2009 joncowling, excellent! Many thanks for taking the time to give us this info. My "project" for the weekend!! :-) Ludwig Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JonC Posted April 28, 2009 Report Share Posted April 28, 2009 No worries, good luck with it Are you replacing the filter with a performance model or OEM? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ludwig Posted June 13, 2009 Report Share Posted June 13, 2009 joncowling, I've started to have a go at changing the air filter, thanks to your excellent instructions. I'm having trouble with "3. Disconnect the MAF wire (top left of engine bay) by depressing its fixing clip and pulling it apart ....) I can't see where the "fixing clip" is and how to depress it? There is a 6mm slot facing the front of the car and a square aperture on top of the clip. Can you or the others give me a clue please? Many thanks, Ludwig Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JonC Posted June 14, 2009 Report Share Posted June 14, 2009 joncowling, I've started to have a go at changing the air filter, thanks to your excellent instructions.I'm having trouble with "3. Disconnect the MAF wire (top left of engine bay) by depressing its fixing clip and pulling it apart ....) I can't see where the "fixing clip" is and how to depress it? There is a 6mm slot facing the front of the car and a square aperture on top of the clip. Can you or the others give me a clue please? Many thanks, Ludwig It is fiddly, but I've just been out to the car to remind myself. With a small flathead screwdriver, place the screwdriver head in the 6mm slot on top of the MAF sensor connector, but with the screwdriver away from you so as the handle of the screwdriver leaning towards the windscreen. Gently push the handle down as if towards the windscreen a very small amount (you should hear a little clicking noise) and the leverage action will slide the connector from it's position. Hope all that makes sense. Let me know if it doesn't work and I'll try and explain it a bit better! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ludwig Posted June 14, 2009 Report Share Posted June 14, 2009 Jc, many thanks. This makes a lot of sense. Very clear. I'll have a go later. Thanks for getting back to me so quickly. Frustratingly, about a couple of weeks ago I did a "trial run" and got the connector to disconnect easily! I couldn't remember how I did it yesterday ... :-( Thanks again, Ludwig Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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