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POTENTIAL ENGINE FAULT - PLEASE READ.


Smudge
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I just hope nobody has this problem. I tried to find it quickly earlier, but couldnt as i didnt have very long. I found a similar looking piece, but it had clips that seemed to tighten (and looked a bit like the ones you sometimes get round headphone cables for cd players etc).

Anyone else found it?

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  • 2 months later...

As stolen / robbed / borrowed:->

Basically, the fault looks like it was down to a silly yet very worrying problem affecting all our cars. If you stand at teh front of your car and look at the engine itself and at the very front left side right near to the radiator, you'll see the fuel pressure regulator. To the left of this is a small T-junction rubber part which had split totally after 30k This has just started on my 4Mo when we checked mine and thats dome 36k so my advice is to make sure yours aren't the same.

The outcome of it splitting was that the engine isn't getting enough fuel pumping in or air pressure thus letting it run lean. This then affects things like the spark plugs which when checked was in a bad way as well.

I feel I will be checking my plugs every 10k regardless of VW saying 40k as the plugs are cheaper to replace then an engine if things go horribly wrong.

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169144-ok.gif

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  • 2 weeks later...

The photograph of location appears incorrect for some cars I think. On mine the fuel regulator & t-piece are towards the right of the engine (as viewed from the grill/VW badge) in line with the oil filler cap. You need to lift off the plastic surround to see it. The layout around the regulator & t-piece on mine is also slightly different to the photo. I wonder if VW changed the layout on some cars to rectify the splitting problem? Mine is a late 2004 (registered in Dec.2004)

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  • 1 month later...
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  • 6 months later...

Is it worth posting up about the whole "endfloat,crank and thrust bearing" issue, as this has been an engine problem on many an .:R.

Just my thoughts, as there may be peeps out there who go and buy/purchase an .:R without the slightest knowledge of this.

Jimmy 169144-ok.gif

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  • 3 weeks later...

hi jimmy im new to the forum, and about to buy my 2nd r32,could you tell me more about endfloat,crank topic as my first r32 was brought back off of me by wayside milton keynes after them having car for a total of three months and wrecking my engine, it went in to have rear main oil seal + timing chain and who ever did the work cocked up, many thanks scott

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  • 2 months later...

[ QUOTE ]

Read Chris5 post and it explains all, plus there is a picture aswell 169144-ok.gif

If you want to know anything about the endfloat problem feel free to drop me a PM and i will try and help out... 169144-ok.gif

[/ QUOTE ]

Any info you have would be great on any potential problems.

Cheers

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  • 11 months later...

That's not the only place there can be problems with that line.

It runs from the back of the intake manifold past the throttle

body around the side to the fuel pressure regulator and

then on down to the combi valve (emissions stuff) actuators.

It's a semi-rigid line and is plugged into various rubber fittings

connecting it to hard T's and such.

The hose or T's can crack or more commonly the hose is simply pulled

loose from one of the rubber fittings causing both a manifold vacuum

leak, and improper operation of the FPR. This'll almost always throw

some sort of emissions fault causing the CEL to light so most people

don't need to worry about this if they don't see the light.

BTW, during the installation of a supercharger (with radiator clip

off), it's not hard at all to catch one of those vacuum lines

while working on the front of the car. I'd be surprised if

the original problem linked above, didn't have something to do

with the supercharger install. Not to mention that people

often tap in there right next to the T for their boost gauge.

ian

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  • bison unpinned this topic

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