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Soon be winter....


patently
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As you might imagine, we change wheels a lot in the paddock.  We are quite unbelievably paranoid about setting the torque of the wheel nuts.

When I did a lot of track days I would check mine carefully before I went out and also after the lunch break.

 

One day I was in a session that finished earlier than my buddies before lunch so I used the spare time to torque them before I ate. BIG mistake.

 

All was fine until I got home and wanted to put my road wheels back on. I couldn't undo them! Although I'd torqued them correctly I'd done them when the wheels/hubs/studs etc were hot. I took it to a local garage and they got four off with the air gun but with the hammer action working overtime. One wouldn't come off. The spot welded a bar onto the bolt head to get some massive leverage and still it wouldn't shift. They ended up drilling it out and using up a pack of drill bits.

 

Lesson learnt!

 

If we're talking of torquing, will this get into the debate about greased threads/surfaces? hehehe

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You will need:

Trolley jack

Trolley pad adaptor (hockey puck looking thing that protects your rectangular BMW jack points)

Torque wrench (I use 120nm for all cars, 130nm for X5)

Depending if your wheels have been off the car yet or not, the hubs corrode. X5 was terrible for this, and it was a job to get the wheels off. Would have to loosen bolts and then drop off jack!!!

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You will need:

Trolley jack

Trolley pad adaptor (hockey puck looking thing that protects your rectangular BMW jack points)

Torque wrench (I use 120nm for all cars, 130nm for X5)

Depending if your wheels have been off the car yet or not, the hubs corrode. X5 was terrible for this, and it was a job to get the wheels off. Would have to loosen bolts and then drop off jack!!!

 

Or stop off pretty well anywhere in the UK at any of the mechanically-minded TSN'rs!

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So you're not using BMWs swap and store service?

 

No because I'm not paying the outrageous price they charge for the alloys.

 

I'm buying a set of Borbet wheels with the tyres fitted.  I did consider buying a used set from eBay but I'd rather not take the risk of buying wheels that might be damaged and not immediately identifiable as being so.

 

These wheels are a BMW style and to the naked eye I doubt anyone would even notice much difference.  I've already spoken to my insurers about putting different wheels on to the OEM's and they said they had no problems with it on the basis winter tyres would make be classed as being potentially safer anyway (I was quite pleased to hear that, and surprised too).

 

Just to put that into context too:

 

17" OEM alloys from dealer with Dunlop Winter 3D RF tyres - £2,200.  They'd do them for £1,750.

17" Borbet alloys with the same tyres - £940.00

17" Borbet alloys with the Goodyear tyres - £899

My reason for choosing the Goodyears above the Dunlop brand isn't price related though.  It is because if you read the reviews of the two tyres the Dunlop's don't come out well.  They have a very poor noise and economy rating as well as poor snow and rain performance.  The Goodyear brand outperforms them signficantly in every area on every review I had read.  Hence the choice.+++

Edited by NewNiceMrMe
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Has hell frozen over?!  :P

 

(Oh, and please use a proper jack, not the emergency scissor jack from the boot. You can pick one up when you get the torque wrench)

(Don't forget the 19mm deep socket to go on the wrench, either...)

 

And the extension bar to go between the torque wrench and the 19mm socket.

 

Put mine on Monday, had some free time so it made sense

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I just use a deep socket, gives enough clearance.

 

Not required for some cars - fine without on the 205 and I'm sure the same is true on the Caterham - but helpful and saves touching the face of the alloy / scraping your knuckles on cars like the S4 where the bolts are recessed

 

Surely on the Porsche (11" rears?) you'd need an extender?

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Machine Mart £25 will get you a torque wrench, with extension bars and converting heads for 5/8 and 1/4 drives.

Another £15 will get a deep set of sockets 10-22mm. If you have a socket set, check the drive most are 1/2 inch, so you need a 1/2 inch torque wrench.

Back in the old days torque was set on a socket or spanner via where on the handle you tightened. Low roque would have you have up near the head, the further down the handle (and extension handle) the more torque is used to tighten.

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I have one of those big '+' wrench tools, as the things that the cars come with these days is usually soft alloy that can't take a non-moving bolt, coupled with the weight of small child on the other end let alone a fully grown man trying to undo the bolts.

 

Oh, as above - make sure the car is supported properly - not the similarly soft ally jack that comes with it.

 

 

I want some snow, I need to know how such a big old tank like mine handles in such weather.  +++

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